Is it absolutely nessesary to reinstall the evaporator core housing and reconnect the a/c lines prior to starting the engine? cause it is such a biatch to get off> Just in case I need to go back into her.

 

Ok, so I have her all put back together. Fillied the oil from the filter housing to insure the resivour is full when I crank it.

Replaced all to orings in the oil rails, sct fittings, hpop, new injectors, oem head gaskets, sinister egr delete, icp sensor and pigtail, inspected the IPR valve everything looks good.

I go to do the initial start up and..... crank no start! no smoke. nothing.

So I tested the FICM 48v key on, 48v cranking.

the only part that I did not replace was the IPR Valve
Now she throws the code P2623.
do you think it is a wiring issue or do I need to go back in and replace the IPR?

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I also did the BLUE spring upgrade, HFCM drain valve upgrade and MBRP 4" Ehaust w/cat delete.

 

Ah you're probably fine. When you turn the key does the low pressure oil gauge come up on the dash? As long as that does, you've got low oil pressure. No smoke coming out the exhaust simply means the injectors are not firing, and since we know you have power and the FICM is good, it's the hydraulic side (high pressure oil). Even though you've filled the reservoir, it still takes some cranking to get it going. Keep cranking it, but make sure to give it a rest so the starter doesn't overheat.

Once it's running, Ford says 3k rpms for 3 minutes to bleed the air out believe it or not. Or you can just drive down the road and hammer on it a bunch to get it out. It might take a while.

P2623 is IPR open circuit, you might want to pull it and check it out.

I've heard of guys putting new IPR's and new HPOP's in, then having to replace the IPR AGAIN shortly after, due to debris from the swap. Try pulling the IPR first, see what it looks like.

You don't have a scan tool right? It'd be nice to see what IPR % duty cycle is...

 

I have been cranking the crap out her (in intervals of course). I don't have an aftermarket oil pressure guage installed yet. But the dash shows the pressure mid way during cranking But it does not move after turning the key on.
I pulled the code with a tuner. The only other codes it pulled were EGR related. I expected those to pop up after the delete. Cleared it and now the only one that comes up is the P2623. And of course the not enough run time codes.
We are fixin to get one heck of a storm here. So I guess I'll take a sabatical for the rest of the day and see what you all think.
BTW have run the battery down twice cranking it. Then recharged them. Batteries are only 4 months old> so they shouldn"t be an issue. Just wanted to give you an idea how much cranking has gone on over here!

 

It took me a while to get mine started after the job. You might want to try to bleed the air out of the fuel system too. I had to but im using the air dog ll. worth a shot tho. good luck

 

What is a good method to bleed the fuel lines? I went ahead and picked up a new IPR. Only a couple hours to replace it anyway. So I figured what the heck. It might will be backing up a bit. But at least it will give me peace of mind that EVERYTHING has been replaced.

 

on a stocker pump it should be just turning the key on and letting the fuel pump start up and do that several times before starting the truck. If that doesnt work try cracking a line at the fuel filter housing and turning the key to on and wait for straight fuel to come out.

 

To bleed the air out of the fuel system, turn the key forward so you can hear the fuel pump running. Leave it like that until you hear the fuel pump shut off. Repeat 2 more times, for a total of 3 key cycles. Then it should be good to start. A fuel pressure gauge will tell you when you have pressure and are ok to start too, but if not, 3 key cycles waiting for the pump to shut off each time does the trick.