I didn't do the last one. guess thats what I get for letting some one else help me. oh well, nothing a die grinder cant handle.

 

Good looking mod Luke!! Yep it's just that easy folks.

 

You will hate your life. I dont even do factory head gaskets in cab. nobody can convince me that its either easier or faster Have fun trying to get the back head bolts out. And unless you have a engine crane and a bracket have fun lifting those heads off.

Ive done only 1 in cab and wont ever do it again. Only because it was an ambulance body F series and the last one of those i did, i chopped the main harness for the lights and sirens with a pair of bolt cutters and forgot to splice it all back together and the gasket around the cab leaked when it rained so i wasnt allowed to ever do it again on an ambulance. Anyways your going to have almost no room to get an impact even with a swivel 18 to get the back head bolts that are on the drivers side theyre right against the fire wall, i remember bashing the firewall in with the biggest mallet i had. Then the really shitty part was breaking the air conditioning and heater core box when iwas removing that, then after zip tieing the head bolts as suggested by ford, trying to tip the heads to the perfect angle without dropping them on the frame or floor and then removing them... Good thing i blew my back out after that otherwise that ambulance would have sat for 2 weeks before it got any work done to it. Stood on the drag bar and bent over to lift em. Then the fun part is torqueing the head bolts and doing the 3 90s in cab. F*CK THAT! at least with studs your doing 70 140 210 90* run it hot then another 90*. the other guy up here pulls the engine out to do em, i can have the a/c system completely evacuated and the cab would have been ready for lift off 10 minutes before the a/c machine is done.

 

Well some of us dont have the ability to take the cab off. It can and will be done headache or not. I dont do this for a living so one time the hard way is better than running a hot tune and blowing my gaskets.

Tips or anything to help would be a lot more apreciated than saying have fun with it and your life is going to suck........

Cheers

 

So buy a crane and rip the motor out. Youll have to remove the turbo to pull the motor otherwise youd have to remove the 2 19mm nuts by the lower support and the front cab bolts and jack the body up with a floor jack and put 4x4s under the front of the cab.

Obviously youd rip the whole front end out grille, radiator, intercooler, condensor, shrouds. The other guy gets an engine out taking his time in 2 hours. Let me ask you this, what do you have for tools?

 

Taking the engine out is the hardest and most time consuming way. I've seen it done in cab a few times. It is more difficult than cab off obviously, but can be done. For the pesky bolts back by the firewall you can't get out you can just dent the firewall in with a sledge (redneck, but it's behind insulation so you'll never see it), I've also heard you can jack the rear of the transmission up to lower the motor, or undo one motor mount at a time and rock the motor to the side.

powerstroketech, why are you doing 90* torque method on studs? ARP specifically recommends NOT to do that.

 

More clamping force... until i have a come back or break a stud or some sort of failure ill keep doing it that way. Just like the STC brackets. I installed 2 in a row on a truck and had no start and air checked still leaked at pump, guess what? I dont do 5 turns in and 49 ftlbs, i just put the plastic T on and crank them in as tight as i can without the bracket turning. Been doing it that way for years now and had not had 1 hpoil concern since. Just like the CAC hose clamps. I used to clean em with brake clean and torqued em to specs and had em pop off not even under full boost I run them things in with my air ratchet til they cant get any tighter. Never had 1 break, or break 1000s of miles down the road. Just like before ford updated the stand pipes and dummy plugs, I replaced them with the LCF stand pipes and dummy plugs. Which is now what the updated 6.0 stand pipes and dummy plugs are.

I dont think pulling the motor is the hardest or time consuming. But then again i rip these trucks apart every single day. Doing it in cab. No way. Wont do it.

 

Some of us just don't have any other option than to do it in cab, but want it to get done.

You wont break the stud doing the 90* method, the block is softer than the stud. ARP has warnings right on their website about doing it this way.

I know I had ARP's put in at a Ford dealer at one point. My headgaskets have never lasted such a short time before. Needs to be done again.

If your torque angle method works for you, great, but it hasn't worked for a lot of people.

Taken from ARP's website:

The Torque Angle Method


Since the amount that a bolt or nut advances on the thread per degree of rotation is determined by the thread pitch, it would appear that any amount of stretch in a given bolt or stud can be accurately predicted be measuring the degrees of turn from the point where the underside of the bolt head or nut face contacts the work surface. Termed the "torque angle" method, this procedure has long been the standard of civil engineering. It has been suggested that torque angle is a relatively simple and valid procedure to use in "blind" installations—where it is not possible to physically measure the actual bolt stretch.

ARP has conducted extensive evaluations of the torque angle method, and concluded that – for high performance engine applications – it is suitable only when calibrated for each installation.

Our investigation has proven that installed stretch is dependent not only on the pitch of the thread and the degree of rotation, but also on the amount of compression of the clamped components, the type of lubrication, the length of the male fastener, and the amount of engaged thread. It's important to note that for the same degree of rotation, the amount of bolt stretch will be critically different between an aluminum or cast iron cylinder head, or when installing a steel main cap on a cast iron or aluminum block. Furthermore, there is a significant difference in stretch between the long and short cylinder head bolts or studs on the same head. The torque angle method can be accurate – but only if each individual application has been previously calibrated by direct measurement of bolt stretch. If you do employ the torque angle method, it's best to begin calibrating rotation from some small measured torque rather than the first point of contact with the work face. To achieve optimum accuracy, always use ARP Ultra-Torque® fastener assembly lubricant whenever possible.



Wanna do my headgaskets? Maybe I'll be your first come-back?

 

Two of my injectors are bad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


:a rgh:


Looks like i will be replacing those also. Im just putting in a new set..... RCD has got some 90hps for 1,400

 

That price is probably not for new injectors. In fact, I know it's not. You want new from Ford, and if you want bigger injectors, you pretty much have to buy new Ford and send them to a builder, or find a builder that starts with new Ford's. Now, Ford's are "remans" but they seem to be one of the only places that gets them right. Stay far away from places like Pensacola diesel and pretty much any other place that is that cheap, cause they're not new.

Now, lubeowner (famous on some of the other powerstroke forums) is offering a service to rebuild these, including freeing up sticking spool valves, which no one else does to my knowledge (maybe Ford), for $100 per injector. Jwarren is also selling some injectors from PSA and PSN, he'd be another one that should have good stuff.