Just bought an 05 I have around $3600 for upgrades. I've been told I don't headstuds anf gaskets untill my ft lbs of tourque starts getting up there. I want to put stage 2 inectors, SCT programmer, 4" MBRP exhaust, FASS fuel system, and gauges. I am wondering what the thoughs are on the headstuds.

 

My first investment would be Head Studs and EGR/Cooler Delete.


Luke

 

I have almost a 100K on mine on the original head gaskets and I don't plan to stud it until I push one out. That being said, there is no hardline "If-Then" scenario that will lead to HG failure, although, a good rule of thumb is to not hammer the loud pedal before it reaches operating temp. Your turbo will thank you if you shut down at 400* EGT or lower.

Personally, SCT (hunt tune writers till you find what you like, avoid smokey programs), 4" turbo back, ECT, EOT, EGT gauges to start. (may be ahead buying an SCT Livewire with gauges), and an AiRaid filter (more for re-useablity than anything else). If you can ditch the cat, may as well ditch the EGR cooler (now you NEED an SCT with a CEL delete). Depending on your ECT (coolant temp) and EOT (oil temp) spread, this would be a GREAT time to change the engine oil cooler, it's right there. (There are threads here about EOT/ECT deltas and when to change.)

From there, see how you like it. This is pretty much where my 03 is and I get a stupid grin whenever I drill it!

Finally, if you have a one-wheel peel, get a Detroit Locker, while I'm not too crazy about my Detroit True Trac, I seem to be the only person willing to say so.

 

The dealership didn't do a full EGR delete they just plugged it. Is that ok or should i go ahead and do the full delete. If I can avoid doing headstuds I'll be able to throw in Stage 2 injectors and a fuel system. I think that one of the injectors is sticking because in the morning on first start up its rough takes a bit to turn over and kinda idles like a 7.3. My end goal is to make this truck as indestructable as possible right off the get go then start making it get up and go. Thanks for all the answers so far much appreciated.

 

What exactly is a stage 2 injector? Who's this by? With 6.0's, we typically refer to injector by body sizes and now more commonly you'll see body size accompanied by nozzle size and the percentage larger than stock.. For example, stockers are 135cc/stock. 135cc is the volume of the body, and the nozzle is stock sized. The next upgrades are usually something like 155cc/50% or 75%, then 190cc/75%/100%, one of those, and so on. A 190cc injector will supply enough fuel to push around 550rwhp and above.

I basically wouldn't run any larger injector without headstuds. I think you'll find running a hot tune by itself long enough will be enough to push gaskets in most cases. Some get lucky... Karl, papachuck, these guys are running hot tunes and on stock gaskets/headbolts.

$3600 is enough to buy you injectors basically and nothing else... so you're going to have to rethink this budget a bit.

You could just take a gamble and spend a little less to have your current injectors built, but again, it's a gamble.

 

Thanks I was just asking around to see if i could squeeze injectors in the budget. So basically with what I'm working with i should throw headstuds, gaskets, exhaust, tip, programmer, intake system, and EGR delete kit. Are there any specific brands I should be looking at for these parts or website. Because I'm looking at XDP right now for all this.

 

Yes. Probably going to be getting parts from all over the place.

Headstuds you want ARP's, you can usually find around $400, maybe a hair more.
Gaskets, get from your dealer, or another dealer, but you want OEM Ford gaskets. Going to need to figure out what gaskets you need too, 18mm dowels or 20mm dowels.
Set some money aside for headwork, ie, decking, pressure testing, magnaflux, valve job, etc.
Exhaust you can get whatever suits your fancy, from where ever.
EGR delete, there are a dozen different ways to skin a cat here. Anywhere from $5 by welding in freeze plugs into the current EGR cooler, or up to $1200 for a ported intake manifold that completely eliminates the coolant flowing through the intake manifold all together. I have a $185 river city diesel kit I got on ebay, it eliminates the cooler, the valve, and has a new solid up-pipe. Brand is up to you though, lots of options here.

As for some of the prices and parts, check with some of the sponsors here, they offere discounts for members and usually have good deals.

For the programmer, SCT something or other, whatever you want, they all hold the same tunes. The key here is buying it from one of the tune writers, since they usually throw in free tunes with it.

My first suggestion is before you hit the "buy it now" over there, spend a few days reading through some of the threads here and gain a little knowledge on what you're about to do. There are a wealth of good threads here with info on all of this stuff.

Welcome to DB!

 

Thanks again for helping me out here, quick question. In the morning when i first start it up it takes awhile to turn over and then sits there and lopes for a good bit till it warms up any ideas on that. I'm just asking you here because i'm new to forums and haven'y figured my way around it yet.

 

No problem.

First things first, how old are your batteries? Does it seem to crank over slow? Does it get easier if you plug it in?

I would have the batteries load tested somewhere (advanced auto or the likes do it for free). If one is bad... get two NEW one's. Not just one, replace them as a pair. Once you know your batteries are good (amazing how poorly they'll run with weak batteries.) test your FICM (fuel injection control module). At the top of the 6.0 page there is a "sticky" at the top that will explain how to do this, it's VERY simple. You will need an extra set of hands though (gf will work here, all they need to do is turn the key when you tell them, still trying to figure out how to get my dog to do it for me). Your FICM voltage may be low. The sticky will explain all of it, but it is the result of MANY 6.0 hard starting and poor running issues. It is best to test it when the engine is dead cold too, as it will put more of a load on it.

 

Your on one of the better forums for a new guy, some of the other ones your just fresh meat for the internet ninjas. If you take a little time and scan through the old threads you will find a ton of good information, I would say just about every question has been asked and answered. These trucks are very fussy about maint. Some seem to have issues stock and some have little or no problems running hot tunes and being abused, some people will say the early ones have all the problems and the later ones were improved and much better. I dont buy that myself, I think it is more luck of the draw. I have an 03 and it has been a great truck, its had 2 injectors replaced and the starter. I still have the stock headgaskets and bolts, it still has the gold coolant, the EGR, the original oil cooler and the turbo has never been out of it. This was my farm truck until I retired and it shows it scars, now it just gets me around and pulls my 36ft 5th wheel 15000lbs.
If you havnt done it yet change the oil, oil filters and fuel filters. Use "good" oil and motorcraft filters and check your air filter.
I would say dont just throw money at parts, go ahead and get a 4in turbo back exhaust without the cat and muffler then get the SCT and some custom tunes. Tell them you have stock headbolts and tell them what you want from your truck. Keep putting money in the "truck" fund for studs if you need them. I am at about 200000mi with about 80000 of that running extreme race for DD. My plan was to replace things as I broke things, Ive been very lucky! Keep in mind you need to blow the carbon out now and then but use a little common sense, doing 4wd boosted launches at every stopsign and 5min long braketorque burnouts are a different story.