High Delta's. Truck going to shop today.
#1
High Delta's. Truck going to shop today.
My delta's are to the point that something needs to be done and I am taking my truck to a shop later today to get the oil cooler, egr and other common upgrades/replacements done while they are in there.
My early 05 has 107k miles on it. Always been stock, no performance upgrades or tuning. About 30k miles ago the HG's, bed plate, main seal were replaced under the powertrain warranty. I only got my Edge Insight CTS about 3k miles ago so I don't know what my delta's were back then. Before I take my truck in I just want to make sure that there isn't something else that the shop should look at with regard to my delta's. I put a coolant filter on 3k miles ago and replaced the filter at 1k and cut the old one open. Nothing inside, no casting sand, no evidence of gelling. Is there potentially anything else that could cause high delta's other than the oil cooler and egr?
I am assuming that it must have been soot or initial casting sand that probably clogged my oil cooler? Is that the most likely cause, and why I'm not seeing anything in the coolant filter now?
I have an oil bypass system that I am having the shop install while they have my truck. Hopefully that will help with any soot problem, and they are also cleaning my turbo. I continue to get the 299 turbo underboost code on my Insight.
When the Ford dealer had my truck about a week ago to replace the crank sensor they said they were getting an intermittent showing of all 8 injectors failing, but they doubted the validity of that. The truck seems to be running really well right now, though after the crank sensor replacement I experienced the starting but only 400rpm/stalling in gear problem one more time, so it obviously wasn't the crank sensor. I am thinking it may have been the turbo vanes being stuck?
My early 05 has 107k miles on it. Always been stock, no performance upgrades or tuning. About 30k miles ago the HG's, bed plate, main seal were replaced under the powertrain warranty. I only got my Edge Insight CTS about 3k miles ago so I don't know what my delta's were back then. Before I take my truck in I just want to make sure that there isn't something else that the shop should look at with regard to my delta's. I put a coolant filter on 3k miles ago and replaced the filter at 1k and cut the old one open. Nothing inside, no casting sand, no evidence of gelling. Is there potentially anything else that could cause high delta's other than the oil cooler and egr?
I am assuming that it must have been soot or initial casting sand that probably clogged my oil cooler? Is that the most likely cause, and why I'm not seeing anything in the coolant filter now?
I have an oil bypass system that I am having the shop install while they have my truck. Hopefully that will help with any soot problem, and they are also cleaning my turbo. I continue to get the 299 turbo underboost code on my Insight.
When the Ford dealer had my truck about a week ago to replace the crank sensor they said they were getting an intermittent showing of all 8 injectors failing, but they doubted the validity of that. The truck seems to be running really well right now, though after the crank sensor replacement I experienced the starting but only 400rpm/stalling in gear problem one more time, so it obviously wasn't the crank sensor. I am thinking it may have been the turbo vanes being stuck?
#2
The crank sensors almost never go bad in these. That code is typically falsely thrown when the truck is trying to be cranked a lot and not started, have you had that issue at all?
I would stick with your original plan to be honest.
You're deleting the EGR cooler anyways right?
The oil cooler is the cause of the delta in temps, nothing else can really do that. Even though you didn't find a bunch of casting sand or silica, I think you'll notice quite an improvement from the list of stuff you've got going on to it.
I don't see the turbo causing your starting issues or the low RPM. There is something else going on most likely that would cause the erratic injector codes and that starting/stalling issue.
The truck seems to be running fine now though right?
Get the work done you need/want to do, the detlas is a problem and needs fixing regardless. The EGR delete will only help longevity. Once you've got that figured out, take it from there and see how it acts. You may have another issue, and we can figure that out. Either way the delta needs to be taken care of...
Don't let that shop replace 8 injectors though, 8 injectors dont go bad out of no where, and they certainly dont work one minute and not the next and then back to working again.
What kind of oil are you running and what oil filter?
I would stick with your original plan to be honest.
You're deleting the EGR cooler anyways right?
The oil cooler is the cause of the delta in temps, nothing else can really do that. Even though you didn't find a bunch of casting sand or silica, I think you'll notice quite an improvement from the list of stuff you've got going on to it.
I don't see the turbo causing your starting issues or the low RPM. There is something else going on most likely that would cause the erratic injector codes and that starting/stalling issue.
The truck seems to be running fine now though right?
Get the work done you need/want to do, the detlas is a problem and needs fixing regardless. The EGR delete will only help longevity. Once you've got that figured out, take it from there and see how it acts. You may have another issue, and we can figure that out. Either way the delta needs to be taken care of...
Don't let that shop replace 8 injectors though, 8 injectors dont go bad out of no where, and they certainly dont work one minute and not the next and then back to working again.
What kind of oil are you running and what oil filter?
#3
Define high deltas. I see 15* (about 188/203) cruising straight and level and upwards of 20* (204/225) when climbing hills over Donner Pass or some other summit that is a good climb. Even when I see the 20* split, it falls off in a reasonable amount of time when the load is off of the truck. Honestly, until I see 20* split cruising straight and level, the oil cooler is staying put.
I've got an early 2003 6.0 with a coolant bypass filter and OEM HG and bolts sitting right at 100K.
I've got an early 2003 6.0 with a coolant bypass filter and OEM HG and bolts sitting right at 100K.
#4
Define high deltas. I see 15* (about 188/203) cruising straight and level and upwards of 20* (204/225) when climbing hills over Donner Pass or some other summit that is a good climb. Even when I see the 20* split, it falls off in a reasonable amount of time when the load is off of the truck. Honestly, until I see 20* split cruising straight and level, the oil cooler is staying put.
I've got an early 2003 6.0 with a coolant bypass filter and OEM HG and bolts sitting right at 100K.
I've got an early 2003 6.0 with a coolant bypass filter and OEM HG and bolts sitting right at 100K.
How did you come up with that cut-off point? I mean, obviously 15* isn't a dead set in stone number, it's just a general rule of thumb. I've often wondered, where is that cut-off though, you know? I was just curious if you had some reasoning behind it or that's just what you feel comfortable with.
I asked myself the same thing for a while, and then I decided a $250 oil cooler rebuild sounded a lot better than replacing a $1000 head (per bank).
Just curious karl!
#5
The crank sensors almost never go bad in these. That code is typically falsely thrown when the truck is trying to be cranked a lot and not started, have you had that issue at all?
I would stick with your original plan to be honest.
You're deleting the EGR cooler anyways right?
The oil cooler is the cause of the delta in temps, nothing else can really do that. Even though you didn't find a bunch of casting sand or silica, I think you'll notice quite an improvement from the list of stuff you've got going on to it.
I don't see the turbo causing your starting issues or the low RPM. There is something else going on most likely that would cause the erratic injector codes and that starting/stalling issue.
The truck seems to be running fine now though right?
Get the work done you need/want to do, the detlas is a problem and needs fixing regardless. The EGR delete will only help longevity. Once you've got that figured out, take it from there and see how it acts. You may have another issue, and we can figure that out. Either way the delta needs to be taken care of...
Don't let that shop replace 8 injectors though, 8 injectors dont go bad out of no where, and they certainly dont work one minute and not the next and then back to working again.
What kind of oil are you running and what oil filter?
I would stick with your original plan to be honest.
You're deleting the EGR cooler anyways right?
The oil cooler is the cause of the delta in temps, nothing else can really do that. Even though you didn't find a bunch of casting sand or silica, I think you'll notice quite an improvement from the list of stuff you've got going on to it.
I don't see the turbo causing your starting issues or the low RPM. There is something else going on most likely that would cause the erratic injector codes and that starting/stalling issue.
The truck seems to be running fine now though right?
Get the work done you need/want to do, the detlas is a problem and needs fixing regardless. The EGR delete will only help longevity. Once you've got that figured out, take it from there and see how it acts. You may have another issue, and we can figure that out. Either way the delta needs to be taken care of...
Don't let that shop replace 8 injectors though, 8 injectors dont go bad out of no where, and they certainly dont work one minute and not the next and then back to working again.
What kind of oil are you running and what oil filter?
I have been running Shell Rotella T6 5-40 and genuine Motocraft filter.
Leaving for the shop in about an hour. It's a two and a half hour drive to get there.
Thanks again for all of the help and advice, it is genuinely appreciated.
#6
How did you come up with that cut-off point? I mean, obviously 15* isn't a dead set in stone number, it's just a general rule of thumb. I've often wondered, where is that cut-off though, you know? I was just curious if you had some reasoning behind it or that's just what you feel comfortable with.
I asked myself the same thing for a while, and then I decided a $250 oil cooler rebuild sounded a lot better than replacing a $1000 head (per bank).
Just curious karl!
I asked myself the same thing for a while, and then I decided a $250 oil cooler rebuild sounded a lot better than replacing a $1000 head (per bank).
Just curious karl!
Although, honestly, I have been kicking around the idea of just doing it in the fall and being done with it. If I'm thinking about it that much, you know I'm going to do it. I'm wishing now that I would have biten the bullet and done it last November when I did the EGR cooler delete, hell, I was all but there!
Last edited by Karls03; 06-17-2012 at 01:53 PM.
#7
Taking the truck to the shop it was 75 degrees. Cruise set on 65mph my delta's stayed right around ECT 192 and EOT 210.
Could I have probably gone a bit longer before having the work done? I am guessing I probably could have. I don't think it's worth the risk of things getting too warm and causing other problems though. The symptoms were there and I feel better about addressing them now.
Could I have probably gone a bit longer before having the work done? I am guessing I probably could have. I don't think it's worth the risk of things getting too warm and causing other problems though. The symptoms were there and I feel better about addressing them now.
The following users liked this post:
Karls03 (06-18-2012)
#8
Its cheap insurance to get it done now, its good to know what is in there. I should have done mine sooner, it was so clogged I guldn't get any air to blow through it with compressor.
Carls, pull your pisser tube off the degas bottle and put into a bucket while truck is running to make sure you are getting good flow through it, flow should increas as you throttle up, if not then the cooler is glogged. The line that comes off intake to degas bottle.
Carls, pull your pisser tube off the degas bottle and put into a bucket while truck is running to make sure you are getting good flow through it, flow should increas as you throttle up, if not then the cooler is glogged. The line that comes off intake to degas bottle.
#9
Carls, pull your pisser tube off the degas bottle and put into a bucket while truck is running to make sure you are getting good flow through it, flow should increas as you throttle up, if not then the cooler is glogged. The line that comes off intake to degas bottle.
Define good flow? Obviously a trickle won't do, but should it spray like a water hose in a Tom and Jerry cartoon? It's a GREAT idea that makes perfect sense, but I'm at a disadvantage not having done this earlier for a control.
If I have someone tach it up to 15~1700, how long should it take to pump half a gallon into a jug? I say a half gallon because I don't know if I will have enough hose to lstand up a coolant jug, but I should be able tilt it and get half a gallon.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Taking the truck to the shop it was 75 degrees. Cruise set on 65mph my delta's stayed right around ECT 192 and EOT 210.
Could I have probably gone a bit longer before having the work done? I am guessing I probably could have. I don't think it's worth the risk of things getting too warm and causing other problems though. The symptoms were there and I feel better about addressing them now.
Could I have probably gone a bit longer before having the work done? I am guessing I probably could have. I don't think it's worth the risk of things getting too warm and causing other problems though. The symptoms were there and I feel better about addressing them now.
Last edited by Karls03; 06-18-2012 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
I heard from the shop that has my truck today. They said it fired up great when cold, and they hooked it to a scanner. He said the injectors are all great and no indication of any problems. He said he is pretty sure my occasional starting/stumbling low idle problem is due to a leak in the HPOP system, most likely STC fitting, dummy plug, etc. Thankfully those are things he was already planning to replace while in there anyway.
Since I am without my truck this week my daughter and I are hopping on my motorcycle and heading south for the rest of the week. I will update this thread after I pick my truck up. Thanks for all of the help, especially to Mdub who has helped me a great deal.
Since I am without my truck this week my daughter and I are hopping on my motorcycle and heading south for the rest of the week. I will update this thread after I pick my truck up. Thanks for all of the help, especially to Mdub who has helped me a great deal.