modifications arent an issues so i figgure id go with the mbrp 4" tubo back

 

When I was swapping out my transmission, it looked to me that once that cross member is out of the way (and transmission supported obviously), it looks like r&r'ing the exhaust would be a breeze. I had a hell of a time getting my 3.5 up pipe in because it had to be done in two pieces. Why? Because the lower half went horizontal over the trans cross member. My up pipe all but fell out of the truck when I was doing my EGR delete had the crossmember not been there.

If I decide to redo my exhaust (yes it's pretty ugly) I plan to try that route.

 

well if it comes with a 3.5" downpie than thats fine easyer to install. when i do the egr delete ive been told to replace the oil cooler can i add an aftermarker remote cooler or do i need to replace the existing oil cooler if so they arent cheep

 

The OEM ford oil cooler rebuild is $250... the bulletproof aftermarket setup is closer to $2k. Your call, either way works fine. The bulletproof unit is really nice. I'm sticking with the OEM setup myself.

Karl... you mean downpipe? I'm confused? Every aftermarket exhaust setup is a two piece downpipe to avoid having to remove the trans x-member, that's the point? I start by putting the piece that attaches to the turbo up there and LOOSELY clamping it in place. Then attach the next piece to it...

 

can i leave the factory oil cooler in and do a remote aftermarket cooler? or is it smart to just replace the factory unit

 

Down-pipe, up-pipe, side-pipe, you know, the one that goes form the blowie thingy on top of the motor to the import guy's window on the right side of the truck. WHHHEEEWWWW!!! Time to step back from the twinkies, I'm feeling a little dizzy. But seriously, I've done so much crap to my truck, I can't keep any of it straight anymore.

No and it depends. Bullet Proof and IPR's remote coolers are mucho expensivo and both remove the oil cooler in the valley (beneath the intake). If your EOT and ECT are more than 15* apart cruising flat and level at 65~70, you won an oil cooler swap! Guess what I'm doing Labor Day weekend???

 

No matter what you do, replace the OEM cooler, or add the aftermarket units, the one on the truck needs to come off.

Karl, you're killing me here

 

how am i supposed to check it when ford never put guages on with numbers just a hot can cold

 

Well it's not just Ford, they all do that. Those aren't even gauges, they're more like glorified dummy lights.

You can check it like everyone else and buy gauges or a monitor. You can also monitor it with an SCT and a labtop, or buy some good software like Autoenginuity with enhanced ford bundle.

 

im doing the sct aventually it has the edge evolution already for gugaes as far as egts, boost and rpm goes but thats all im really after for guages on the pillar.