Little DIY High Idle for you guys
#1
Little DIY High Idle for you guys
Keep in mind this is on a 2007 (same wires for '05-7), but it's about a 10 minute job (including going back to the toolbox a couple times. Also, I took the pics after it was done.
What you will need:
1/4" or 3/8" DR ratchet
10mm socket
Wire stripper/crimper (actual stripper will extend job time to 30-45min)
Butt connector (without upfitters you will need about a 3' length of wire and a switch with a second butt connector and appropriate connectors for the switch)
1-2 beers (optional)
First you will need to locate the PTO wire bundle under the dash behind the e-brake release handle and find the Purple w/ Green stripe
If you have upfitter switches skip to next step
Find the lonely White w/ Blue stripe wire under the opposite side of dash above gas pedal (this is a +12V wire when ignition is on that goes to absolutely nothing) and connect these 2 wires to the switch which is mounted wherever you feel like at the moment (inside the cab is recommended but to each their own)
Back to the upfitters. Pull off your dash access panel and remove the 4 bolts that hold in the fuse box (as you can see I'm not cheap on tools)
Carefully pull the box out and locate the harness for the switches (4 orange bundled together)(notice that there are 2 18ga wires, these are AUX #3 and #4, and 2 ~12ga, these are AUX #1 and #2)
Pick either AUX #3 or #4 because of the lowered amperage, I went with #4 just because of it being closest to the shifter it's easy to flip it and do a neutral check, strip the wires and apply butt connector (or solder/tape if that tickles your pickle better)
Do a test run
Button her back up and enjoy
What you will need:
1/4" or 3/8" DR ratchet
10mm socket
Wire stripper/crimper (actual stripper will extend job time to 30-45min)
Butt connector (without upfitters you will need about a 3' length of wire and a switch with a second butt connector and appropriate connectors for the switch)
1-2 beers (optional)
First you will need to locate the PTO wire bundle under the dash behind the e-brake release handle and find the Purple w/ Green stripe
If you have upfitter switches skip to next step
Find the lonely White w/ Blue stripe wire under the opposite side of dash above gas pedal (this is a +12V wire when ignition is on that goes to absolutely nothing) and connect these 2 wires to the switch which is mounted wherever you feel like at the moment (inside the cab is recommended but to each their own)
Back to the upfitters. Pull off your dash access panel and remove the 4 bolts that hold in the fuse box (as you can see I'm not cheap on tools)
Carefully pull the box out and locate the harness for the switches (4 orange bundled together)(notice that there are 2 18ga wires, these are AUX #3 and #4, and 2 ~12ga, these are AUX #1 and #2)
Pick either AUX #3 or #4 because of the lowered amperage, I went with #4 just because of it being closest to the shifter it's easy to flip it and do a neutral check, strip the wires and apply butt connector (or solder/tape if that tickles your pickle better)
Do a test run
Button her back up and enjoy
Last edited by Diesel_Daddy6.0; 02-14-2012 at 12:14 PM.
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#3
#5
Upfitters are those switches that say AUX1/AUX2/AUX3/AUX4... they're used for hooking up external things that need power, it's actually a really cool setup.
If you guys have ever noticed, under the hood near the degas bottle, there are 4 wires there, I think blue, red, white, and black?... Those wires run into the truck and terminate right near the e-brake pedal, near that PTO bundle that Diesel_Daddy is talking about... also where all these upfitters wires terminate... so if you were so inclined, you could connect one or some or all of the upfitter wires to those 4 wires that run under the hood and wha-la, you have switched power from a relay to under the hood now. This is how I hooked up my fog lights on the front of my truck... just ran power wire out to them, and grounded them to the bumper. Simple!
There is also a second PTO wire you can attach to the upfitter to obtain a different high idle. There is a "battery charging" high idle too, that one was designed to keep the batteries charged and will fluctuate between 1200 and 2400rpms. I went with the straight 1200RPM setup like Diesel_Daddy did. This not only raises RPM's to build heat quicker, it also locks the torque converter in the trans to help put a slight load on the engine.
This mod is highly recommended for those who idle excessively or are running equipment off the PTO on the truck (pretty sure us F250 and F350 guys don't have this option, though it is built into the trans anyways).
If you guys have ever noticed, under the hood near the degas bottle, there are 4 wires there, I think blue, red, white, and black?... Those wires run into the truck and terminate right near the e-brake pedal, near that PTO bundle that Diesel_Daddy is talking about... also where all these upfitters wires terminate... so if you were so inclined, you could connect one or some or all of the upfitter wires to those 4 wires that run under the hood and wha-la, you have switched power from a relay to under the hood now. This is how I hooked up my fog lights on the front of my truck... just ran power wire out to them, and grounded them to the bumper. Simple!
There is also a second PTO wire you can attach to the upfitter to obtain a different high idle. There is a "battery charging" high idle too, that one was designed to keep the batteries charged and will fluctuate between 1200 and 2400rpms. I went with the straight 1200RPM setup like Diesel_Daddy did. This not only raises RPM's to build heat quicker, it also locks the torque converter in the trans to help put a slight load on the engine.
This mod is highly recommended for those who idle excessively or are running equipment off the PTO on the truck (pretty sure us F250 and F350 guys don't have this option, though it is built into the trans anyways).
#6
Karl, the upfitter switches are the switches right under the climate control ***** (AUX 1-4), the ones installed from the factory are pre-wired and all you have to do is hook up your accessory to the appropriate one. My AUX 1 (because of the amperage draw) will likely end up being for an air compressor when I put my helper bags and air horns in.
#7
Yes that's another thing I forgot to add, AUX1/AUX2 are 30amp, and AUX3/AUX4 are each 10 amps.
These are for 05-07 trucks only unfortunately.
You guys with the 03-04 trucks should look at the F650 lower dashes that you can add on, those are pretty cool and you can put all sorts of cool switches/gauges on those too. I think the F650 lower dash is ~$100 if memory serves.
These are for 05-07 trucks only unfortunately.
You guys with the 03-04 trucks should look at the F650 lower dashes that you can add on, those are pretty cool and you can put all sorts of cool switches/gauges on those too. I think the F650 lower dash is ~$100 if memory serves.
#8
Karl, the upfitter switches are the switches right under the climate control ***** (AUX 1-4), the ones installed from the factory are pre-wired and all you have to do is hook up your accessory to the appropriate one. My AUX 1 (because of the amperage draw) will likely end up being for an air compressor when I put my helper bags and air horns in.
Yes that's another thing I forgot to add, AUX1/AUX2 are 30amp, and AUX3/AUX4 are each 10 amps.
These are for 05-07 trucks only unfortunately.
You guys with the 03-04 trucks should look at the F650 lower dashes that you can add on, those are pretty cool and you can put all sorts of cool switches/gauges on those too. I think the F650 lower dash is ~$100 if memory serves.
These are for 05-07 trucks only unfortunately.
You guys with the 03-04 trucks should look at the F650 lower dashes that you can add on, those are pretty cool and you can put all sorts of cool switches/gauges on those too. I think the F650 lower dash is ~$100 if memory serves.