So I just got off the phone with ford apparently I have a leak on my up pipe and my fan clutch is bad. Now would a faulty fan clutch cause the truck to be slow cause I don't think it would

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I need to talk to the guy again but he said that the hose going to the turbo inlet is leaking so I'm assuming the y pipe is bad. Would u think I need to get the full y pipe or just the partial? On top of that Im replacing the egr cooler and oil cooler. While I'm in there how much more work will it take to fix this item? Also is it nessasarry to replace the up pipe at this point?

 

Hey sorry to hear all this happening to ya. The first thing i would do is buy a scan tool like auto enginuity or computer based scan tool throwing parts at this truck aint cheap and is time consuming. As for the dealer saying your fan clutch is BO it isnt if your fan clutch wasnt working properly you would have a no start engine.Also I wouldnt think you would have a crack y pipe if you did have a cracked pipe you would hear it and smell it too but your cranking smoke out your exhaust so it has enough pressure to get out it.Weird thing is today i had somewhat of the same problems you were having after i replaced my hpop put it back together drove it and had barely any boost and would shift at 3000rpm doing maybe 30mph i popped the hood map sensor air line to the intake wasn't plugged in put it on then ran liked a champ.The map sensor will default to 13 psi if it has a fault.But to check the sensors status you need a scan tool.Anyways if you're gonna be wrenching on the 6.0 i would definitely consider a nice scan tool to read all the sensors saved me a bunch of headaches.

 

so i just finished talking to the guy at ford. he said it not the up pipe or y pipe its the actual pipe that connects the intake to the turbo... i find this hard to believe because i mean if i took off my whole intake it would drive fine... can some one fill me in before i go pick it up also on the fan clutch problem i guess the fan clutch isnt bad its self its the wireing for it got torn so im gonna gonna cut that part out and connect it back together

 

I'm confused. Did they tell you that your y-pipe is leaking, or is that what you came up with? If the HOSE going to the turbo INLET is leaking... I'd say that's the intake no? There's not hoses going to the exhaust side of the turbo, just piping. I guess this got lost in translation here, so what is it that's leaking? A leaky up-pipe would be noisy, most likely leave soot everywhere under the hood, and would cause the truck to run hot and slow, for sure.

To do the EGR cooler on top of this would be nothing in labor, but why on earth would you put another EGR cooler in there. Order a delete kit and give that to them, it will be way cheaper than a new cooler anyways. The oil cooler is a good idea, not too much more work once you're in that far honestly, but the intake manifold will surely have to come off now.

If you must replace the y-pipe section, upgrade it now, they're prone to cracking anyways. Diesel Part # ford60ypipefull - Ford 6.0 Long Y Pipe - Diesel Performance Parts

Or this is what I would probably go with, even on sale! :
MPD 6.0 HD Up-pipes

 

sorry for the confusion i came to conclusion it was the y-pipe when i was on 2 hours of sleep. apparently it is cracked on the pipe that connects the air filter to the turbo. i told him how in the hell is that causing a problem i mean in my eyes all thats doing is letting more air into the engine. he said its because more air is entering the turbo after the sensor takes a reading? still i have a hard time believeing this but i am in no position with diesel engines to determine if the tech that looked at my truck is full of it.

so at this point when i go down there im having him point out what pipe hes exactly talking about. if it is infact the intake pipe ill just get a whole new afe stage 2 dry filter set up i guess unless others disagree i mean the oem part just the pipe is $480 and i can get a whole intake set up with that exact pipe for 350

oh and i bought the bullet proof egr cooler and oil cooler package from mkm a while back i couldnt do a delete cause im in california i just havent installed it yet

 

Ok, now we're getting somewhere.

I agree, having that intake cracked wouldn't do squat, at least I don't think. I've never really watched to see what the MAF is reading or what it's doing, but I can't imagine it causing issues. I wont say with 100% it wouldn't cause issues, but I don't believe it would.

I agree, at that point just get an aftermarket, or a junkyard unit. No point spending $500 on another stocker, might as well upgrade right!

Ok good call on the solutions kit, I'm sure labor wouldn't be much more, but if they don't have to get to the y-pipe and all they are proposing is swapping intakes out, it would basically be the full normal price to do the other stuff, since you're not removing anything but the intake which is like a 5 minute job... not going to save on labor there.

 

well just picked up the truck... it is the Y-pipe... and my fan clutch cut the wires to the fan clutch im not to worried about that but im pissed on the Y pipe

here is what the paper said
EEC TEST, P0401 P0480 P0500 P0528 DIAH & FOUND LEFT SIDE TURBO INLET PIPE LEAKING EXHAUST AT FLEXJOINT, FAN CLUTCH WIRING CUT BY FAN.

so its not to much work to replace the y pipe once i get in there to do the egr cooler and oil cooler? should i get the partial or full y pipe?

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also am i going to be able to replace this part with the cab on

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well i just found an awesome place to buy parts i got the y pipe a updated turbo drain tube and all the hard ware and washers for 300 even with next day air shipping the place is called TASCA PARTS CENTER located in road island and all parts are ford factory parts not re makes plus they are brand new its a ebay store i havent looked if they had a web site but seems legit to me i placed my order over the phone also i came across the most detailed parts number list ill submit the link its from powerstrokedotorg actually is it ok if i post it on this site?

 

I probably still would have went with the heavy duty y-pipe setup myself, the stockers are notorious for cracking, so even a new one will probably crack again at some point, but not the end of the world. Tousley sells the updated drain tube for $21. 6C3Z-9T515-A.

Ideally we want to build OUR database up here, so if we keep posting links elsewhere, it just sends people away from the site. Can you PM me the link so I can check it out first? I have a humongous parts list in excel that bismic I believe sent to me. I've thought about how I'm going to post it up here and keep it easily update-able. I wonder if it's the same list haha.

Also yes, you can do this with the cab on. I would definitely do it all at the same time.