When i first crank my truck in the morning it has no power and seems like it does not want to shift after it warms a little it is fine no problem at all, then after it sits at work all day it does the same thing it only started when the temp here has started geting cooler. it runs a little crapy first thing as well if i let it sit and idle for 10 or 15 mins befor i drive it then there is no problem. Do you guys think it is the FICM??

 

Hey eric i kinda have something similar. Still on going. Did you get it fixed? If so what did it turn out to be?

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by the way I have a 04 6.0 too

 

nope not fixed yet i will keep you updated. hope someone has some advice on here!

 

What engine oil? Diagnostics ran on the truck yet? Need some scan tool data while the issue is occurring to help with advice.

 

Snap on solus did a injector buzz test and it passed that glow plug test passed. The codes where a turbo under boost code and a ficm performance code

 

Have you had the scan tool on the truck when the error occurred? That sounds like ficm, but you would need to watch the data set to know exactly what is going on.

 

There is a sticky at the top of the page on how to test the FICM, you need an 8mm ratchet, a t-25 torx bit (not positive if this one is right), a multi-meter, an extra set of hands and 4 beers (2 for you, 2 for your partner).

Drink beer.

Use 8mm ratchet to remove coolant bottle from it's mount. It's not necessary to drain any coolant or undo any lines. Wrestle it out of the way, you'll see the FICM laying on the top of the drivers side valve cover.

Use correct torx bit to remove inspection cover, it's a small cover, only 2 screws holding it on.

Under there you will either see 4 screws or 7 screws. These are where we get the terms 4-pin FICM or 7-pin FICM.

Take multimeter and put the red probe on the screw closest to the drivers side fender (for a 4-pin FICM), or if it's a 7-pin, the row with 4 screws in it, put the red probe on the screw farthest away from the drivers side fender. Black probe goes to negative post on battery right there.

Have said buddy slam his beer. Then have him put the key in the ignition, and turn the key to the "run" position, but don't start or crank the truck. When it turns to run, you should hear your injectors buzz. Typically they will start slow and speed up. If it sounds like there is a "miss" to them, your FICM is probably already bad and your voltage should show accordingly. It should read 47-49 volts, typically right around 48. Then you need to read while the motor is cranking, and while it's running. It's tough to crank and not start the truck, so just have your buddy "start" the truck, and keep an eye on the meter while he's cranking. Should be 48 while cranking, and 48 while running. Drink other beer now.

If it's under those numbers at any times, PM me. I can fix it for you. Much cheaper than dealer.

The underboost code is a separate issue and we will take care of that once your truck starts better.

 

Update this morning the truck would hardly turn over think my batteries are gone would that throw the ficm code as well?

 

Yes it would. Get batteries load tested, or replace. Replace BOTH batteries, not just one. Even if one tests good and the other is bad, they should always be replaced in pairs. Start there. If it still has issues after that, then test FICM. It really only takes 15 min or so to test the FICM. That includes the beer before you start and the beer after your done

 

Thanks guys will keep u updated

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Ok guys I replaced my batteries truck starts good now but still dnt have much power first thing and seems like does not want to shift from 2nd to 3rd first thing in the morning then once it shifts it's fine after that shifts like normal. I will can the truck for codes tonight