surging and Idle
#1
surging and Idle
I have a 2005 F250 6.0. While sitting still either in gear or in park the engin will surge from the normal 7800 rpm up to as far as 9000 and down to 6000rpm. I changed the oil and filter yesterday as well as the transmission filter to see if that would fix it but last night it did it again as well as doing it at slow speeds just above idle in the first three gears. This only started yesterday so it is something new. I also noticed when I go to start the truck I used to hear both the lift pump below me and the one under the hood that made a loud ticking noise and now I only sometimes will here the second one faintly sometimes and others don't hear it at all. The truck has 89000 miles. The truck has an automatic transmission.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
No idiot lights have come on on the dash.
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No idiot lights have come on on the dash.
Last edited by deerplow; 11-22-2011 at 05:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#2
I think you added an extra 0 to every one of your RPM's I know a few 6.0's have turned 5500rpms before, but they have also spit rods out the side of the block.
So you changed the oil and oil filter and then this happened? Or you changed it to try and make it go away?
The thing you hear under your door is the fuel pump yes, under the hood the buzzing noise you hear is the injectors. If that buzzing noise is getting weaker, you either having dying batteries, a bad alternator causing the dying batteries, or quite commonly, a dying FICM. You can get the batteries and alt tested at advanced auto. I would recommend a load test, a simple volt reading wont do on these batteries. If one is bad, replace both. You can also test the FICM, and the test procedure is at the top of this page. If it is bad, PM me.
So you changed the oil and oil filter and then this happened? Or you changed it to try and make it go away?
The thing you hear under your door is the fuel pump yes, under the hood the buzzing noise you hear is the injectors. If that buzzing noise is getting weaker, you either having dying batteries, a bad alternator causing the dying batteries, or quite commonly, a dying FICM. You can get the batteries and alt tested at advanced auto. I would recommend a load test, a simple volt reading wont do on these batteries. If one is bad, replace both. You can also test the FICM, and the test procedure is at the top of this page. If it is bad, PM me.
#3
Sorry about the extra zeros late night at work coupled with early awake due to kids and school make posting a little hard with no coffee at the time. Thanks for the input. I changed the oil and filter after it started and because it was due. I will get the batteries checked and the alternator. If those are good then I will do the FICM check that is posted on here and check the soldier joints if need be in the lab at work.
Last edited by deerplow; 11-22-2011 at 09:05 AM.
#5
#7
Ok thanks for the help . So far with the new alternator (140 amp vs 110amp) it sounds a whole lot better and appears to run better. But for those looking to upgrade you need to figure out if the truck was built before the 3rd of november 2004 or after to see if you can go with the 130 or the 140 amp alternator. That took some time to figure out but am very pleased with the 140 amp since I was built on the 4th of november 2004. I will let all know tomorrow and close this thread if the problem is offocialy fixed tomorrow afternoon.
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