6" lift?
#11
Jesus, I keep forgetting you have leafs in the front, even though you said it 100x's. I personally would do a 4 link on mine... because it's basically already set up for it.
Stick with the leafs. It'll be the cheapest and easiest. You'll need a drop pitman arm for sure, extended brake lines more than likely, extensions for the sway bar end links and probably a few other things... I'm not terribly familiar with the leaf spring lifts for these. Karl would probably know pretty well.... ahem.... Karl....?
Stick with the leafs. It'll be the cheapest and easiest. You'll need a drop pitman arm for sure, extended brake lines more than likely, extensions for the sway bar end links and probably a few other things... I'm not terribly familiar with the leaf spring lifts for these. Karl would probably know pretty well.... ahem.... Karl....?
#13
Looks like that kit has a trac bar drop kit... just going to need to look at the angles once it's on there, an adjustable trac bar wouldn't be a terrible idea. Have you read anything about the balljoint flip for the trac bar yet? That might be a good idea with the lift, help keep everything aligned and get rid of some bumpsteer.
#15
#16
*
·******** Front Lift: Leaf Springs
·******** Front Sway Bar Spacers
·******** Bump Stops
·******** Steering Correction: Pitman Arm
·******** Rear Lift: Springs and U-bolts
·******** Shocks: Front/Rear ES9000 Shocks
·******** Shock Boots Not Included
·******** Max Tire Size: 37X13.50
·******** Wheel Size Range (Inches):16-20
·******** Wheel Width Range (Inches):8-10
·******** Min-Max Backspace (Inches)4.0-5.0
This is what she quoted me for $1,100
·******** Front Lift: Leaf Springs
·******** Front Sway Bar Spacers
·******** Bump Stops
·******** Steering Correction: Pitman Arm
·******** Rear Lift: Springs and U-bolts
·******** Shocks: Front/Rear ES9000 Shocks
·******** Shock Boots Not Included
·******** Max Tire Size: 37X13.50
·******** Wheel Size Range (Inches):16-20
·******** Wheel Width Range (Inches):8-10
·******** Min-Max Backspace (Inches)4.0-5.0
This is what she quoted me for $1,100
#17
What I don't see there is a drop bracket for the track bar. The track bar and drag link are supposed top be at the same angle for best results.
I COMPLETELY agree with Heavy Assault in buying a kit, I pieced mine together and spent mucho more than I needed to.
Don't sweat the bump stops, I get my tires dirty and never changed the bump stops.
Avoid at all costs stacking blocks, its a bad idea. Ever see a truck spit a block out of a stack? Its only cool when its not yours. Either get a single block of the desired height or get a spring lift, I have a 6" rear spring lift on my rig.
Finally, those generic, white tube nitrogen shocks are stiff! Trust me, I have 4 of them on mine. I would either get the "oil" shock or a Bilstien. Speaking of shocks, around here, shock boots are good sand collectors, we leave them in the box.
I COMPLETELY agree with Heavy Assault in buying a kit, I pieced mine together and spent mucho more than I needed to.
Don't sweat the bump stops, I get my tires dirty and never changed the bump stops.
Avoid at all costs stacking blocks, its a bad idea. Ever see a truck spit a block out of a stack? Its only cool when its not yours. Either get a single block of the desired height or get a spring lift, I have a 6" rear spring lift on my rig.
Finally, those generic, white tube nitrogen shocks are stiff! Trust me, I have 4 of them on mine. I would either get the "oil" shock or a Bilstien. Speaking of shocks, around here, shock boots are good sand collectors, we leave them in the box.
#20
Anytime you've got blocks that are getting to be 4" or bigger I'd say ladder bars are a GREAT idea. Even stock blocks with a ton more power added on will still wrap the crap out of the axle. I'm looking at doing ladder bars on my truck with the factory F350 blocks, which are 3 5/8". Just want to make sure I'm transferring as much power as possible and save some u-joints.
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