History:
2005 F250 6.0 powerstroke,154,000 miles
No major problems until now; however, has always blown white/blue smoke, more at times. While under warranty, dealer said and made computer adjustments, but they never really fixed it. Oil, oil filter and fuel filter changed at end of October '11. Less than 500 miles since then.
Current issue(s):
1.White/blue smoke heavy at times Problem came on slowly in the beginning
2.Truck started bucking when cold as I accelerated around MPH, and then disappeared as truck warmed.
3.While accelerating or maintaining speed, when I let off the accelerator fast, the engine will die.
4.It became harder and harder to start to where it now does not start without the help of starting fluid.
5.Idles at 750, when brought to 1250/1500 engine races, stalls, and dies unless I let off accelerator, but not always lots of smoke. Smooth idle at 750, fluctuates once in a while.
Trouble Codes Received:
P0404, P0528, P0562, P0672, P0683, P1335, P1378, P2290, P2614, P2617, B1352, U1900
Work done:
Two new batteries installed, EGR valve taken out, completely filled with dry hard black crud and plugged. Cleaned and reinstalled.
FICM tested, 48.8v KO; 48.8v-48.6v running. also maintained same reading when RPM brought to the point of racing.
I have no idea what to do next I am just a weekend mechanic. I no longer have a scanner at my disposal. What would you suggest that I do next? Please help

 

What did you read trouble codes with?

Trouble Codes Received:

P0404 EGR related code...
P0528 Fan speed sensor circuit
P0562 system low voltage (I've never seen this code come up before)
P0672 #2 glow plug circuit
P0683 glow plug control module
P1335 another EGR code
P1378 FICM voltage low
P2290 ICP too low
P2614 cam position sensor
P2617 crank position sensor
B1352 ignition key in circuit failure
U1900 - this one is a little more tricky, it's a generic fault for a communication error. It could be whatever you're using to read codes isn't capable of picking up the exact code, thus why I asked what you're using. Hard to know specifically what this is, I think I would definitely try and get a better scanner/reader on it to get this first, it may be the solution to all o fyour issues.

Everything you have is either EGR related, or low voltage issues. The cam and crank sensor issues, I'd ignore, those are typically falsely thrown when cranking way too much and it doesn't start. They rarely go bad, and they even more rarely go bad together. Glow plug circuit can be tested pretty easily, and though it may not be helping your starting issues, likely the low voltage is what is triggering all of this, same with ICP and FICM codes, low voltage will cause them all to do funny things.

I'd start by checking all of your grounds and start checking over all of the wiring looking for chaffing or breaks/cracks etc, or even a broken ground.

 

Since posting I have had some improvement; I went to the local shop and had him hook up his new snap-on Solest Pro scanner ( which he says does everything but wipe your ***) before bringing it to him I had left the key on and lights on and battery disconnected which I was told would drain the capacitors and clear the codes. He showed no trouble codes what he did find was the alternator was putting out 13.2-12.9 and the only other thing it showed was 6 misfires left in memory when testing the injectors.
I put a new alternator in and it has been starting good all day but I never gave the GP time to cool down. What is happening now is when I let off the accelerator and turn either R or L it will cut out completely but only sometimes. I think this is the BIG KEY; while driving I can get it up to 65 mph with gradual acceleration but while driving I step on it and when I hit 60 MPH it seems to cut out, lose power you feel nothing (it is very hard to explain) if I keep the accelerator pressed it will die, and if I let off it will drop to 250 RPMs and slowly regain power. When I jump on it from a dead stop it will do the same thing at 40 MPH.......
What do you think now????
Thanks for all your help!

 

sounds like a high presure oil leak, could be a bad screen on ipr valve causing the leak, a bad ICp sensor can cause stalling too, normally at idle or close to idle. What are you sowing for boost? 500 miles since October isn't good for a 6.0, they need to be driven to keep the turbo clean and loose.

 

I have no idea of what sowing for boost means. and it was running so bad that I couldn't drive it. How do I check your suggestions?

 

sorry, showing for boost. for checking for high presure leak you need to do an air test, for the IPR and ICP you need to have it scanned, you can pull the ipr valve and and check the screen.

 

Or hook it up to your buddy's scanner and monitor ICP actual vs ICP desired, and monitor IPR % duty cycle as well.

I'm still saying electrical, though, you may have more than one issue at once here. You telling us that turning left or right makes it cut out really makes me think there is loose wiring somewhere.

 

OK I will do that and let you know thanks Its not every turn and it seems to be timed with the let off of accelerator. Thanks again