So I wrap everything up tonight with the install of my y pipe oil cooler bullet proof egr cooler updated turbo drain pipe and something isn't right... I started it up it started fine but I noticed the turbo wasn't making any noise didn't raise a concern cause I was trying to fill the coolant so after I fill the coolant I take her for a spin turbo still not making much sound then I floor it and nothing no power at all then I hear the turbo its very faint and mind you I have an 03 with a straight pipe so I continue to floor it and I could finally hear the turbo and it didn't sound good it was super high pitched almost nails on a chalk board high

I have no clue what it is or what to even check it didn't have this problem before the install could I have not plugged something in or messed a wire up? The wire that is on the last stud of the intake manifold drivers side did break and I put it together could that be the issue? I need to fix this before thurs for a camping trip and I'm so stressed and advice will help thank u all

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also im not blowing any black smoke. and one weird thing is even though my ac is off all my ac lines are cold and building up a ton of condensation. could the turbo not be getting oil? could it by my vgt solenoid?

 

My guess is you probably left something unplugged...

Check the MAP hose going to the intake manifold, is it connected? The VGT is plugged in right?

 

I forgot to plug in my MAF sensor when I did my EGR delete, it let me know right away.

Dbl check all of your electric all connections and you should find your issue.

 

Ok I'm gonna check all that when I get home I pray it's something simple I just can't understand how something could of happened to the turbo just from removing it. Also I forgot to add last night that the turbo wasn't "cycling" I'm not sure if they are supposed to but it just sound like the turbo was oturned off

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Well I checked everything found the passenger side lower intercooler boot was on but not all the way so I readjust it start it up and it still sounds the same then after about 15 seconds it starts revving and dropping in rpm rapidly so I turn it off asap check everything and oil was a half gallon low prob from the new oil cooler so I top it off fire it up and after 5 sec this time it starts doing the rev thing again I shut it off immediately fearing my turbo might bite the dust. I scan my comp and find a P132b code and a icp code that I forgot after that I just had it towed to the dealer. Hopefully lightning will strike it causing it to go up in flames so then I can make an insurance claim and get a new truck...

 

Sometimes when doing a oil cooler RR, dirt/debris can be dislodged in the HPOP reseviour and gets sucked up thru the HPOP and sends the dirt/debris into the IPR, causing damage/blockage to the screen.


With the '03 trucks, when the batteries are disconnected for a prolong amount of time, you will need to do a VGT relearn procedure.

 

What is this vgt relearn procedure? Also nothing went in the hpop hole I had it plugged

 

When cleaning out the oil in the HPOP reseviour, and a damaged HPOP screen, dirt/debris can slip by the damaged HPOP screen and into the HPOP. When starting the motor, this dirt/debris gets pushed into the IPR screen and either causes rough running motor or no start, depending if the IPR gets damaged or blocked.



Here is the VGT relearn procedure.

KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:

15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the
P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission
must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was
re-flashed.

 

The turbo will learn itself as you drive, no big deal.

I bet the IPR is clogged or needs replacement, very common after doing anything with the high pressure oil system it seems. Could just be the ICP sensor too I guess. Hard to say without some numbers...

ICP desired...
ICP actual...
IPR % duty cycle...

 

So u guys think it would of been fine to let the truck idle with it rapidly revving and dropping like that? Also I just replaced the icp and ipr screen less than 6mo ago. I was thinking is that ground on the last rear stud on the intake manifold (drivers side) is that ground for the icp? That wire was split in half then I had to reconnect it with wire connectors but I'm not sure if the job turned out ok due to the tight area and scrappy connectors I had

 

Not saying it's ok, but if it's running it will help diagnosing. What I am saying is that the turbo isn't why it's revving up and down.

The turbo is just an external bolted on piece, it really doesn't control anything. You add fuel and the computer tells the turbo to do something to burn that fuel, that's it.

I've heard of guys doing studs and forgetting to attach that ground in the back, can't remember what it's for. I think it's just a generic ground. That would certainly help to have it grounded though.