I have dual alternators, I feel your pain. It takes me almost an hour to get the alternators and all the related brackets etc off... I can't even use the tensioners for the most part, since tools really wont fit in there properly. I end up just pulling the belt up by hand and sliding it off.

 

I need to remove the tensioner because the hydro pump has a HUGE bracket that bolts UNDER the stock tensioner so I cant see or find the bolts.

 

I had to do the same on mine, but I couldn't use it in the sense it was meant to be used. Couldn't get a breaker bar on it to turn it to relax the belt. I usually just unbolt the alternator and let the belt loosen up that way, putting it back on I sit on top of the motor and pull up on the belt until the tensioner moves and then slip it on, it's real fun.

Can you get some pictures of what you're doing? I'd be interested to see it.

 

sure. ill post them once I get home ive snapped a few as im going. I appreciate your help so far!

 

Nice! Can't wait to see it!

 

Forgot to get the pics up, but I got a bunch of the hydro bracket set up. Ended up unbolting the pulley and clutch then removing the pump and i was able to squeeze the V/C out. Replaced the pass side without much issue. Just had to separate the stand pipes like I read I would. Truck starts now every time when its hot just cranks longer then cold before it fires. About 5-7 seconds before it fires up, verse 3-5 cold. Not sure if this is due to running the 15w40 synthetic, or normal for a 6.0, or something else that I dont know about haha. Any feedback on this? We do private property tows so reliability is a must because irate car owners are something we try to keep our drivers from dealing with, hence why we bought this autoloader. Thanks so much for your help guys, youve been a huge help to this diesel noob!

 

15w-40 synthetic? Which oil is this?

5-7 seconds is an eternity. Mine doesn't even take 3 seconds when cold...

What shape are these batteries in on this? Have they been load tested at all? What bout the FICM, that's been tested right?

 

At one point my 03 was throwing an icp low pressure code. It was actually the stc fitting on the feed line that connects to the stand pipe on passenger side that was leaking. It is a very simple fix. And there is a shop close to me that will replace the stc seals for 25.00 vs the stealership cost of $90.00+ for the feed line. Worth checking into.

 

Feed line and STC have been replaced with the revised parts already. Everything that was replaced was Ford OEM replacement other then the bulletproof EGR cooler.
Oil is 15w40 royal purple. Thinking about switching to either rotella T6 or the synthetic chevron. I was told synthetic is needed to make the spool valves in the injectors last, and reduces injector failure.
Battery's are both fairly new, but now that I think about it never tested them. It shows while cranking it doesnt drop below 12v.
FICM has a date of 04/07/07, now how to you go about testing it? I know bulletproof just came out with a new upgraded power supply with a larger more efficient heat sink. Is something like that benifical to these trucks? Or is it something I should wait till it fails to replace.
Getting an edge attiude with juice, and egt probe for the truck soon so I want to make sure its ready before I pump it up anymore.

This is the 6.0 and the first round of parts, and the new tip. Other is our 2001 f450 7.3 6 speed 4x4.

 

I'd skip the Edge unit, unless you're getting it just for gauges, but in that case I'd go with the CTS. Do not use that for power adders.

FICM test procedure is at the top of the 6.0 pages, it's a "sticky" up there, very easy to do, but you'll need an extra set of hands.

The most expensive part of royal purple is the purple die in it. I'd go with the T6 myself. Synthetic is a good thing for a 6.0, I just had not heard of many synthetic 15w-40's, most are 5w-40.

Test the FICM and then let us know what you get, then we can present some options for you. The bulletproof stuff is nice as always, but man is it expensive.