hello guys im back.. after getting to know my 7.3 really well i went out and bought me something else to drive me crazy.. Lets get to the point my 2005 f-350 6.0 automatic 2wd stock truck with 134000 miles wont start, go fiqure.. in the begining i bought the truck and it ran great after 2k miles the erg cooler went, now since it was just replaced 2months prior i got it fixed under warrantee the shop said the turbo was bad and it needed head gaskets,, haha so i replaced the turbo and performed the hero test and discovered the gaskets were good as the degas bottle had only 10psi under load happy i drove the truck for 2 days and when parked at familys house for a couple of hrs it would not restart soooo. i checked ficm and got 47 koeo and 43 when turning it over, sent ficm in to be repaired got it back and put on truck still no start but it sounds like it hitting on 2 injectors, changed oil and filter as the shop who did egr stuff did not do it, oil filter was terrible... ok so as for codes well i got p0335 from cranking it so much and thats it. getting alittle smoke when cranking. abilene diesel injector service had the truck for a few days and told me the hpop was good and putting out plenty of pressure but needed 8 injectors, crazy as it was running fines before i figured it was the ficm that would not let 6 injectors pass the buzz test.. while my ficm was in the mail they put a reman ficm on it and still no start.. i brought the truck home to fix myself..its getting fuel at the filter up top.. plus the truck has got new fuel filters.. batteries are on the charger when cranking.. lets see.. i have tried unplugging ips and still no start.. checked all fuses and relays, checked for chaffing on wire looms, so now what...

 

when cranking for long time does the oil presure guage move,it should. I am thinking high presure oil leak. Did they replace the oil cooler when they fixed the EGR cooler? plugged oil cooler is what causes egr cooler failure.

 

Check the connections on the ficm, make sure they are clipped in good.

 

also, make sure the IPR wire is still connected... when i was messing with my FICM i pulled the IPR wire out by accident. The FICM wires and IPR wire are intertwined.

 

as far as i know the oil cooler did not get replaced, i do have lpo in the cab, and i will check ficm connection this morning, even with starting aid the engine will not start..but still hitting on 2or 3 injectors,just not enough to start..

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i have a guage i made to use testing for hpo on my 7.3 having a problem finding a fitting to fit in the ips port, its a metric 11 mm ive discovered, any advice on that would help as i could then check hpo myself and see whats really going on..

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update: using bluepoint multimeter i found i am getting 1.5 volts at ips, should mean im getting hpo.. also checked ficm again and it great.. 48 at the key on and 48.5 at crank.. still no dts.. now getting 3 injectors hitting

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ill be damned if i can find a fitting to fit in the ips hole on this 6.0 what gives

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just a thought.. i keep getting the p0335 dts, but ive read thats from cranking alot. is it likely that cps is the problem. any way check it..

 

I'll bet it's a high pressure oil leak. Do you have access to a scanner? If so, check ICP desired vs. ICP actual. If you want to do the air test, you can put that on the port of the HPOP, under the turbo. You will also need to rig up a wire harness to the IPR valve and apply 12V to command it close. A scanner can only command it to 85%, not 100% like you need.

 

im beginning to think hpo as well, even though the voltage test at ipc checked out.. here is where i believe i can test for hpo, as on the 7.3 i could remove a oil port on the head and screw in a high pressure gauge, mine is rated for 5k, i know i can do the same on the 6.0 but i can not find the fitting to go in the hole the ipc came out of, i have been surfing the web for days and only found one site but im not sure if it is the correct size, any of you out there have a site for me to go to please let me know.. i have been all over my town and no luck, seeing as i work in the oil field i would think it would be a easy find but heck no.. over to you.. Mdub707 i will perform the air test when i get back off hitch.. thanks..

 

Testing the voltage on the ICP sensor just verifies the sensor is good. Another way to do this is to unplug the sensor and start the truck. With it unplugged, it defaults to some generic settings allowing you to limp it to a dealer etc. If it was a truck that had a no-start situation and then started, it'd probably safe to say that was it. However the sensor testing good via a voltage test only tells us that the sensor itself is good, and nothing else. So desired ICP is probably in check, however we need to see what actual ICP is. Just because the sensor is telling the truck to have a certain ICP, doesn't mean it can actually do it, due to a mechanical failure of some sort (bad HPOP, leaking o-rings, etc.)

I'll see if I can find a picture of where to attach for air testing.

 

You can thank me later...

DTS Articles - 6.0L ICP System Leaks

 

A thanks is indeed in order,, thank you.. funny thing.. see i get the idea of an air test and i've just found out where to test at a second location ie. hpop....my problem is i can not locate the proper type of fitting to thread in to the icp hole,, i see one in the picture and that is what im looking for, but nowhere can i find a part number or dealer to sell me one.. this time thanks in advance..