2 cracked heads
#11
#12
Weld the stock cooler, it will be just as good as a delete, and cost almost nothing. Then put that money towards studs.
The bolts Ford has have never at any point been improved. I've heard more than one tech spew this info with no fact's to back it up, the one's I just got that came with my new gaskets look just like every other junk TTY bolt Ford has put in the 6.0. They will be no better.
As for coolant, the system really needs a full flush before switching it up. Maybe do this after you get it running again. Any ELC coolant seems to be the popular choice, but honestly the Ford gold really isn't as bad as some make it out to be. Especially once you've got a new oil cooler and you have the coolant filter. It's also the only coolant Ford approves for their 6.0, so think about that. ELC's are NOT approved by Ford for this application. With that said, I think I will probably try the ELC stuff out when the time comes.
Seriously if it came down to the cost, I'd go OEM oil cooler rebuild (should be less than $300 even at his prices), weld the EGR cooler that's there, and get the ARP's. That's just me.
The bolts Ford has have never at any point been improved. I've heard more than one tech spew this info with no fact's to back it up, the one's I just got that came with my new gaskets look just like every other junk TTY bolt Ford has put in the 6.0. They will be no better.
As for coolant, the system really needs a full flush before switching it up. Maybe do this after you get it running again. Any ELC coolant seems to be the popular choice, but honestly the Ford gold really isn't as bad as some make it out to be. Especially once you've got a new oil cooler and you have the coolant filter. It's also the only coolant Ford approves for their 6.0, so think about that. ELC's are NOT approved by Ford for this application. With that said, I think I will probably try the ELC stuff out when the time comes.
Seriously if it came down to the cost, I'd go OEM oil cooler rebuild (should be less than $300 even at his prices), weld the EGR cooler that's there, and get the ARP's. That's just me.
#13
Weld the stock cooler, it will be just as good as a delete, and cost almost nothing. Then put that money towards studs.
The bolts Ford has have never at any point been improved. I've heard more than one tech spew this info with no fact's to back it up, the one's I just got that came with my new gaskets look just like every other junk TTY bolt Ford has put in the 6.0. They will be no better.
As for coolant, the system really needs a full flush before switching it up. Maybe do this after you get it running again. Any ELC coolant seems to be the popular choice, but honestly the Ford gold really isn't as bad as some make it out to be. Especially once you've got a new oil cooler and you have the coolant filter. It's also the only coolant Ford approves for their 6.0, so think about that. ELC's are NOT approved by Ford for this application. With that said, I think I will probably try the ELC stuff out when the time comes.
Seriously if it came down to the cost, I'd go OEM oil cooler rebuild (should be less than $300 even at his prices), weld the EGR cooler that's there, and get the ARP's. That's just me.
The bolts Ford has have never at any point been improved. I've heard more than one tech spew this info with no fact's to back it up, the one's I just got that came with my new gaskets look just like every other junk TTY bolt Ford has put in the 6.0. They will be no better.
As for coolant, the system really needs a full flush before switching it up. Maybe do this after you get it running again. Any ELC coolant seems to be the popular choice, but honestly the Ford gold really isn't as bad as some make it out to be. Especially once you've got a new oil cooler and you have the coolant filter. It's also the only coolant Ford approves for their 6.0, so think about that. ELC's are NOT approved by Ford for this application. With that said, I think I will probably try the ELC stuff out when the time comes.
Seriously if it came down to the cost, I'd go OEM oil cooler rebuild (should be less than $300 even at his prices), weld the EGR cooler that's there, and get the ARP's. That's just me.
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So I just need to weld both ends of the cooler correct?
Last edited by BKID; 04-23-2012 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#14
You can install a 35mm freeze plug into the end that hooks to exhaust pipe and a 30mm should fit into the side that bolts to intake, tackweld them with stainless rod if you have it, you can also make a solid gasket and a thin piece of sheetmetal to seal up the side that bolts to the manifold. I would put the money into the studs before anything else because you can do all the other work without removing cab or pulling the motor. you won't regret having the studs on there,
#15
Yep, freeze plugs work. Make sure to literally fill the whole end that attaches to the up-pipe if using a freeze plug, it gets HOT right there. Or, you can just get some stainless plate cut out in the size of the cooler and weld that in too. Check ebay, I think at one point you could just buy those plugs. I know there are companies that sell the plugs too. Absolute performance comes to mind. Maybe one of the sponsors on here can get it too?
#16
So will I have to replace the EGR frequently due to no cooling it down? Or will it just leave a Check Engine light on when it burns up? Sounds like gauges will have to be in my future. EGT , Oil pressure, Fuel Pressure, and maybe a engine temp?
Last edited by BKID; 04-23-2012 at 08:56 PM.
#17
The egr valve will just be a dummy, no exhaust gasses will pass through it anymore, the freeze plugs keep the exhaust gas from going through it, You would only be using the EGR cooler as a coolant path. cheapest way to do a delete and just as effective but there is no money to be made by doing it this way so that is why companys make a kit for them that does the same thing but they can charge you for some bling that will never be seen once installed. you just drive the freeze plugs in both ends and it doesn't matter if the cooler is blown or not it still works.
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Leave the EGR valve hooked up to lie to the computer and you should not get any codes, once the cooler is blocked off there is really no reason to remove the valve, people sell plugs or plates to cover the hole but again, they are just trying to sell you something that is not needed.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Leave the EGR valve hooked up to lie to the computer and you should not get any codes, once the cooler is blocked off there is really no reason to remove the valve, people sell plugs or plates to cover the hole but again, they are just trying to sell you something that is not needed.
Last edited by bobfbigman; 04-23-2012 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#18
The egr valve will just be a dummy, no exhaust gasses will pass through it anymore, the freeze plugs keep the exhaust gas from going through it, You would only be using the EGR cooler as a coolant path. cheapest way to do a delete and just as effective but there is no money to be made by doing it this way so that is why companys make a kit for them that does the same thing but they can charge you for some bling that will never be seen once installed. you just drive the freeze plugs in both ends and it doesn't matter if the cooler is blown or not it still works.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Leave the EGR valve hooked up to lie to the computer and you should not get any codes, once the cooler is blocked off there is really no reason to remove the valve, people sell plugs or plates to cover the hole but again, they are just trying to sell you something that is not needed.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Leave the EGR valve hooked up to lie to the computer and you should not get any codes, once the cooler is blocked off there is really no reason to remove the valve, people sell plugs or plates to cover the hole but again, they are just trying to sell you something that is not needed.
#19
On an 04 you shouldn't get any code, deleting or plugging the cooler is the only smart option, for states that make you keep them either spend crazy amount for a bullet proof cooler or use a couple freeze plugs in the stock cooler and they will never know what you have, it's known as a stealth delete, evn though its not really a delete its more like a disable. I have installed several of these and they work great, anyone that tells you keeping the EGR system is the best thing to do DOES NOT KNOW THE 6.0. plug that thing up it will save you tons over the life of the truck.
#20
What state are you from?? If there is no emissions testing for diesels then DELETE the EGR cooler. You will regret it later down the road if you dont. Also, like MDUB said, put your money in those ARPs. Once again, down the road you will be glad you did.
You seem to be doing your research and are 100% correct about getting some gauges. Dont go cheap on them..... i wouldnt want a $20 gauge protecting my thousands of dollars worth of motor. Im running ISSPRO EV2s and i love them. ISSPRO is an awesome company and really take care of their customers. You need a fuel pressure first off. Then i would go with EOT and ECT (Oil and Coolant Temp). Keep up the good work and maybe get us some pics of this rig!
You seem to be doing your research and are 100% correct about getting some gauges. Dont go cheap on them..... i wouldnt want a $20 gauge protecting my thousands of dollars worth of motor. Im running ISSPRO EV2s and i love them. ISSPRO is an awesome company and really take care of their customers. You need a fuel pressure first off. Then i would go with EOT and ECT (Oil and Coolant Temp). Keep up the good work and maybe get us some pics of this rig!