Mods
#1
#2
I am assuming you have bulkier head gaskets and head studs right? IF not, you will need that before you even think about a turbo upgrade, also after the studs, get 4" straight pipe and an intake. Also a gauge cluster to keep better track of egt's and stuff like that when you are driving. EGR Delete kit too
#3
I would say 175s with the powermax. I dont think the powermax would clear the full 190s but it would still be a good setup if you plan to do a bigger turbo later on. The turbo should be around 1200 and sct around 400. The sticks would vary depending if you bought rebuilt ones or new ones but anywhere from 1600 to 3500 would be a good estimate on those. Have you done head studs?
#4
Here's a few questions we need answered first.
What are your power goals?
What is the truck used for?
Do you ever tow with it? Do you plan to tow? How heavy?
What's your budget?
What current mods are done to the truck now?
You may need a lot of things, you may not need anything, hard to know without knowing what you have done now.
What are your power goals?
What is the truck used for?
Do you ever tow with it? Do you plan to tow? How heavy?
What's your budget?
What current mods are done to the truck now?
You may need a lot of things, you may not need anything, hard to know without knowing what you have done now.
#5
sorry im still new here i always forgot to put everything on before i ask questions. but all i have done so far(that know of since i bought to truck the way it sits now) is a banks ram air intake, and 4 in turbo back straight pipe, i plan on doing the head studs, egr delete, and oil cooler the same time i do all the upgrades. i am looking for anywhere between 500 to 600 hp, the truck is my daily driver and i use it to pull my mud truck every other weekend (trailer and all im looking at around 10-11 thousand pounds) and my budget is the cheapest i can get all of this done because im just gonna save until i have it all. im only 18 so my only bills are my truck payment and to fill the truck up. i will be installing everything with the help of my dads mechanic. thanks again everyone.
#6
Ok so you have some time at least to do some research and a lot of reading before diving in. 600 is getting to the point where it's going to get real expensive, especially if you have to tow a lot. 500 is easy and the trans should hold that fine. 600 you're almost going to need compounds towing that amount, and a decently built trans.
190/100's would get you real close, but your turbo selection is going to be a bit tricky, trying to lay down numbers like that, but still make it easy to drive and tow with. Tuning is going to be big here. Powermax is out of the question, it's simply not going to flow what you need for your power goals. I'm thinking some divided up-pipes feeding a T-4 flange into something like a 64/68 with a smaller housing like a .83 a/r. Could be done on the cheap. MPD makes some nice relatively inexpensive divided up-pipes. An open flowing intake manifold would help huge with this build too, to keep EGT's down, spool-up quick, and be drivable on the street.
You should really actually sit down and plan on what you think is OK to spend on this project, come up with a number and we can come up with a combination that works in that price range. If we get to the power level where a trans is needed, that price goes way up.
190/100's would get you real close, but your turbo selection is going to be a bit tricky, trying to lay down numbers like that, but still make it easy to drive and tow with. Tuning is going to be big here. Powermax is out of the question, it's simply not going to flow what you need for your power goals. I'm thinking some divided up-pipes feeding a T-4 flange into something like a 64/68 with a smaller housing like a .83 a/r. Could be done on the cheap. MPD makes some nice relatively inexpensive divided up-pipes. An open flowing intake manifold would help huge with this build too, to keep EGT's down, spool-up quick, and be drivable on the street.
You should really actually sit down and plan on what you think is OK to spend on this project, come up with a number and we can come up with a combination that works in that price range. If we get to the power level where a trans is needed, that price goes way up.
#7
well all im looking to do is to be able to blow a little smoke and be able to leave the ricers behind in that smoke, so would you have any suggestions on a setup to get me there at the lowest cost possible,i know its not gonna be cheap for anything on these trucks but i wanna keep the price down. and ive seen a 6.0 running twins on a custom setup with the stock 03 turbo and a 12 valve cummins turbo. would it be possible to rig something up to run the stock one on my truck now and hook up a powermax or any better turbo?
#8
Just so you're aware, smoke has become quite an issue in the last couple years in the diesel community. We are trying to cut it back some. Obviously on a modified diesel, some smoke is going to happen, but with good tuning and properly matched parts there is no need to be blowing out an intersection in a black cloud. We really need to start policing ourselves against the excess. If you're on a back road and your buddy is behind you, do whatever you want, but just do it responsibly, ok? Check my sig...
With that said, leaving the ricers behind shouldn't be too hard. I think you should start basic. I have a feeling you'll be pleasantly surprised with the simple addition of a custom tune.
With my truck in sig, and using Innovatives x-street tune, I lined up against my little brothers 2000ish mustang GT, which at the time had some "saleen" motor in it, long tubes, x pipe into some race mufflers, a few other things, some junk tuner, whatever. From a dig, I immediately put about 5-6 lengths on him (his car is auto btw), and we stayed in that position through roughly a 1/4 mile. He didn't pull on me one bit and I really didn't walk any farther away from him, but it still surprised him quite a bit.
Start small, do the preventative stuff, the bulletproofing, add the tuner and go from there.
If you want to stay low on cost, start there first, then if that isn't enough power a good set of 175/75's would be a good starting point for injector without killing your daily drivability, and there are a few good turbo options out now and some in testing to match those sticks perfect. The new MAD turbo's that are in testing now should outperform the powermax and be cheaper. They're basically the back section of a stock 6.0 turbo (so it bolts right up!) and the front section of a duramax turbo. Pretty interesting. I'll see if I can get the guys over here and post some info in the next couple weeks. If not, you can find some info on PSA in the immediate.
As for this "twins" truck you saw... not to call you a liar, but who ever was telling you about this truck in question was probably BS'ing. So far no one has really been able to successfully build a compound turbo setup on a 6.0 using the stock VGT charger. There were some major tuning issues getting the VGT to function properly. These setups have been done on D-max's and cummins though, but if I remember correctly there was some major differences between the way the 6.0 VGT turbo and the d-max turbo VGT were controlled. The D-max was easy to make work, the 6.0 not so much.
A 12V cummins stock turbo probably isn't much better than a stock 6.0 turbo.
You could certainly spec your turbo purchase to provide the high pressure in a compound system later down the road. So it works as a single on your truck now, and if you ever wont to go wild with it, you can still use it as the baby charger and just put a big one on top of it. Something in the 62-66mm range should work. Then later add an S475 or S480 on top of it...
Start with a tuner bud.
With that said, leaving the ricers behind shouldn't be too hard. I think you should start basic. I have a feeling you'll be pleasantly surprised with the simple addition of a custom tune.
With my truck in sig, and using Innovatives x-street tune, I lined up against my little brothers 2000ish mustang GT, which at the time had some "saleen" motor in it, long tubes, x pipe into some race mufflers, a few other things, some junk tuner, whatever. From a dig, I immediately put about 5-6 lengths on him (his car is auto btw), and we stayed in that position through roughly a 1/4 mile. He didn't pull on me one bit and I really didn't walk any farther away from him, but it still surprised him quite a bit.
Start small, do the preventative stuff, the bulletproofing, add the tuner and go from there.
If you want to stay low on cost, start there first, then if that isn't enough power a good set of 175/75's would be a good starting point for injector without killing your daily drivability, and there are a few good turbo options out now and some in testing to match those sticks perfect. The new MAD turbo's that are in testing now should outperform the powermax and be cheaper. They're basically the back section of a stock 6.0 turbo (so it bolts right up!) and the front section of a duramax turbo. Pretty interesting. I'll see if I can get the guys over here and post some info in the next couple weeks. If not, you can find some info on PSA in the immediate.
As for this "twins" truck you saw... not to call you a liar, but who ever was telling you about this truck in question was probably BS'ing. So far no one has really been able to successfully build a compound turbo setup on a 6.0 using the stock VGT charger. There were some major tuning issues getting the VGT to function properly. These setups have been done on D-max's and cummins though, but if I remember correctly there was some major differences between the way the 6.0 VGT turbo and the d-max turbo VGT were controlled. The D-max was easy to make work, the 6.0 not so much.
A 12V cummins stock turbo probably isn't much better than a stock 6.0 turbo.
You could certainly spec your turbo purchase to provide the high pressure in a compound system later down the road. So it works as a single on your truck now, and if you ever wont to go wild with it, you can still use it as the baby charger and just put a big one on top of it. Something in the 62-66mm range should work. Then later add an S475 or S480 on top of it...
Start with a tuner bud.
#10