Hi all!
I am new to Diesel Bombers. Looks like a pretty good group of people here. with lots of good info.
I have a story to tell and some questions to ask. I might not be the sharpest tool in the shed. But, I can cut through the crap pretty quick!
Let go of my 98 7.3 a few years ago. (OOPS!) And opted for a 03 6.0 King Ranch.
I service her like clockwork. And drive her like crazy. She now has over 210k miles. Best part is that she is 100% paid for!
Now comes the good part.
A couple months ago I decided to give her a new lease on life. So being pretty mechanically inclined, I decided to do it myself.
My plan: Egr delete, new oil cooler, arp head studs/bolts and black onyx 18mm head gaskets, clean and inspect VGT, all new o rings/seals for high pressure oil system, injectors, HPOP/injector pump check, ICP sensor, IPR, oil cooler, tuner, upgrade intake and pipes, new glow plugs. plus a few more smaller intems like after market fuel filtration system.
OK So here's where my plan went wrong and the questions start.
In my over indulgent excitement to get started. I overlooked a couple small steps.
Like buzz testing the injectors while they were still under the hood! As you all know injectors can eat into your fun money pretty quickly. And I would rather spend it on other upgrades. Anyone know of any good shops to send them off for a bench test?
Next, How about any info as to where I can get the HPOP bench tested as well?
And any suggestions for additional things that I SHOULD do while she is torn down. Or might want to consider.
I'll keep you posted on my progress. And pass along anything that might be helpfull to others as I stumble on!

 

I'm not sure about the bench testing but scrap those Black Onyx gaskets and get some directly from Ford, you are gonna blow those Black Onyx gaskets, the LONGEST I have every heard of them holding up was 2 years

 

I agree with the HGs, stock are better, the black OX are too thin and don't offer a good enough seal, sell them on ebay and get some of your money back. If you get a set from Ford you will get the new standpipe for for the oil rail too, cost is $137 per side from TOUSLEY FORD, they seem to have the best prices, it comes with stock bolts but tell them you don't want the bolts and it saves on shipping. When I do the same to my tuck I will be replacing the HPOP with a billet one from DIESEL SITE, they make a billet one that eliminates the problems with the stock ones, they can fail without notice and fail regularly. Most important make sure you use a coolant filter and change it as you are suposed too. You have a great plan and for even more reliability it would be good to send out your FICM to FICM REPAIR and have it gone over while the truck is down.

 

Jesse Warren (warren diesel) for injector services.

Good plan so far, ditch the Black Onyx like suggested and go OEM Ford for gaskets.

Make sure you get those heads taken care of too. Decked, pressure checked, magnafluxed, valve job, etc.

 

Thanks for all your responses! I will soak it all in. Just got back from working out of town. Now i can sink my teeth into this one.
Follow up question: tuners>>> any negatives on the H&S Mini Max?

 

SCT is the preferred choice for most people since it can tune you tranny. havent had any dealings with the mini max so i really dont know anything about it

 

I would ONLY use an H&S if you have it loaded with custom tunes from Mike @ KEM. He is the ONLY guy who writes custom tunes for 6.0's using the H&S software, just so you know. SCT is 1/2 the cost, and there are dozens of tune writers to choose from. I would NOT use the H&S off the shelf however.

Also, once custom tunes are written on to the H&S, you will lose the shift on the fly function. Proper tuning for a 6.0 should be done by shutting the truck off and loading a new tune. Shift on the fly is bad juju for 6.0's.

 

OK. I put OEM head gaskets on and am returning the H&S Mini Max and am going to go with SCT. Figured I would go ahead and run the new exhaust now so It would be easier to get the 4" downpipe in. A little wd-40 and the stock hangers slid right out.
Questions:
1. should I heat wrap the new down pipe?
2. Any suggestions or links for a PROPER oil system bleed prior to ignition? I've read several different proceedures from bleeding at the high pressure oil rail to cycling the starter with feul pump fuse pulled. Which do you guys prefer?
BTW I did also go with the blue spring fuel pressure upgrade.

 

I just fired it up and then throttled to 3k rpms and held it for 3 to 5 mins until it started running right. Took me 2 times to get all the air out of the hp oil system.

 

What he said. Don't bother heat wrapping the downpipe.