hello my diesel was running rough for awhile then it started runing alot better again, so i started thinking of what was diffrent and i thought it was BP diesel because everytime i go to speedway my truck runs alot better. I know most of you will say quit putting bp diesel in it i realize that but what is causing it to do this. Also it still runs alittle rough even with speedway diesel so im wondering if thats a symptom of a dirty fuel filter? I bought the filters but had to order the 36mm socket so thats what im waiting on. Some of the symptoms are smoke and bogging. And i was told a weak battery will throw off the ficm but i had my batteries test and they was good. Just need some new input. I was really thinking it was my glow plugs or injectors but im just dumbfounded now. So any help would be great. I live in ohio so it does get pretty cold so i always try to let it warm up for atleast 15 minutes if possible.

 

plug in the heater block over night....you dont need the socket but a big crescent wrench would work fine as well. replace both fuel filters one on top and another driver side frame rail.

 

Going to need more info about the truck. Read the sticky at the top of the page for the new guys asking tech questions.

I hope you got Motorcraft or International fuel filters too.

 

thanks i do plug in the heater every night its gonna be below 40 degrees. Yes i bought the motorcraft filters and the truck is a 05 f250 6.0l with 148000 miles. when it smokes its white smoke i wish it was black but its not. i got in it last night and only let it warm up for bout 5 minutes and it really bogged and smoked until it got up to temp then it ran good i wont say great but i ran good. i really hope its not anything to serious. also im kinda a rookie when it comes to diesels but i think the truck is completly stock except a leveling kit and 35 inch tires. so i guess another question is what should the first thing i do to it be.

 

How old are the batteries in it? I would start by having the batteries load tested. Then I would test the FICM. That will be a good foundation to start from. Batteries can be load tested for free at a local auto parts store. FICM can be tested with you and a buddy with a multi-meter for free in about 15 to 20 minutes for a first timer.

 

I would also pull and clean the EGR valve, they can cause some nasty running if they are sticking

 

i had the batteries tested at advance auto they both tested good. so my next things are to test the ficm. Also you said clean the egr valve where exactly is that located and what do i look for sorry dont mean to sound dumb but im just learning this stuff. Thanks

 

Right there, it's held on with 2 8mm bolts. It might be a PITA to get it out, some of them are gummed up pretty good, you may need a pry bar. Get it out, remove the rubber o-rings off of it, and clean it really well with a toothbrush/soft wire brush and some carb cleaner. DO NOT use brake cleaner.


Here's what a dirty one looks like next to a clean one:

 

thanks for the pics thats a great refrence i really appreciate it. I will do that this weekend right after i change my fuel filters. Then will test the ficm but i think that will be a little more difficult than the egr valve.

 

No it's quite simple. Just need someone to turn the key. It's pretty basic man.

You'll need a ratchet (1/4" drive is easiest cause it's smaller), an 8mm socket, a small extension (or just a deepwell 8mm), and a couple beers. You'll also need a T-20 torx bit for a ratchet as well to remove the inspection cover.

Use the 8mm deepwell (or the 8mm short on the extension) and remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to it's bracket. I usually just open the cap to relive the pressure in the coolant system, then tighten it back up (don't want coolant leaking out!). You don't have to drain any coolant. Pull on that tank towards the front of the truck and rotate the back of the tank towards the drivers side. You'll see, you can pull it right out of the way. Rest it out of the way so you can see the FICM on the valve cover. Use the T-20 bit to pull the little cover off of the top of the FICM. Pull that cover (may need a knife or flat blade screwdriver to pry it off, some of them "stick".

Now on your 05, you should see 4 screws there. Take the red lead from the multimeter and put it on the screw closest to the drivers side. If by some odd chance you have 7 screws there, find the row with 4 screws and put it on the screw FARTHEST away from the drivers side.

Place the black lead on the negative battery terminal right there. Have your friend turn the key to the on position (not running). And see what the reading is. Then have said friend crank and start the truck. Keep an eye on it while it's cranking, cause typically it'll just fire right up. You need to see around 48V at all three times, (key on engine off, cranking, and running) if it drops at all, it's going to need repairing. If it's only dropping to like 46V, it's fine, but if it drops to say 35V, you've got issues.

Any questions just ask!