Truck blows black smoke and has whistle noise
#1
Truck blows black smoke and has whistle noise
I just bought my truck a few weeks ago, and just notice its blowing black smoke when I step on it to pass, it also smokes when I free rev it. I disconnected the egr valve and it still smokes. But i'm getting a low pitch wine almost sounds like a powersteeering pump but its coming from the middle of the cab where the turbo is located.
#2
I just bought my truck a few weeks ago, and just notice its blowing black smoke when I step on it to pass, it also smokes when I free rev it. I disconnected the egr valve and it still smokes. But i'm getting a low pitch wine almost sounds like a powersteeering pump but its coming from the middle of the cab where the turbo is located.
To answer some of your questions. The black smoke could be from a programmer installed!? Tough to say. Does the truck feel quick? A stock truck wont smoke at all more or less. They will smoke a bit if the turbo is sticking. Does the boost gauge show the turbo working like normal? Also, unplugging the EGR valve doesn't do much, but will probably throw a check engine light. The exhaust gases can still blow it open. It may not hurt to pull it out and clean it though. Use carb cleaner. Remove the o-rings first.
That low pitch whine, does it sound like a tea kettle whistle that you get when you get on the skinny pedal?
Lose the K&N filter, put a stocker on, or something better like an AFE with a dry filter setup.
#3
I'm going to start a new thread for you bud, so it will get more attention.
To answer some of your questions. The black smoke could be from a programmer installed!? Tough to say. Does the truck feel quick? A stock truck wont smoke at all more or less. They will smoke a bit if the turbo is sticking. Does the boost gauge show the turbo working like normal? Also, unplugging the EGR valve doesn't do much, but will probably throw a check engine light. The exhaust gases can still blow it open. It may not hurt to pull it out and clean it though. Use carb cleaner. Remove the o-rings first.
That low pitch whine, does it sound like a tea kettle whistle that you get when you get on the skinny pedal?
Lose the K&N filter, put a stocker on, or something better like an AFE with a dry filter setup.
To answer some of your questions. The black smoke could be from a programmer installed!? Tough to say. Does the truck feel quick? A stock truck wont smoke at all more or less. They will smoke a bit if the turbo is sticking. Does the boost gauge show the turbo working like normal? Also, unplugging the EGR valve doesn't do much, but will probably throw a check engine light. The exhaust gases can still blow it open. It may not hurt to pull it out and clean it though. Use carb cleaner. Remove the o-rings first.
That low pitch whine, does it sound like a tea kettle whistle that you get when you get on the skinny pedal?
Lose the K&N filter, put a stocker on, or something better like an AFE with a dry filter setup.
#4
#5
It drives same like the others trucks that I had previously test drove. It seems to be building boost . At the get go the whine sounds like if you ran a power-steering pump with low fluid. It doesn't sounds like a tea kettle more like a humming noise and goes away at a certain rpm.
Can we get some info about the truck? Like how many miles are on it? Any recent work done to it? Did you have an Oasis pulled on it?
It seems to be building boost? Well what is the gauge on the dash showing? Stock trucks (06 anyways) usually run about 22-24psi, maybe a little more if pulling a load. Is it doing that?
What RPM is the noise going away at? Does it come back?
I've heard of the HPOP's making this noise when the gear is going to crap on it. Is the truck ever hard to start? Do you have access to a good scanner so we can monitor a few things?
#6
The truck currently has about 80,000 miles on it, its hasn't have any major service up to my knowledge but the ficm and some other module was replace under recall. Although the truck takes about 10 - 15 seconds before it fires up when cold once its warm it takes about 3 - 5 secs. The boost shows around 20 - 21 psi. The wine starts around 1000 rpm and goes away about 1100 - 1200 rpm right about when the turbo kicks in, you can hear a really faint whine in 1 - 2nd gear while driving. I'm planning on removing my egr valve to clean it to rule out the black grayish smoke. I can possibly take it to the shop where I normally have my truck service and have them hook up their diagnostic tool. Also I notice the glowplug light only stays on for about 5 - 6 secs then turns off is that normal ? on my previous truck the wait to start light will stay lit for almost a minute.
#7
The truck currently has about 80,000 miles on it, its hasn't have any major service up to my knowledge but the ficm and some other module was replace under recall. Although the truck takes about 10 - 15 seconds before it fires up when cold once its warm it takes about 3 - 5 secs. The boost shows around 20 - 21 psi. The wine starts around 1000 rpm and goes away about 1100 - 1200 rpm right about when the turbo kicks in, you can hear a really faint whine in 1 - 2nd gear while driving. I'm planning on removing my egr valve to clean it to rule out the black grayish smoke. I can possibly take it to the shop where I normally have my truck service and have them hook up their diagnostic tool. Also I notice the glowplug light only stays on for about 5 - 6 secs then turns off is that normal ? on my previous truck the wait to start light will stay lit for almost a minute.
10-15 seconds is way too long for that to be starting. Most cold start issues come from either the batteries being weak, or the FICM being weak. Typically weak batteries will kill the FICM. I would highly suggest having the batteries load tested somewhere. If one is bad, replace BOTH. Then test your FICM. You can find the test procedure at the top of the 6.0 page in the sticky section. It's easy to do, just need an extra set of hands to turn the key while you hold the multi-meter.
The "wait to start" light is completely independent of the glow plugs actually staying on. It's just saying "hey, it's cool to turn the key now." but the glow plugs will stay on for a little while longer. Depending on oil temperature, and elevation. They can stay on for up to 2 full minutes. You can tell when they go out if you have your headlights pointing at something, you'll see them "light up" brighter when the glow plugs go out. In this heat, 5-6 seconds is normal for a cold motor. In the winter it will stay on longer. 20-21 is somewhat normal. Though the turbo may be sticking a touch. 80 miles in 5 years isn't a TON of driving, and if it was idled a lot and babied, it definitely will be sticking, thus your black smoke me thinks. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, this is a pretty easy project for a saturday afternoon, reconditioning the turbo: DTS Articles - Turbocharger Reconditioning
The whine could be a number of things... really hard to say. Can you duplicate it in the driveway and try to get someone to listen for it? Maybe try and pinpoint where it's coming from?
EGR valve cleaning is a good idea. You may want to clean the EPB sensor and tube now too at that mileage, my guess is it's never been done. Looking at the drivers side of the motor, find the exhaust manifold. Near the front cylinder you'll see a bung with a SS tube coming out of it, follow that tube up and you'll see a sensor plugged into it, that's the EBP (exhaust back pressure sensor), this typically feeds info to the PCM to tell the turbo how to function. They clog up with soot and crap and start reading funny. Take the tube and the sensor out and clean them well. Probably need some pipe cleaners for the EPB.
Oh, and by your old truck do you mean the 02 Dodge you sold? Two different heating systems there, the cummins used an intake air grid heater block, it just pre-heats the air coming into the cylinders to get the fuel to burn, where the 6.0 uses actual glow plugs in the cylinders. At least I believe that's how the cummins is...
Last edited by Mdub707; 07-03-2012 at 02:02 PM.
#8
The only way to know what service has been done as far as warranty work goes is to have an Oasis pulled. Any Ford dealer should be able to do this for you. Not sure what module would have been replaced under recall... hmmm.
10-15 seconds is way too long for that to be starting. Most cold start issues come from either the batteries being weak, or the FICM being weak. Typically weak batteries will kill the FICM. I would highly suggest having the batteries load tested somewhere. If one is bad, replace BOTH. Then test your FICM. You can find the test procedure at the top of the 6.0 page in the sticky section. It's easy to do, just need an extra set of hands to turn the key while you hold the multi-meter.
The "wait to start" light is completely independent of the glow plugs actually staying on. It's just saying "hey, it's cool to turn the key now." but the glow plugs will stay on for a little while longer. Depending on oil temperature, and elevation. They can stay on for up to 2 full minutes. You can tell when they go out if you have your headlights pointing at something, you'll see them "light up" brighter when the glow plugs go out. In this heat, 5-6 seconds is normal for a cold motor. In the winter it will stay on longer. 20-21 is somewhat normal. Though the turbo may be sticking a touch. 80 miles in 5 years isn't a TON of driving, and if it was idled a lot and babied, it definitely will be sticking, thus your black smoke me thinks. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, this is a pretty easy project for a saturday afternoon, reconditioning the turbo: DTS Articles - Turbocharger Reconditioning
The whine could be a number of things... really hard to say. Can you duplicate it in the driveway and try to get someone to listen for it? Maybe try and pinpoint where it's coming from?
EGR valve cleaning is a good idea. You may want to clean the EPB sensor and tube now too at that mileage, my guess is it's never been done. Looking at the drivers side of the motor, find the exhaust manifold. Near the front cylinder you'll see a bung with a SS tube coming out of it, follow that tube up and you'll see a sensor plugged into it, that's the EBP (exhaust back pressure sensor), this typically feeds info to the PCM to tell the turbo how to function. They clog up with soot and crap and start reading funny. Take the tube and the sensor out and clean them well. Probably need some pipe cleaners for the EPB.
Oh, and by your old truck do you mean the 02 Dodge you sold? Two different heating systems there, the cummins used an intake air grid heater block, it just pre-heats the air coming into the cylinders to get the fuel to burn, where the 6.0 uses actual glow plugs in the cylinders. At least I believe that's how the cummins is...
10-15 seconds is way too long for that to be starting. Most cold start issues come from either the batteries being weak, or the FICM being weak. Typically weak batteries will kill the FICM. I would highly suggest having the batteries load tested somewhere. If one is bad, replace BOTH. Then test your FICM. You can find the test procedure at the top of the 6.0 page in the sticky section. It's easy to do, just need an extra set of hands to turn the key while you hold the multi-meter.
The "wait to start" light is completely independent of the glow plugs actually staying on. It's just saying "hey, it's cool to turn the key now." but the glow plugs will stay on for a little while longer. Depending on oil temperature, and elevation. They can stay on for up to 2 full minutes. You can tell when they go out if you have your headlights pointing at something, you'll see them "light up" brighter when the glow plugs go out. In this heat, 5-6 seconds is normal for a cold motor. In the winter it will stay on longer. 20-21 is somewhat normal. Though the turbo may be sticking a touch. 80 miles in 5 years isn't a TON of driving, and if it was idled a lot and babied, it definitely will be sticking, thus your black smoke me thinks. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, this is a pretty easy project for a saturday afternoon, reconditioning the turbo: DTS Articles - Turbocharger Reconditioning
The whine could be a number of things... really hard to say. Can you duplicate it in the driveway and try to get someone to listen for it? Maybe try and pinpoint where it's coming from?
EGR valve cleaning is a good idea. You may want to clean the EPB sensor and tube now too at that mileage, my guess is it's never been done. Looking at the drivers side of the motor, find the exhaust manifold. Near the front cylinder you'll see a bung with a SS tube coming out of it, follow that tube up and you'll see a sensor plugged into it, that's the EBP (exhaust back pressure sensor), this typically feeds info to the PCM to tell the turbo how to function. They clog up with soot and crap and start reading funny. Take the tube and the sensor out and clean them well. Probably need some pipe cleaners for the EPB.
Oh, and by your old truck do you mean the 02 Dodge you sold? Two different heating systems there, the cummins used an intake air grid heater block, it just pre-heats the air coming into the cylinders to get the fuel to burn, where the 6.0 uses actual glow plugs in the cylinders. At least I believe that's how the cummins is...
Last edited by doombugie; 07-03-2012 at 02:59 PM.
#9
They probably just flashed all of those modules, I doubt they replaced them.
HPOP isn't exactly easy to measure with a standard gauge, a scanner is the easiest way, the next is a digital gauge tapped into the ICP sensor. It's 4000psi under WOT remember...
Test the FICM if the batteries are good. It's seriously 90-95% of all 6.0 hard start issues (cold start issues).
HPOP isn't exactly easy to measure with a standard gauge, a scanner is the easiest way, the next is a digital gauge tapped into the ICP sensor. It's 4000psi under WOT remember...
Test the FICM if the batteries are good. It's seriously 90-95% of all 6.0 hard start issues (cold start issues).
#10
Got around to get under the hood of the truck tested the FICM with key on its reading 48.5 volts, while cranking the engine over it reads 47.8 volts. I had a buddy step on the gas pedal while I tried to find where the whining noise is coming it seems like its coming from the turbo I could hear it through the intake while he's revving the engine up. Should I have the FICM Re-flash again since the truck had a dead battery could it have messed up the program ?