2005 6.0 hard start after injector change
#1
2005 6.0 hard start after injector change
hey guys i have a 2005 f350 6.0 excursion, that i put synister diesel basic solutions kit along with aftermarket injectors.got it all done and i was having a hard time starting it, but after i ran it hard for a bit it cleared out the air and started easy for the last few weeks.
the problem is my uncle borrowed it and drove to seattle and now he is saying that its having a hard time starting again. like having to crank for 8-10 seconds what do you guys think it could be? Orings or something anything to check before tearing the valve covers off again?
the problem is my uncle borrowed it and drove to seattle and now he is saying that its having a hard time starting again. like having to crank for 8-10 seconds what do you guys think it could be? Orings or something anything to check before tearing the valve covers off again?
#2
What "aftermarket injectors" were used? What size are they? (looking for CC size here, I know how you cummins guys like to give them in "HP" ratings...haha)
I'm assuming since you went "aftermarket" you went larger? How are you controlling the tuning of them? What other mods are on this and what triggered all the upgrades? Forced upgrades, or prevetative?
Could very well be o-rings, could be a dying HPOP, could be a few things. Let's start with the basics, just answer the questions I have here and we'll go from there.
Also, do you have access to a scanner of some sort to monitor some things? Has anyone tried reading codes (check engine light doesn't need to be on for codes...)
I'm assuming since you went "aftermarket" you went larger? How are you controlling the tuning of them? What other mods are on this and what triggered all the upgrades? Forced upgrades, or prevetative?
Could very well be o-rings, could be a dying HPOP, could be a few things. Let's start with the basics, just answer the questions I have here and we'll go from there.
Also, do you have access to a scanner of some sort to monitor some things? Has anyone tried reading codes (check engine light doesn't need to be on for codes...)
#3
#4
So you had two bad injectors, but replaced 8? Never heard of custom spools. Maybe they just "replace" the spools? Most places don't even do that. I wonder who they use for injectors...
Looking on their site they have Stock size injectors from the following people:
Industrial Injection
Ford
D-tech
Pensacola.
Pensacola probably has one of the worst names in rebuilt 6.0 injectors I've ever seen. I'm fairly certain I've never seen a single good thing about them.
D-tech, never heard of them once, but I see on MKM's site they say they put in new spool valves and new plungers too. Hmmm...
Who actually swapped the injectors?
Kind of odd that
Looking on their site they have Stock size injectors from the following people:
Industrial Injection
Ford
D-tech
Pensacola.
Pensacola probably has one of the worst names in rebuilt 6.0 injectors I've ever seen. I'm fairly certain I've never seen a single good thing about them.
D-tech, never heard of them once, but I see on MKM's site they say they put in new spool valves and new plungers too. Hmmm...
Who actually swapped the injectors?
Kind of odd that
#6
I must have hit "reply" before I finished my last thought in the previous post there hahaha.
Have you ever tried figuring out the root cause of why they're going bad? Do you monitor fuel pressure? What oil do you use and how often do you change it? What about oil filters? They shouldn't just be dropping like this.
I would also have the batteries load tested (if one is bad, replace both) and test the FICM, you can find the test procedure at the top of the 6.0 page, it's easy.
Next, what do we do about what's going on now? So it seemed to bleed the air out of the oil system and ran ok for a while, now back to crap again? I take it you don't have the truck in your possession right now?
It could be a few things... could be a small high pressure oil leak, or could be an injector crapping out!? They're probably not loose, otherwise it would start and run like crap all the time, not just at start up. When he's trying to start it, do the problems only happen when the motor is warm? How does it start when it sits overnight?
Have you ever tried figuring out the root cause of why they're going bad? Do you monitor fuel pressure? What oil do you use and how often do you change it? What about oil filters? They shouldn't just be dropping like this.
I would also have the batteries load tested (if one is bad, replace both) and test the FICM, you can find the test procedure at the top of the 6.0 page, it's easy.
Next, what do we do about what's going on now? So it seemed to bleed the air out of the oil system and ran ok for a while, now back to crap again? I take it you don't have the truck in your possession right now?
It could be a few things... could be a small high pressure oil leak, or could be an injector crapping out!? They're probably not loose, otherwise it would start and run like crap all the time, not just at start up. When he's trying to start it, do the problems only happen when the motor is warm? How does it start when it sits overnight?
#9
so ya i talked to him and he said that mostly it when it has sat over night and the motor is stone cold. then it cranks for awhile before firing... after the glow plugs go out. then he said that sometimes it will do it even when warm but not very often,
could i have a leak in the high pressure oil manifold (bad oring) so its bleeding the oil out once i shut it down? heard of this before
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
he is coming home tomorrow so i can do the FICM test, but he said that it runs good as soon as it starts so its got me a little worried
could i have a leak in the high pressure oil manifold (bad oring) so its bleeding the oil out once i shut it down? heard of this before
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
he is coming home tomorrow so i can do the FICM test, but he said that it runs good as soon as it starts so its got me a little worried
Last edited by starrysky111; 07-03-2012 at 12:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
Typically a high pressure oil leak only shows issues when it's warm. When it's cold the oil is thick so it builds pressure easy, as it heats up and thins out it can leak out easier and cause starting issues. Doesn't sound like your problem to me.
The glow plugs stay on for a while after the light goes out too. Could be a weak battery/FICM issue... The easiest way for someone to check this out is park in front of a garage or something where you can see the headlights on. Turn the headlights on when you start it. You'll know when the glowplugs go out because the lights will get brighter (they are independent of the "wait to start" light on the dash), if it starts running smoother when the lights get brighter (glow plugs aren't drawing a ton of power anymore) it might be an issue with the batteries. Long shot, but easy to check.
Other than that... could just be the injectors themselves. A couple bottles of Rev-X would certainly tell you if they're part of the issue or not.
When he's cranking it and it's not starting, is it smoking at all?
The glow plugs stay on for a while after the light goes out too. Could be a weak battery/FICM issue... The easiest way for someone to check this out is park in front of a garage or something where you can see the headlights on. Turn the headlights on when you start it. You'll know when the glowplugs go out because the lights will get brighter (they are independent of the "wait to start" light on the dash), if it starts running smoother when the lights get brighter (glow plugs aren't drawing a ton of power anymore) it might be an issue with the batteries. Long shot, but easy to check.
Other than that... could just be the injectors themselves. A couple bottles of Rev-X would certainly tell you if they're part of the issue or not.
When he's cranking it and it's not starting, is it smoking at all?