wont start cold
#1
wont start cold
hey all i am workin on a 05 6.0l. its a stock truck no mods at all. it has around 150,000mi and no codes. the problem is it wont start cold. if its plugged in for a few hours it will start up but runs horible for a few minutes. after its worm it has no problems or power loss. and will fire right up afterwards. i checked the ficm according to the thread and it checks out good withy 47.6v tested the hpop through the icp hole and it was under spec. at 250 psi. so i did a air test on the high pressure system with the ipr valve closed and didnt hear any leaking air. but its hard to hear everything when its on the back of the motor. i believe the stc fitting has NOT been replaced could it be a slow leak from that that i cant hear or is it more likely the hpop itsself?
#2
Well if you are only running 250 psi your screwed, you need no less than 500, according to ford it needs to be between 500-520. Also did you check fuel pressure it needs to be between 45-55 and if you have an OBDII make sure your SYNC is saying yes while your cranking. Our 6.0L HPOP went out at 180K miles, and it happens to be the same year so it can be the HPOP. But Make sure you have adequate fuel pressure.
#4
I wouldn't think an HPOP would allow it to start warm though? Usually when you have high pressure oil issues, it gets harder to start when it's warm, and easier when it's cold. If the HPOP is bad, it just wont start. How did you measure the HPOP pressure?
When you did the leak test, how exactly did you close the IPR? Apply a 12V source to it?
You tested the FICM at all 3 conditions? Key on/engine off, cranking, and running?
How old are your batteries? Might be worth having them load tested. Also any idea on the condition of the glow plugs or the glow plug control module?
When you're cranking and it's not starting, any smoke coming out? What color if it is?
When you did the leak test, how exactly did you close the IPR? Apply a 12V source to it?
You tested the FICM at all 3 conditions? Key on/engine off, cranking, and running?
How old are your batteries? Might be worth having them load tested. Also any idea on the condition of the glow plugs or the glow plug control module?
When you're cranking and it's not starting, any smoke coming out? What color if it is?
#5
i got a pigtail connector for the ipr and conected it to 12v.
i did all three of the conditions to test the ficm. they were all 47.6v
the batteries were the first thing to get changed they were under spec.
i tested each indivigual wire to the glow plugs with a amp clamp and they verried between 23-28 amp draw.
this is the weird thing when its cold and cranking u cant really notice smoke so im not sure if there is any. but it will fire once then keep cranking and not fire again until you cycle the key off then back on. and it will do the same thing over and over again. and before i get yelled at my boss told me to do it, but we tried starting fluid in it and it wouldnt even fire off of that it made it spin over faster but wouldnt fire.
when it was plugged in it started about as fast as it normaly would but i had to keep my foot on the throttle at about 1000 rpm to keep it running. it was puffin out black and grey smoke for about 2 minutes then was finally running correct after that. i am almost to the hpop im goig to replace it and see what that does for me. then i will chase electrical i guess if it is not the hpop.
i did all three of the conditions to test the ficm. they were all 47.6v
the batteries were the first thing to get changed they were under spec.
i tested each indivigual wire to the glow plugs with a amp clamp and they verried between 23-28 amp draw.
this is the weird thing when its cold and cranking u cant really notice smoke so im not sure if there is any. but it will fire once then keep cranking and not fire again until you cycle the key off then back on. and it will do the same thing over and over again. and before i get yelled at my boss told me to do it, but we tried starting fluid in it and it wouldnt even fire off of that it made it spin over faster but wouldnt fire.
when it was plugged in it started about as fast as it normaly would but i had to keep my foot on the throttle at about 1000 rpm to keep it running. it was puffin out black and grey smoke for about 2 minutes then was finally running correct after that. i am almost to the hpop im goig to replace it and see what that does for me. then i will chase electrical i guess if it is not the hpop.
#6
sounds like a bad case of stiction, have you tried RevX yet? coul be a loose injector, once it heats up it will tighten up a little to help seal it for now but could be hard to find with a scanner because it messes up fuel delivery to all injectors i n that bank so scanner might say one injector this time and another injector the next time. If it was the HPOP it would most likely not start hot as it would start easier cold.
#7
#8
Have you tried the marvels in this truck yet? I know my grandfather swore by that stuff.
Stiction is common inthe 6.0 injectors, the spool valve sticks making for slow response on cold injectors, once they heat up it goes away, the revx help the spool valve stay lubed better for the cold starts,Marvels might do the same thing.
Stiction is common inthe 6.0 injectors, the spool valve sticks making for slow response on cold injectors, once they heat up it goes away, the revx help the spool valve stay lubed better for the cold starts,Marvels might do the same thing.
#9