Have you tried pulling the ABS code? It's odd that the speedo doesn't work, usually it's the sensor on the diff. How many miles have you driven it since you swapped it? Sometimes it takes a little driving for it to go away.

 

yeah i was bummed when it didnt solve my problem. i have driven id say some where around 50 miles since it was replaced. i called ford today and the tech told me that if it was the issue it would of gone away instantly i asked him what he think it might be and he said he would have to run a diagnostics on it... im trying to avoid spending the 110$ for them to tell me whats wrong. i tried scanning my abs and the scanner told me my truck didnt support that function?

as far as the dumping black smoke and no power issue i noticed something today. i noticed that no matter warm or cold it will drive fine for the first couple of WOT then in the middle of wide open throttle it will kind of like loose half its power and drive with little power until it turn the truck off again how ever no matter how its driving its dumping black smoke at WOT i havent checked the ebp sensor yet i just now picked up my tools so hopefully before the sun goes down im gonna check it i just have to wait for the engine to cool

 

Definitely check out the EBP.

For ABS codes you would need a better scanner, like AutoEnginuity or the likes. However, I know the code readers at advanced auto and the likes will pick it up, and they're free to use... try that! You might actually have a real ABS code for the front, not just a false code cause of a dirty sensor on the pumpkin.

 

k so i dove into the engine today to check out the ebp sensor. sensor looked good it had just surface carbon no chunks or anything i then took a metal coat hanger and pushed it far into the hose to clear any obstructions but seemed as if there were none i then took the sensor and sprayed carb cleaner into it let it soak and then took a q-tip and cleaned it the best i could followed by spraying it with break cleaner to remove the oily residue left behind when using carb cleaner.

out come: nothing... didnt change a thing

i know its hard to diagnose a problem with out even seeing the truck so im gonna try to describe whats going on as best as possible

k i dont know about every one else but if i dont warm it up even a little here in southern california its slow until 2nd gear then takes off and acts like that till it warms up a little. its done this since ive owned the truck (jan 2012) the problem im facing now is low power black smoke however the smoke has kind of lightened up only a little pours out now. when i say low power it feel like its always running as if i just started it in the morning as stated above. but it will drive normal for the first 2 wide open throttles. in the middle of the second wide open throttle around 3rd gear the power just seems to die out. the motor sounds like its really trying to work through it though. at the same time my exhaust isnt making that straight piped motor cycle sound if you know what im talking about. i have driven with a heavy foot since i installed my straight pipe. i have 2 check engine lights that i dont feel are related to this P0401 and a P1780 both ive had for a while now. i can hear the turbo when im driving and i think thats about it

as far as the abs light on and no speedometer ive also discovered my mpg are 0.0 and havent changed and im not gaining any miles i replaced the abs sensor on top of the dif and it didnt changed anything my scanner has a function to check the abs light but it reads that my truck doesnt support this feature does this sound like my abs computer or what ever its called got fried some how?

thanks for all input and advice it i cant figure it out by fri im dropping it off at the dealer ship to get a diagnostics

 

So we've got two separate issues here. An ABS issue, which it sounds like your scanner isn't capable of reading. Most code readers can't read ABS stuff. It is definitely going to need to be hooked to a better scanner. Can you not just drive by an auto parts store and borrow their reader and check it out? It will probably tell you exactly what needs to be done.

second issue is your running issue. Is the EGR valve still in place on this truck? Have you inspected that? Has the turbo been removed and cleaned at all?

 

The scanner I have is an inova brand which reads obd 2 and abs it definitely has an abs reader on it but if u think a different scanner would be better its worth a shot.

The egr valve is still in place I took it out about a mo. Ago and cleaned it for the second time each time It didn't seem as though there was enough carbon build up to raise concern. Just a light surface coat. The turbo has been removed before but never reconditioned. I was planning on reconditioning it when I remove and replace my egr cooler and oil cooler with in the next few weeks

 

From what you're describing it sounds like the truck runs fine but then just loses boost out of no where, simulating a failing VGT solenoid, a sticky turbo or the EGR valve malfunctioning.

 

Hmmm, check this out... https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-p...689-p1780.html

power loss associated with the P1780 code, which is a trans control code. Maybe your two issues ARE related, I'm going to do some more research here.


Thinking about this more, this makes sense. Some of the posts say that the P1780, being a trans control issue, could be causing the torque converter to lock up real early, which in your case is why you all of a sudden feel a power loss and start rolling smoke, you're just loading the motor up like crazy. It'd be like trying to drive a manual trans truck, and starting out in 5th gear. Hard to do right? Big load on the truck, kills the RPM's, etc...

Let's test the function of the switch. Do you normally drive around with the tow/haul mode OFF? Try turning tow/haul on and see what happens. Or while driving down the road, cycle between the two and see if you notice a change. Does the light come on/off?

 

Check to see if you have a tear in one of the boots with the intercooler piping? Or maybe something restricting your air flow? How much psi were you pushing? If hardly anything or it is taking 2x as long to spool up, It might have something to do with air flow.

 

Have you tried to do a computer reset? undo the ground on both batteries and let it sit for a couple minutes, then /making sure grounds aren't on battery/ touc the ground cable to the pos on one of the batteries, this makes sure there is no stored energy. Hold the ground on there for at least 10 seconds. Then make sure everything is clear and hook the batteries back up and restart it to see what happens.