Hey guys, my names mason scott. I take care of a fleet of tow trucks for my boss, and his son recently got a 2005 6.0 f450 tow truck. 2 weeks after we got it, it blew an IC coupler after we did ALL fluid and filter changes, added a air raid intake, and drove it. Noticing large ammounts of oil in the tube I went a bit further and found the egr cooler was on the way south, as was the turbo. So we did the upgraded fuel presure reg, bulletproof cooler, new oil cooler, new STC fitting(upgraded), both revised turbo oil lines, 3.5inch AFE down pipe, junkyard turbo, cleaned the intake out for days, ALL new gaskets, little port work on the intake elbow, CCV mod, IPR screen, HPOP pump upgrade screen, etc. Basically tried to solve all the 6.0 issues before anything else **** the bed. Trucks been running great but now Im getting extended crank time when warm. Codes p2290 and p2291 for ICP too low on crank. Ive heard of air testing the high pressure oil system but this it the first 6.0 ive dived into and its been quiet intimidating.
It kills me to think the brand new STC fitting is leaking, I used the nice little tool they gave me and used a feeler gauge to see that it was flush. Running ALL baldwin filter, RP synthetic 15w40, and BG fuel additive to keep these injectors going as long as possible. When I did the top end I noticed the FMIC was just flopping around on top of the motor, I have since rubber isolated it and mounted it.
Any direction as to where to start the testing, and how to would be great. I know I should do a serch but Im on the clock as we speak so haha. Thanks so much guys.

O BTW truck has 137k on it and is 2wd reg cab if that makes any difference. I do NOT know if any recall work has been performed on the truck by ford, when we bought it, it was obvious the previous tow company had no concern in maintaining this truck...

 

Page 61: Electrical Components

ICP failing.

 

First, get rid of that baldwin filter. I really hope it's not one of those oil filters that uses it's own cap, it could be part of the problem right there. Only use Ford, International, or in this very rare case, a Fram, as it's the same as the motorcraft.

Next, you did all of that work, what about stand pipes and dummy plugs? Those should have been upgraded along with the STC fitting.

I'm not a fan of any of royal purples products, but to each their own. The purple dye in the oil is the most expensive part about it...

Do you have access to a scanner? You can monitor ICP desired against ICP actual and check IPR % duty cycle while watching these two.

If not, try unplugging the ICP sensor and re-starting it.

I doubt you messed up the STC fitting, it's pretty straight forward. First go to OEM oil filter, and then try unplugging ICP sensor and see if it changes. If it doesn't change, which I doubt it will, it probably needs the dummy plugs and stand pipes done. The kit is about $100 from Ford for all the necessary parts.

Welcome to DB!

 

No I went and specifically got the ford OEM oil filter cap so I could use the baldwin filter inplace of the shitty napa one that comes with the cap. The royal purple is just due to the fact that we have a performance store in house so we have that on the shelf, and I was warned to NOT run rotella in the 6.0 due to damage that it can cause to the injector spool valves. At idle it desires 580psi, and has 580psi. At start up im getting 1180, desired 681. I was told the stand pipes were only able to be changed if the heads were removed which thank god I did not have to do, yet. The dummy plugs I tried to get my boss to do, but I barely got him to agree to buy everything else as it was. He wasnt to convinced that these motors are ticking time bombs unless the revised parts are in. He believes me now though.
Im not getting a check engine light, just those stored DTC's, and sometimes a long start when hot.

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Thanks for the welcome too, this place seems to be pouring with great info. Besides the 05 we also have a 01 f450 4x4 6 speed 7.3 tow truck thats a beast, and I just got the pleasure of doing 2 ball joints and EVERY axle seal in the front end. Not something I want to do again any time soon haha.
On a side note speaking of that truck, anyone know how to get a rear end for it? Ford cant find me the parts, and every shop I call says they cant touch them.

 

Your signature doesnt say where you are located so its hard to provide a parts dealer in your area....?

 

youdon't need to remove head for standpipes, just valve cover and oil rail, welcome aboard.

 

Bob's right, don't have to yank the heads to get those, but they can be tricky if you're not removing the heads. Still possible.

I'd pull the IPR out and check the screen on it, even though it's new. The only time I've seen actual ICP higher than desired ICP, the IPR is usually clogged. It's not uncommon clogging the screen again even on a new one, right after a tear down. Just short of that, the only thing that really causes hard hot starts is a high pressure oil leak of some sort.

Yeah, pull the IPR and see what it looks like.

 

I live in RI, I use tasca ford for all the OEM parts on the truck. and thanks for the info, Ill have to pull the ipr tomorrow and take a look. Everything besides the cooler, and down pipe came straight from ford. Every gasket, every thing. I didnt want to take any chances, since it is after all a 6.0

 

Let us know what you find...

Good call on the Ford parts. Working on my rangers I had before, parts were never this big of a deal. I can't believe the quality differences you find between Ford's parts and some of the crappy aftermarket stuff. Amazing.

 

Got a few sets of motorcraft filters for the truck, swapped the oil filter, and it seemed ok for a day. Next day the same issue, no start, or very extended crank when it was hot. So Im in the middle of doing the stand pipes and dummy plugs right now. Drivers side was cake, but 2 hours in the passenger side and I still havent got the glow plug module out. All you guys with normal trucks are lucky, this things got a giant *** hydro pump next to the alt, and some how I have to figure out how to move it to get at the bolts.... Anyone ever worked on a truck with a deewez electric clutch hydro pump? The bracket bolts are behind the tensioner that I cant figure out how to remove. This things just one abortion after another!!
On a better note, drivers side dummy plug had a flat spot on one of the orings, so im praying after all this BS of ripping into the top end for the 3rd time that there will be no more issues!