Head bolts
#1
Head bolts
I have heard that you can replace head studs on at a time on the 6.0. I was also told that if you did replace head studs and egr delete you can program and not have any issues. Has anyone heard of replacing the head studs one at a time? Is this just a bad idea even if you follow pattern and torque specs? Any thoughts please respond. I do want to program and dont have any current problems with my engine.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
as long as you don't have blown head gaskets allready it should not be a problem, start from center outward then let them sit overnight then retorque, most of the times you are supposed to run studs through a couple heat cycles then retorque again, I know it will be a pain in the butt but it is worth it. I know you have heard of people replacing head gaskets more than once, not retorquing is one of the reasons, the other reason is not letting the truck come to operating temp before jumping on it, heat adds clamping force.
#4
There is no way I would go through all that trouble just to do studs one at a time. I personally think it's a bad idea, and it's not good engine building practice. If you want to do the job right, take the heads off, have them decked, pressure checked and have a valve job done, then use NEW OEM gaskets, install studs and torque her down.
As for re-torquing, that will kind of depend on the application. Your typically daily driver, probably doesn't need it. A race truck pushing over 1000hp may need it after every couple of passes. FWIW, ARP does not recommend a re-torque.
If you don't have issues now and are not planning on using a programmer anyways, I say just run it as is. My truck has always held up on stock programming. As soon as I add a tune and start leaning on the skinny pedal I have issues.
As for re-torquing, that will kind of depend on the application. Your typically daily driver, probably doesn't need it. A race truck pushing over 1000hp may need it after every couple of passes. FWIW, ARP does not recommend a re-torque.
If you don't have issues now and are not planning on using a programmer anyways, I say just run it as is. My truck has always held up on stock programming. As soon as I add a tune and start leaning on the skinny pedal I have issues.
#5
Well thanks for the replies!! I was just curious and i got a couple thought so i apprceiate that. I think i will just plan on leaving it alone for now. On a different topic my truck does not start when its cold and its really starting to **** me off!!!! I have been runnin B20 fuel so not sure if it is that or if i need glow plugs. The paper work i got with the truck said the glow plugs were replaced last year so not sure what to think? well thanks for any help!!
#7
#8
its easy to test......here's the sticky https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-p...procedure.html
and the auto parts store can test your batteries
and the auto parts store can test your batteries
#9
I am getting a little white smoke. The batteries are good. It sat for like 6 hours and did not want to start. Starting to make me crazy. Someone else has said its probably glow plugs since its gettin white smoke. Another thought was the fuel pump losing its prime? Im not sure what to do? It kinda sounds like the pump is aerating when i cycle the key and then eventually sounds smooth like it should. how do you test glow plugs? any help would be awesome!!!