A larger volume will slow down velocity though... Most say they notice a drop in throttle response using the larger banks tubes over stockers. Makes it a little harder to spool them snails.

Sorry, we did totally hijack this didn't we?

 

Its just like having a larger tank on an air compressor, there is more volume at the ready. Its all about volume, presure is good but if you don't gain volume then it is a waist. I don't have turbo lag,it is pretty snappy and can build 35psi with no problem. You go up in size on the exhaust because it lowers the backpresure and lets more volume out the tail pipe easier, Right? with a smaller exhaust you have more presure but less volume, same principal.

 

We don't have a "volume" issue though. The intake manifold is the biggest restriction in the entire intake system.

Everyone with a 6.0 has turbo lag, it's just some are worse than others.

Check this out Bob, let me know your thoughts.
New 6.0 Intake Kit - PowerStrokeArmy

 

Looks Like "bling" and a waist of money to me. It still uses 2 boots and bolts up th same way. Sending the intake out for Extrude Hone or buying the real expensive one where they cut the top off and remove bolt bosses would be money better spent.

 

Hey I have another problem, I can only get my boost up to 24 psi smashing it? Is this normal?

 

These trcks max out at 36psi, you should be able to get more then 24lbs, my buddies truck is doing the ame thing as far as low boost and I think that is the same number he is seeing 24psi, he replaced the actuator and it didn't help. he hasn't messed with it for a while, might be a dirty turbo but the way he drives I doubt it, he has a heavy right foot.

 

On stock tuning I always ran 22-24psi. Never any higher than that. I've only touched 35psi or so in a really hot tune rolling into it with the converter locked. I'd say 24psi is correct, depending on mods though. I don't consider 24psi low boost on a stock truck.

Bob, I agree on the bling and waste of money thing man, no argument there. I posted the link more for the discussion that was going on in there. Those are the guys building the hottest 6.4 trucks in the world. The guy making it has the highest RWHP 6.4 to date on fuel only. A little truck known as Godzilla. Ring a bell? It was supposed to be in this years diesel power challenge, but had some last minute issues.

You're right though, the intake manifold will help more than any boost tubes will. I did upgrade my passenger side CAC tube though, took the original dual alt, crimped down tube off, and put on the freer flowing single alt tube. I lost about 1 psi of overall boost.

I also have two extra stock intake manifolds that are sitting there waiting for the tops to get machined off, I'm going to build my own!

 

Back to the topic at hand, so after taking off the programmer does your transmission still shift funny?

And if it does, then yes, your transmission definitely has something wrong with it.

Now is it going into gear after slowing down? OR rarely going into gear?

If it does after letting off the gas a little, then more then likely you just have a burnt/worn out clutch pack and set of steels that need replacing.

If it goes into gear rarely or something like that, you could have a faulty solenoid for that gear.

The 5R110 has a separate solenoid used for each individual gears but it is one of the best transmission ford has made..

Now if all the gears seems to be slipping and it is a little slow when starting to go and stuff like that, I'd suggest a new torque converter. If you do get a transmission rebuild, NEVER GO TO THE STOCK TC, always upgrade to the Billet 2+ Clutch TC.. It revs up faster and gets you up to torque faster every time it shifts.

I hope this helped. And yes, tuners do affect your transmission and do not help it in any way, shape or form.

 

Well that's not true. A stock tuned truck with a trans tune via an SCT will far outlast a stock truck with a stock trans tune. You can get trans only tunes via SCT. To my knowledge, it's the only programmer on the market readily available to consumers that can actually access the TCM and change parameters.

Other than that, you can put a stand-alone PCS controller on it and try to make it do what you want, when you want, which some of the 6.4 guys are learning they need to do.

Also for $350 or so, the stock torque converter really isn't that bad... it's a triple disk factory. Obviously upgrading has it's benefits but most converters are easily over $1k...

 

Are you sure you didn't misword that last line? It looks contradictary to itself. I too beg to differ that an SCT will reprogram your trans and I will agree that an Edge won't do a I LIKE TURTLES thing for your transmission.

When mine took a poop, a new valve body with solenoids didn't do anything for the slam shift. A Go-Go solenoid didn't help either.

http://valvebodyxpress.com/images/pd...0Operation.pdf

You aren't going to find the '3-5 shift' solenoid. In fact, depending on what the trans is doing, multiple solenoids may be engaged. The violent shift is actually to prevent clutch slippage between gears when there is a problem with the transmission. Everyone knows that while silky smooth shifts won't spill your juice, they will put excessive wear on the clutches. Furthermore, when you "let off the throttle" to shift because it is 'hanging up', that is usually the direct drive clutch solenoid in the 3-5 shift that is normal in an OEM 5R110, (a Go-Go Diesel solenoid is usually the solution here). Put some power to it without trans tuning, and yer buying a transmission like I did.

At $1900 for a transmission (+$400 for shipping) I'm not complaining about my OEM style converter. Billet converters can get up to $1500 on their own.