Hi All, I love all the info available on the forums regarding this 6.0, so I decided to take the plunge and do some work.

Everything went pretty smooth till start-up time. I had to do a lot of cranking, like in 10 - 30 sec bursts, then it did run finally for a min or two, really rough. After that, it died out and I haven't been able to even get it to crank now. I thought it might be batteries or starter, took both out and they tested fine. Also disconnected the ICP sensor, and still no cranking. I also tested the ficm and it showed 47+ volts.

Here is all I did: replaced headgaskets, had the heads resurfaced, new oil cooler, cleaned/anti-seize the turbo added updated feed line, new oil cooler, new standpipes/dummy plugs, updated fuel pressure spring, 6.4 banjo bolts, and updated STC fitting and all associated gaskets/seals.

Help! I've had this work truck down for four weeks now and I need her back!

Thanks in advance!

 

Check your IPR sensor, a lot of times when you replace the oil cooler, dirt/debris gets into the HPOP and finds its way into the IPR. Usually this dirt/debris destroys the IPR or clogs up the IPR screen.

You can also check for codes, another possibility is when you reassembled the stand pipes, you might of torn a o-ring/seal.

 

I did check for codes, nothing other than the egr being deleted. Would a clogged ipr or bad o-ring on the standpipe prevent it from turning over? I can pull her apart, but I'm very confused why it won't even turn over anymore.

 

Yes a damaged IPR or clogged IPR screen can cause a no start. And yes, a damaged o-ring can cause a no start.

Check the easiest thing first, the IPR. Remove it and inspect it. If you find the screen damaged/destroyed, then replace it. If its clogged, sometimes you can get away with cleaning the screen carefully.

 

Maybe I'm splitting hairs here, but it was turning over before, now it just goes clunk/click.. I know those things can cause a no-start, but could it be preventing it from cranking as well?

 

Clunk/click, like weak batteries?

 

Yeah, like weak batteries, but they are charged and tested good, one is brand new.

 

Always replace your batteries in pairs, your old one probably drained the new one down to the old one. Did you have them load tested? Even though your seeing 12.5v+ the amps might be low.

Try hooking up jumper cables to another vehicle, let that vehicle run while your cranking on your truck.

 

Yes, they were load tested, and I had a battery charger set to boost while cranking.

 

To me it sounds like its hydrolocked, if batts are good and if starter is good??? might have to pull the fan and schroud back off and use a prybar to try to turn motor over backwards to see if it turns. the easiest way to clear cylinders is to pull all the glowplugs and crank it over, if there is fluid in there it will come shooting out. if its fuel then there is probably a bad oring on injectot, or failed injector, if its coolant then head would have to come off again. if its oil????