my truck is an 05. yeah i missed post 7. i see what your saying now about the volts being ok but the ficm being bad. i should send it in the worst thing that could happen is theres nothing wrong with it and i pay a 50 dollar bench fee, . im going to probly have ficm do my repair and stick to 48 volts. when i get home tonight i will inspect the wiring harness under ficm around the valve covers, and what not. what else do you guys recomend i check tonight?

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quick note. in post 7 when you say the electrical cluth has failed is that in the cumputer or the fan clutch or somthing else?

 

I hear ya. For me I guess it doesn't matter, I probably have 10 spare FICM's sitting here to play with. I even keep a good running spare in my truck. I will be doing 58V to my 4 pin and getting the gryphon from PHP for the 7 pin I have, and compare. Can't hurt anything. I suppose that's exactly what you mean with different priorities.

FWIW, anytime I have repaired any FICM's, I will usually offer to redo a 48V the way it sits, and also offer to upgrade internal components (basically all the parts you would use for the 58V, but keep it at 48V) as well. I really haven't had many that have had issues after repair. There were some that just were NOT repairable however. I know I have two or three 7 pins sitting here that test 48+V at all conditions, but run like complete garbage!

I always suggest anyone who has a suspect FICM to load test batteries FIRST. No point in paying someone to repair your FICM when the batteries are the root cause.


You're using an OEM oil filter right?

What batteries do you have? They tested at 400CCA? What are they rated at? I know mine are 880CCA... I'm also no battery expert.

Honestly, before I sent anything anywhere, I'd probably try some Rev-X or some of the evergreen alternative to see if that cured some issues. You might just have a bad injector or two.

 

my oil filter i got at napa and my load tester only goes to 400. but at 10 volts it peged out the amp needle. they are excite batterys a year old. ive tried rev x b4 and it works great. i will order some more

 

Oh boy, we might have found the culprit here...

Is it a napa brand filter? Did it come with it's own cap? If it did, remove it immediately, get an OEM cap and either a motorcraft, international, or Fram oil filter. Yes, I said Fram. Normally garbage, but in this case it's the same as the motorcraft.

The oil filters that use their own cap are complete crap. Some of them aren't even designed correctly to push on that little button down in the bottom of the filter base to allow oil in, so they starve the motor for oil. Luckily with a HEUI system when you starve the motor of oil, it either runs like crap or not at all.

 

well the ford dealer ship up hear is completely incompitant. so my navistar dealer sent me a fleet guard LF 16166 . it didnt come with a cap, i do have a spare cap so we r good there. and there is 2 bottles of rev x in the mail headed this was.

 

i heard a rumor that when an icp sensor goes out it wont throw a code. is that true. is that the same for an ipr as well?

 

For the ICP, it might, it might not. For the IPR, probably not, but probably not impossible. Out of all the things that have gone wrong with my truck, I've only ever had the check engine light come on once with a code that actually pointed to the issue.

You can monitor ICP and IPR with a scanner...

 

finially some good news. dumped in a bottle of rev x then i had ficm repairs do their primium upgrade. no injector codes no ficm codes no white smoke, and no more missing or skipping. thank you ficm repairs. now i need to figure out why my fuel psi guage is bouncing. im having the same issue as bmoore. thank you guys for the good advice, this site is the best for good info.