Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels

number on my egr cooler?

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  #11  
Old 04-16-2012 | 09:09 PM
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Most people don't know that when you take out the EGR valve or unplug it you will lose fan operation. JMHO
 
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Old 04-16-2012 | 09:12 PM
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karls, you described my take-offs perfectly. looks like i should start saving money for the delete
 
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Old 04-17-2012 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidWulf
Most people don't know that when you take out the EGR valve or unplug it you will lose fan operation. JMHO
Only certain strategies are like this, it depends what flash is on your truck. Not all of them are like this, only a certain few. It's not really a bad idea to leave the EGR valve itself in place, just get the cooler off of there. The cooler is what is directing gasses to the valve, with the cooler gone the valve is just an ornament, but it will serve the function David is describing here, for certain strategies. However, my fan has only ever come on when I'm low on coolant, which was a fault of a blown EGR cooler... irony?

Originally Posted by 04powerstroke6.0l
karls, you described my take-offs perfectly. looks like i should start saving money for the delete
He also described my take-offs and I have a full delete. Compared to nearly every other diesel I've ever been in, the 6.0 is a laggy biatch. It is greatly improved through tuning, an EGR delete, and even more so with FICM tuning, but it's still a little laggy on bottom compared to most. I noticed the same thing as Karl, quicker EGT drop when I park the truck. That was the biggest improvement for me.
 
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Old 04-17-2012 | 02:14 PM
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Before I did the delete, I couldn't kick rocks in my own driveway from a standing start, now that its gone, no problem. There is still some lag, but not nearly as bad as it was. I will agree that some tunes wake up the bottom end more than others.
 
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Old 04-17-2012 | 07:45 PM
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how hard is it to do an egr cooler replacement? someone have a step by step write up? i have basic hand tools and a concrete pad without shelter. the truck is my "toy" so it doesn't have to be fixed and ready to run asap. the hardest thing i see is removing the turbo just because its heavy and hard to reach.how reliable would welding the egr cooler shut? i would think it would depend on the welder (equipment and person) and material as well. what would be best to use? stainless plate? mild steel? how thick?
 
  #16  
Old 04-17-2012 | 11:19 PM
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EGR Block-Off Kit - Diesel Tech - Diesel Power Magazine

This is a little outdated, but it gives you the general idea. Honestly, though, I'd get some gauges and verify the oil cooler condition, ALL of the stuff to do the EGR delete ends up coming off to do an oil cooler update.

Count on replacing EVERY exhaust bolt you touch during this evolution, I did and I live in a dry area. Also allow 12-16 hours if you aren't familiar with the Power Stroke. You Tube has some good turbo removal vids as well. Next, if you don't have emissions testing to endure, I wouldn't fiddle around with capping, plugging, or welding, just delete it and move on.
 
  #17  
Old 04-18-2012 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 04powerstroke6.0l
how hard is it to do an egr cooler replacement? someone have a step by step write up? i have basic hand tools and a concrete pad without shelter. the truck is my "toy" so it doesn't have to be fixed and ready to run asap. the hardest thing i see is removing the turbo just because its heavy and hard to reach.how reliable would welding the egr cooler shut? i would think it would depend on the welder (equipment and person) and material as well. what would be best to use? stainless plate? mild steel? how thick?
Stainless would be best, since the cooler is stainless. Can't really weld dissimilar materials together with a typical welder.

My first two EGR deletes took around 12 hours with a buddy. You will want an extra set of hands around to help you out for sure. The turbo removal was probably among the easiest parts of the project. The major PITA for me is always the up-pipe. More specifically is the removal of the stock up-pipe. I spent a couple hours alone on that last time, tracking tools down, reconfiguring my spine to get into certain places, and drinking a lot of beer.

Originally Posted by Karls03
if you don't have emissions testing to endure, I wouldn't fiddle around with capping, plugging, or welding, just delete it and move on.
What he said.
 
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