Last year my 2003 F250 6.0 with 130,000 had to have its engine replaced after a routine visit to the shop and they forgot to plug a fan back in. The engine seized on the highway and resulted in my getting a used 2003 engine with 80,000 to replace it. Its been running fine until about a month ago. I was pulling a horse trailer and after about 180 miles it started to vibrate and felt like it was loosing a bit of power and wasn't getting enough gas, on slight inclines only. After two days at a diesel shop, the mechanic (not the same shop that didn't plug the fan in) called and said it was the computer (ECM). He got a bunch of incorrect error codes. He replaced that for $1600. I was hauling again and it started doing it again but worse. Same situation, it started on the way back from a 240 mile round trip drive on the inclines. We took it back and he found a faulty wire in the harness and fixed that. He has not been able to get it to act up. I was on the same trip again but it started doing it much sooner and so bad we unhooked the trailer thinking it might help on the trip home. It didn't seem to make a difference and the truck shimmied and felt like it was loosing power all the way home, worse on inclines. We took it back and since it was a Saturday it sat until Monday. The mechanic let it run for 4 hours one day (idyl) and drove it without any issues. The next day he said he let it run for 5 hours, hooked up a trailer and drove it up inclines. He said he hooked something up to the truck while driving it that made him suspect the FICM then checked its voltage back at the shop and got a low voltage reading - 27. Before we pay to replace it ($1200) I wanted to ask if anyone else has had a similar problem and found it to be related to something other than the FICM? I've found a few posts on other sites that describe my problem and it wasn't the FICM but they didn't come to post what they eventually found. Thanks

 

My first suggestion is to start looking for people who know how to work on 6.0's.

ECM's typically don't just go bad. I highly doubt that ever needed replacing.

If your FICM is reading 27v, it's bad. It needs to be 48V under three conditions 1)key on engine off 2) cranking 3) running.

I would bet my bottom dollar it's been the FICM all along, thus the injector codes.

I would FIRST test your batteries. How old are they? Get them load tested somewhere. If one is bad, replace BOTH. Then test FICM, cold, under those three conditions. Should be 48V give or take one or two.

You can have your current FICM repaired for a FRACTION of that cost. There is a FICM test procedure at the top of the 6.0 page, in a sticky, and there is also write ups floating around the net on how to fix them yourself, if you can solder small components comfortably. If not, there are numerous people you can send it to to have that service done, all for much less than the quoted $1200. Ford could put one in cheaper than that...

 

One of many FICM repair places. THese guys were in DieselPower mag a couple months ago. FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair. There is another place that will send you the half of the FICM that needs repair and you install it. Cost is $500. Much cheaper then $1200.

 

TMK, welcome to the site, sorry the shop took you for so much $$, alot of good advice on here and will save you a bundle. As mdub said, test batteries and then test FICM, it is bad if it read 27v, the ficm powers the injectors and anything under 46v the injectors do not work very good and it can make the truck feel like it is going to shake apart, could also be a bad injector but lets diagnose the free stuff first. what part of the country are you in? there might be someone on here that knows a good shop around you

 

I'm going to have to look it up again, but if you order that half shell through international (the other option is right from ford for like $450), you can get for under $200 I think. Though, it will likely still have the same fate down the road, but it's a good option for someone in a pinch.

Yes, welcome to the site!

 

Thanks for your help (everyone). We're located in Tucson, AZ if anyone can recommend a good mechanic. The truck is still with the mechanic I initially wrote about but I called today and told him not to do the work. I'll start with the free stuff you mention and work from there. Really upset we may have spent $1600 on an EMC we didn't need. Appreciate all the help.

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Mdub707, the batteries were both replaced 2-3 years ago.

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FYI - just read on another forum that the symptoms I'm describing are common with vacuum leaks. The poster checked his compression values and didn't get a bad reading. He rechecked his connections and discovered a torn rubber connector at the end of a plastic pipe. He replaced that and his truck is running great. I'm going to have a mechanic check it out before we do anything else. Upon questioning our mechanic he said he replaced the PCM, not the ECM as is written on our work order, due to numerous faulty codes unrelated to the injectors.

 

ok I work for a shop that all we pretty much do is 6.0 stuff.

First off did your check engine come on after the fan wasnt hooked up?

Second, did either mechanic do a fuel suction test or pressure test?

Third, What are your temps between the EOT and ECT?

Fourth, What codes did he get out of computer?

 

vaccum lines have nothing to do on the 6.0 engine, there is one presure line that hooks to map sensor and that is it. I still can't figure out how the fan not being hooked up killed the motor???? it shuts off cylinders if it is getting too hot and act like anair pump to coll cylinders...

 

To bad ya weren't a little bit closer. I'd help ya out as much as I could. I'm at Alamogordo, NM. I'm air force at Holloman Air Force Base. I've got an 03 with 130,000 on her right now

 

bulletproofdiesel is right in AZ. They know 6.0's quite well.

I'm with Bob, a few things still don't add up for me here...