I keep getting mixed reviews about what to do. I want to keep my ford as long as possible but need to be pointed in the right direction. So... I have 04 6.0 non studded with EGR delete and a coolant filter. But I'm wanting to prolong the heads and injectors as long as possible. Would it be more efficient to run an Air Dog 100 or 150 as apposed to the Driven Diesel RR? I am looking to install Pyro, FP, and Boost gauges at the same time? Thoughts, opinions, criticism? ?

Or can y'all give me a link for the information?

 

It's a valid question. What are your plans for this and any other mods? Staying at stock power level? An airdog would probably be just fine. There's certainly nothing wrong with doing a RR either though.

I prefer reading fuel pressure from the back of the heads, and ideally that's the best spot to adjust fuel pressure from too, but many have used an airdog with the upgraded banjo bolts in the front of the heads with success. I think either way you can make a good system.

 

I pull my camper around to all my jobs. It is a hair under 16000 and other stuff when I'm home. So yes stock to a mild tune is where I want to stay. I don't want overkill. In theory only pure fuel would be flowing to the injectors after the Air dog install and the RR would be a wasted 650 that I could put towards gauges and Sct tuner.

 

It's not really wasted, no. They do serve the same function, in a sense, but they do it differently. Some say the RR setup is a better method, since it's regulating fuel AFTER the injectors, unlike the AD2 which is regulating way back on the pump itself.

If it was me, I'd run the AD2, then run a x-over line between the two rear heads to make the heads one big loop of fuel, and put a "T" in the middle of the line and put your fuel pressure gauge pickup there. That way you know the pressure at the lowest point in the system, then just adjust accordingly on the AD2.

You can get RR's cheaper than that. Dozers Diesel has a cool setup that's less than that.

 

Thanks will check that out for sure! But doesn't Ad2 replace the ford factory fuel pump?? I travel a lot and don't have parts stores like we need on every corner. I was mainly going for the 100 or 150 for usability and filtration?? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Ok gotcha. You can get a pusher pump like the 100 or 150. If you do that, I would definitely go for the RR. The AD2 does replace the factory pump, but it also has a built in adjustable regulator, so it is a RR as well.

 

OK cool.. on the website of both gauges it says not to use a gauge full time. So how do you constantly monitor fuel pressure while traveling?

 

If your not going big with the power the AD2 would work great and you wouldnt need the constant fuel pressure gauge, Im going with the AD2 for my 7.3l, Ive heard nothing but good things about it. The inline pressure gauge is normally only needed when running higher horsepower, but if youre going to keep it close to stock then you wouldnt need it.

 

Don't waste your money on the RR. Get the AD system of you choice, pull fuel pressure readings from the test port, get the blue spring upgrade for the fuel pressure regulator and run the 6.4L banjos. IF you find addition fuel system upgrades are needed THEN consider adding the RR system. You can improve on this just a bit by adding a fuel sump. This should prevent any 1/4 tank issues some people have reported in the past with the "draw straw" used with fuel pump systems.

People will tell you to do both AD and a RR but WHY. Running an aftermarket setup like an AD will be more beneficial removing air, water and the extra filtration over a standard RR system. Adding both right out the gate isn't cost effective.

I run an AD100 with a sump, spring and 6.4 banjos. No fuel issues here.

 

Except when you read fuel pressure at the bowl, you have no idea what fuel pressure is behind the last two injectors...

Just food for thought. Really wouldn't be much more work to read behind the heads. An extra T fitting and an extra x-over line...