Have you tried rev-x? Just to see if it changes anything, bc your problems are when it's cold? Double check your ficm and the connections...

 

Yea my FICM is good and im not looking to rev-x because i want to get the problem fixed fully. I leave for Afghanistan in less than a week and just trying to make sure its going to run good for her and the baby while im gone.

 

From what your explaining... It sounds like injector/s sticking...

Need to get it on a good scanner and do a contribution test.

 

There is a video of it missing out.

Im taking it tomorrow to get it hooked up....... Dealership is my LAST option

 

This could be just stiction.. My truck did the same thing for a while but when it was cold out it would lope like a nasty big block until one day the miss didn't go away and became a dead miss, I had an injector come apart but I was able to fix it, the second one by the way, there is a tiny bolt and nut that hold the mag cups to the injector and the nut fell off so instead of the injector being activated the mag cups were allowed to move away from the injector body. A Ford tech at a good dealer told me he has seen alot of them like this and some times they don't find the nut, but they always replace the injector instead of repairing them, I clean the bolt and nut off with brakeclean and put locktite on the threads before reassembly. I haven't seen anyone else on here that has had this happen but I can't be the only one, Iv'e had 2 on the drivers side do this and I susspect I have one on the pass side right now doing the same thing so we are going to pull all of them out tommorow to see what is going on. My truck is an early 04 so I don't know if it is isolated to those trucks or not but it is something to look at, $40 for all the oring kits for both sides and so far it has fixed the problem, alot better than $230 for an injector. I will have to start a thread on this with some pics so people will know what I am talking about.

 

Cold running issues like that are ususally batteries, a FICM, or just a bad injector. Why are you so certain your FICM isn't bad? I have at least 2, if not 3 FICM's sitting on my shelf here that all read 48V across the board, but make the truck run like absolute GARBAGE when cold. One of them is so bad I can't start the truck without plugging it in, and when it finally fires, it will seriously cut cylinders out while it's running. It goes from 8, to 4 cylinders for a few seconds, then back. I wont even sell this FICM to anyone, including as a core. I would feel bad. Swapped another repaired 48V unit on, problem went right away.

I have the Ford diagnostic sheet for hard start/no start if you want me to email it to you, you can walk right through the whole thing if you want.

 

Based on my very limited experience, Mdub is right on the money. I had the same issue and it turned out to be batteries. Since replacing the batteries I installed an Edge Insight to watch my numbers. Ed at ficmrepair.com told me that low voltage from the batteries are one of the top killers of ficm's. I would think that low battery voltage may have harmed your ficm.

 

The FICM is easy enough to test to rule out, he is just very certain it isn't that. I just haven't read anywhere what the voltage readings were if it was tested, that's the only reason I asked. If he says it's not that, then I'm just assuming he tested it...!?

 

Yea i tested it and posted voltage cold and hot.

Went and got it diagnosed today and low and behold its another one of RCD awesome POS injectors. Ive got a misfire on cyl. 2. He checked all sensors also but the only thing he is finding is the injector on cyl. 2.

Im going to make a vid explaining why not to purchase anything from them. I have had the worst experiences with them. Not only product but customer service.

Spread the word RCD is a S%@!& hole company.

I knew it might of been an injector from the beginning but was talking myself out of it since they were just buzz tested not too long ago!!!!!!!!!!!!



Thanks for all the help guys.

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And i guess i never posted voltage or the FICM

It was 47 with the key on and 48.2 cranking

 

I also did the same thing and it fixed it for awile and then My FICM went out. I learned a trick that you can do , you can disconnect the FICM an pull off the valve covers the injector that has a high pressure oil leak at the top you will see it leaking.