Mpg's
#51
03-21-2012 | 08:51 AM
Diesel Fan
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 94
Likes: 10
From: Ephratah, New York
No I haven't got any codes... I checked the ebp tube and it was clogged so I cleaned it out... And the sensor... But from what I understand my stradegy doesn't use it... When I cleaned the turbo I forgot to plug the maf back in and man did that turbo scream!!! Where is the map sensor located?
ok if your talking about the intake elbow that conects on the top front of the intake manifold? were the intercooler pipe ataches too on the drivers side? mine is hollow and has no butterfly vavle...
i havent pulled the up pipe and y pipe to check for leaks i just looked in there with a mirror and didnt see any carbon...and i cant hear it leak, i would imagine you would hear it hissing...
how do i go about doing the vgt relearn? maybe the unison ring was too pitted and not letting the vains open? but i got it pretty clean without grinding away any surface...
if i take off from a light probilly half throttle, it doesnt start building boost until i hit 15-20 mph and the egts are pretty high... im compaping the egts to my friends 2006 6.0
stock to stock, my buddies will be 100 yards ahead of me if we took off at same time at a light...
i wished one of you guys were closer id drive it to ya to take a look so you know what i mean...
i havent pulled the up pipe and y pipe to check for leaks i just looked in there with a mirror and didnt see any carbon...and i cant hear it leak, i would imagine you would hear it hissing...
how do i go about doing the vgt relearn? maybe the unison ring was too pitted and not letting the vains open? but i got it pretty clean without grinding away any surface...
if i take off from a light probilly half throttle, it doesnt start building boost until i hit 15-20 mph and the egts are pretty high... im compaping the egts to my friends 2006 6.0
stock to stock, my buddies will be 100 yards ahead of me if we took off at same time at a light...
i wished one of you guys were closer id drive it to ya to take a look so you know what i mean...
I found this, however I have never done it myself so wait and see what Mike thinks.
KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.
There is also a procedure to clean and check the VGT actuator, I'll try to find it when I wake up....cant think straight, too sleepy. Off to bed.
I a little baffled, I cant believe this truck is running this bad and hasnt thrown any codes.
Last edited by papachuck; 03-21-2012 at 08:55 AM.
#52
03-21-2012 | 10:03 AM
BOMBARDIER
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,208
Likes: 630
The Map is on a small bracket screwed to the top of the heater box, it has a hose that runs down to the intake manifold. make sure the hose and the manifold fitting are not blocked. Unplug the sensor with the truck running and see if you hear a difference.
Did you put the Motorcraft Anti-sieze on the unison ring and the wipe it off?
I found this, however I have never done it myself so wait and see what Mike thinks.
KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.
There is also a procedure to clean and check the VGT actuator, I'll try to find it when I wake up....cant think straight, too sleepy. Off to bed.
I a little baffled, I cant believe this truck is running this bad and hasnt thrown any codes.
Did you put the Motorcraft Anti-sieze on the unison ring and the wipe it off?
I found this, however I have never done it myself so wait and see what Mike thinks.
KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.
There is also a procedure to clean and check the VGT actuator, I'll try to find it when I wake up....cant think straight, too sleepy. Off to bed.
I a little baffled, I cant believe this truck is running this bad and hasnt thrown any codes.
#53
03-21-2012 | 02:25 PM
Diesel Bomber
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 144
Just a little note here, I have seen brand new Unison rings for sale for these turbos, think they were like $40 don't quote me on that price but they were inexspensive.
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Sorry, just looked it up on ebay, $100 brand new, $122 from Tousley Ford, part #3C3Z-6Z885-A
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just to be clear here, the butterfly would be under the elbo in another housing that attached right to the intake, you can't see it by just removing the tube attached to elbow. the easiest way to tell is to pull the electrical connector that goes to that housing and see if there are any electrical contacts in it, if there aren't then it is a dummy setup, if there are connections inside the plug area then you have the butterfly, its worth checking out, trying to take care of the free stuff first so not throwing money at it.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Sorry, just looked it up on ebay, $100 brand new, $122 from Tousley Ford, part #3C3Z-6Z885-A
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
ok if your talking about the intake elbow that conects on the top front of the intake manifold? were the intercooler pipe ataches too on the drivers side? mine is hollow and has no butterfly vavle...
i havent pulled the up pipe and y pipe to check for leaks i just looked in there with a mirror and didnt see any carbon...and i cant hear it leak, i would imagine you would hear it hissing...
how do i go about doing the vgt relearn? maybe the unison ring was too pitted and not letting the vains open? but i got it pretty clean without grinding away any surface...
if i take off from a light probilly half throttle, it doesnt start building boost until i hit 15-20 mph and the egts are pretty high... im compaping the egts to my friends 2006 6.0
stock to stock, my buddies will be 100 yards ahead of me if we took off at same time at a light...
i wished one of you guys were closer id drive it to ya to take a look so you know what i mean...
i havent pulled the up pipe and y pipe to check for leaks i just looked in there with a mirror and didnt see any carbon...and i cant hear it leak, i would imagine you would hear it hissing...
how do i go about doing the vgt relearn? maybe the unison ring was too pitted and not letting the vains open? but i got it pretty clean without grinding away any surface...
if i take off from a light probilly half throttle, it doesnt start building boost until i hit 15-20 mph and the egts are pretty high... im compaping the egts to my friends 2006 6.0
stock to stock, my buddies will be 100 yards ahead of me if we took off at same time at a light...
i wished one of you guys were closer id drive it to ya to take a look so you know what i mean...
Last edited by bobfbigman; 03-21-2012 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#55
03-21-2012 | 06:08 PM
Diesel Bomber
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 144
#56
03-21-2012 | 07:06 PM
Thread Starter
|
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 247
Likes: 8
From: Erie pa
#57
03-22-2012 | 08:37 AM
BOMBARDIER
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,208
Likes: 630
Mine is doing this exact same thing right now. I can still build over 20psi with ease, but I guess it would depend on how bad it is. There is a lot of noise though, I would think he would notice that. Mine is also spraying oil everywhere because of it. Underside of my hood is soaked and my drivers side headlight has a film on it. Around 13psi you can start to hear it then it just gets louder from there. Need to order the metal CAC pipe and boots for that side. Always something!
#58
03-22-2012 | 05:26 PM
Thread Starter
|
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 247
Likes: 8
From: Erie pa
