Fill out your sig so we have all the info and mods to your truck makes it alittle easier... From what I hear it could also be your oil cooler? Do you have access to a scanner? If so check you eot and ect...

 

would a bad oil cooler make it blow coolant out of the degas bottle? it did it again tonight after a 25 mile trip on the highway. i checked it when we got where we were going and there was a little coolant. when we got home same miles on the highway it had more. i don't get it last night i took it and did probably 20 miles and beat on it and it was bone dry. now i drive it gentle and it blows out coolant. when i bought the truck it was fine no coolant leaking anywhere after test drive and all. i got it home and it had dripped a few drops. when i picked up the truck the dealer insisted that the truck was fine (it was all dry under the hood when i got it) and wanted me to sign a waiver because of the chip (still not sure what it has for a chip trying to find a reader) i signed the waiver because everything was fine you mean to tell me that it blew the head gasket blew on the way home? i don't think so now that i think of about it i think they were trying to cover up that something was wrong. i'm hoping since the waiver said go easy because of chip and nothing about head gasket i can go after them. i don't trust their mechanics anymore and want to use one of my own now. keep the ideas coming i'm willing to try anything. i've had this truck a whopping 3 days.

 

When the oil cooler goes bad your resevor fills with a milky white mix of oil and water. U will know when that goes bad. Also your oil will get low because its being pumped into your coolant system. U might try putting a new cap on the coolant system. I have heard that they are only good for a few times poping off then they need to be changed. But since the truck has a chip its building more boost than a stock. Since these motors only have 4 bolts per cyl instead of the normal 6 on other motors make these ones not like to keep the heads down unless they have studs. It might be just a small leak and slowly building pressure in the system. I would look into doing the hg test, Or take it back.

 

up date...
took my truck to my cousin today he's not a diesel tech guy but he is a mechanic and he knows some about diesel. he went threw what he could do and found that most likely has the wrong coolant. he said the coolant was weak. he checked the oil for coolant and all looked good. i contacted the dealer and they want me to bring the truck back so they can take a look and see if they should take out some coolant. at this point i decided to take it somewhere else to get a second opinion. wednesday it goes to a different shop. the guy went to school for diesel and was the top go to guy at our local ford dealer before they pissed him off and he went out on his own. he comes highly recommended. he is gonna go threw it and see if he can find out what is wrong so right now i'm hoping for the best. praying its not the worst. my cousin also suggested that we change the cap. but i had already learned that from you guys. i will keep you posted when i find out more wednesday. thanks again everyone for all your help. you have all been more than a big help.

 

Can you take some pictures under the hood. Specifically down in the valley (I want to see if you have an EGR cooler still), and around the valve covers as much as possible, I want to see if you have headstuds or bolts.

6.0's don't have "chips"... programmers only. Most of them are crap, they just trick the PCM into adding timing and fuel without really "tuning" it...

No code reader is going to tell you what is on there, and now you can't even re-tune it with another tuner (well you could, but you're not going to have a "stock file" to save). That truck needs to be brought back to the dealer and flashed back to stock, then you need to go buy a good tuner like an SCT with custom tunes.

You're not losing a LOT of coolant just yet. FWIW, when you lose coolant the lame-o gauges on the dash aren't going to tell you squat. They're not really even "gauges".... they're all but useless. They'll show the same temp on the "gauge" over a real spread of something like 75*'s. Get some real gauges in there. I'd recommend fuel pressure (0-100psi), ECT (engine coolant temp) EOT (engine oil temp), a pyro if you're going to continue running tunes and call it a day for gauges. A coolant flush and a coolant filter should also be at the top of your list of things to do.

What are your plans for the truck? Grocery getter? Heavy hauler? DD? Weekend warrior? How much power do you think you'll want down the road, or is just a tune good? (It never is for anyone...haha).

Your situation is most likely not the cap or the bottle, but I would replace them anyways after hearing your description about them.

Your issue could be an EGR cooler, or headgaskets. Typically these problems come AFTER the oil cooler is plugging up. It is usually the source of most issues with the 6.0. You can read more about this, as it's a whole topic on it's own, just search around here. I've beaten the topic to death about the coolant debacle etc....

Some blame the coolant, others blame the sand casting in the blocks... tough call.

What we DO KNOW, is a coolant flush, a new oil cooler, an EGR delete (if you live in a place that allows this), a coolant filter and some new coolant will set you straight and drastically lower the chances of headgasket failure.

 

Thanks. So if i bring it to ford and have them flash it back i will be able to keep my stock setting when i buy a new tuner? I will take those pics either in my lunch or when i get out before i bring it to the new mechanic. I plan on using thie truck as a daily driver but also to tow my 19 foot boat and haul my tractor from job site to job site as needed. I also would like to have thr ability to get up and go at the sane time too. Once i figure out the coolant problem i planned on gettinga new tank and cap.

 

Right, they'll flash it to stock, and you'll lose whatever is on there. When you get an SCT and load a tune for the first time, it will go through a "save" of your stock file. You can even dump that stock file to your computer of choice as well. Without that stock file initially on there, it will have nothing to save, so you can just keep writing over whatever is there again and again, but never be able to go back to stock.

 

talked to the mechanic today..... he could not get the truck to leak coolant at all he tried all day. i put a new cap on before i went there and it was all bone dry around it when i got there. he tried everything and everything checked out. head gasket is good along with egr and oil cooler. he did say it has the wrong coolant so i am gonna have him change that out some time soon. the only thing he did find wrong was the right rear axle seal was leaking bad. and it needed a rotor. he had it all almost back togeather when i got out of work today. will be picking it up tommorow after work cant wait. thank you all for your help.

 

glad it worked out

 

picked the truck up after work. guy was great. he didn't charge me to go threw the truck top to bottom. he only charged me parts and the labor to do the axle seal and it was actually the caliper. only cost me 273.37 not to bad i was figuring 500 or more for everything including looking at the truck. still trying to figure out the tuner thing he says that it is chipped i tried to explain that i was gonna flash it back to stock and put a new tuner in it. i tried to tell him what you said about there not actually being a real "chip" in it and it just having been tuned. i think i am going to go with the sct livewire. is 571 a good price?

also the mechanic and his son both fell in love with the truck. they said they can't believe how nice it is and that it has some serious ***** the way it is now. i just wanna be able to control my tunes.