Update to 6.0 2004 no power low power
#1
Update to 6.0 2004 no power low power
HI all, first I want to thank allf you for your insights and advice for this 6.0 it helped immensely to have a little back up. Thanks again! Originally this stock 2004 6.0 had been acting a little sluggish and expiriencing longer starts then it suddenly lost all power running down highwaymen at 60. After listening to tons of bad advice, blown head gaskets, bad Turbo, bad injectors,fried FICM , bad fuel pump etc etc, we determined that the EGR COOLER was to blame. Installed an EGR delete from IPR, new oil cooler, didn't need new oil pump STC fitting, so was not needed. Changed Turbo oil return line, FICM harness to new style and upgraded fuel regulator to blue spring wile we had it apart, why not.
Anyway got her all back together anxiously rolled her out the doors, cycled fuel pump 5 times no start no start no start!!!!!! Scanned with snap on no codes no start, no start, buddy of mine looked at her for two days found corroded connectors to main fuse panel under das and a lot of air in fuel lines. Got her Fired up, ohh joy, yippee!! Drove her 5 days she ran like a bat, smooth as silk. Then it happned, another no start, finally got her cranked but was running rough like a miss. Then she lost all power again nothing even floored 10 MPH, no smoke nothing just no power. Got her going after she sat an hour took straight to my buddies garage. Rescanned about every code in the book in there!! Wow! Pulled valve covers to check injectors, found one # 8 bad, but what was really bad is we found 7 rocker arm tappet head ends had long horizontal cracks, valves couldn't seat fully maybe? Anyway now in process of rebuilding heads, changing gaskets and stock bolts, running out of money so didn't do studs. What a pain it is!!
Anyway got her all back together anxiously rolled her out the doors, cycled fuel pump 5 times no start no start no start!!!!!! Scanned with snap on no codes no start, no start, buddy of mine looked at her for two days found corroded connectors to main fuse panel under das and a lot of air in fuel lines. Got her Fired up, ohh joy, yippee!! Drove her 5 days she ran like a bat, smooth as silk. Then it happned, another no start, finally got her cranked but was running rough like a miss. Then she lost all power again nothing even floored 10 MPH, no smoke nothing just no power. Got her going after she sat an hour took straight to my buddies garage. Rescanned about every code in the book in there!! Wow! Pulled valve covers to check injectors, found one # 8 bad, but what was really bad is we found 7 rocker arm tappet head ends had long horizontal cracks, valves couldn't seat fully maybe? Anyway now in process of rebuilding heads, changing gaskets and stock bolts, running out of money so didn't do studs. What a pain it is!!
Last edited by justjb50; 12-11-2011 at 06:42 PM.
#2
#3
OK I was confused about the hpop then it didn't have the STC onn it that Ford said it would with the vin, so these cracks are normal? Really? The arms are fine, just long cracks along base of heads, I will get you some pics of them. The dealer and the head guy said they are not normal that they were probably caused when egr cooler blew and water ingested into cylinders, but what do I know. Just can't understand why she ran so great then puked all over me again. Number 8 injector is definately bad though but i don't think one injector would make her just die like that
Last edited by justjb50; 12-11-2011 at 06:40 PM.
#7
Out of all 8 cylinders? Or few never thought of an injector sticking open like that, we got a good scanner buzz tested all of em found only one with a fail code , hate to think I'm getting heads redone and gaskets just for that, but i hope I end up with a strong long lasting 6.0 got 160000 pretty trouble free miles on her. Prob due for gaskets anyway, wish i could of afforded pull in cab and doing studs thougham installing black onyx gaskets with factory bolts, she's stock so should be good to go
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Been reading up, guess what? I I installed a Napa with cap oil filter when I changed the oil before first start up, and if that's been the problem I will go insane!! I , btw jut so ya know we are going ti install new style D, plugs and stand pipes in oil rails while installing heads, don't want to take any chances this time around, getting rid of that Napa filter too!!
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Been reading up, guess what? I I installed a Napa with cap oil filter when I changed the oil before first start up, and if that's been the problem I will go insane!! I , btw jut so ya know we are going ti install new style D, plugs and stand pipes in oil rails while installing heads, don't want to take any chances this time around, getting rid of that Napa filter too!!
Last edited by justjb50; 12-11-2011 at 10:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
Good call.
Don't use the black onyx gaskets if it's not too late, stick with OEM Ford. The new ford bolts come with the gaskets anyways... I'm not sure you can even order the bolts separately.
Our injectors don't really stick open like a commonrail setup. The only way to really fill the cylinder with fuel is a cracked nozzle on these, which isn't common, but it can happen.
Don't use the black onyx gaskets if it's not too late, stick with OEM Ford. The new ford bolts come with the gaskets anyways... I'm not sure you can even order the bolts separately.
Our injectors don't really stick open like a commonrail setup. The only way to really fill the cylinder with fuel is a cracked nozzle on these, which isn't common, but it can happen.
#9
What's wrong with the onyx gaskets? Not a good set up with oem bolts? I guess I should check in with you guys before I touch anything, save me some grief!! The injectors all looked good, withexception of number 8 but hpop, output good so we can't figure out why she do what she do!! I checked ficm, voltage again was 48 to 49.2 so should be Good?
Last edited by justjb50; 12-12-2011 at 08:58 AM.
#10
Voltages sound good. Are you checking under all 3 conditions though?
1) key on, engine off
2) cranking
3) running
The onyx gaskets were hot for a minute, then everyone realized they weren't the correct thickness (too thin) and now everyone is having issues with them. I would definitely stick with OEM gaskets for sure.
The heads really need to be brought to a machine shop and decked/pressure checked/magnafluxed etc.
Without decking heads, it's kind of a pointless procedure.
1) key on, engine off
2) cranking
3) running
The onyx gaskets were hot for a minute, then everyone realized they weren't the correct thickness (too thin) and now everyone is having issues with them. I would definitely stick with OEM gaskets for sure.
The heads really need to be brought to a machine shop and decked/pressure checked/magnafluxed etc.
Without decking heads, it's kind of a pointless procedure.