Once you do the preventative measures on the 6.0 it is a good engine, very powerful and very reliable. If you do go with it the FIRST 2 things you need to do are a coolant filter by Sinister, and a gauge for the HPOP. If it has an EGR delete without a programmer it will throw codes and the check engine light, easy way to see is look on the top of the engine to the left of the turbo, the EGR cooler sits on the top side of the passenger head. If you see a square or round tube about 3" in diameter, that is the EGR cooler unless the guy went with a BulletProof delete in which case it is a factory-style cooler with the ends welded shut (which would still throw codes). Next thing would be to do a remote BulletProof oil cooler (factory oil cooler is setup the same way the EGR is) and an oil bypass filter kit (if you do like I did and go with the remote oil cooler, coolant filter and oil bypass filter good luck, there is limited space inside the engine bay of a 6.0 to mount all these filters, gotta get creative). Easy way to tell if the engine is studded is look on the front lower side of the drivers side head, if you see a nut with threads above it, it's studded, if you only see a bolt head, it's not studded. When setup properly (unlike how Ford did) the 6.0 is VERY reliable and is a torque MONSTER.

The 6.4 on the other hand is a decent setup from the factory but still has its issues, with a 6.4 delete the EGR and DPF, get a good programmer and you're pretty much done. They are very picky though which can cause big problems, you MUST stay on top of your fuel/water separator service, if not the injectors will deposit themselves deep into the engine. Can't run WVO, gasoline will make other diesels run like **** and cause a couple problems but with the 6.4 you are looking at a rapid disassemble. Not to mention in stock form they get about 1/2 the MPG that the 6.0 does at 8-9mpg.

 

okay, he said had a delete, what would a non bulletproof delete kit look like? so is the delete easy to tell? but it does need a bypass system for oil and coolant?

 

A non-BulletProof will likely just be a block off plate and a coolant return pipe. Oil bypass filtration isn't a must have but it makes it nice running synthetic and only changing every 20-25k miles rather than every 5k-7500. The coolant filter I believe is a must have because of how much crap is floating around in the coolant, if you keep the stock oil cooler in then the coolant filter is a no brainer, with the remote oil cooler it's not a must have but I prefer having the peace of mind knowing that my coolant is clean and doesn't have anything in it that could get lodged somewhere they aren't supposed to.

 

okay so basically i only have to have one or the other right off hand? and from what ive been reading the oil cooler is a must for hpop and injectors, and engine life

 

Diesel engines are known for the "long haul"!! The 6.0 had a run of , what 3 years!! It is trash. I worked as a diesel mechanic for FORD. the 6.4 is just so much better, and its not really that great. If your gonna get a Ford, 7.3 all the way. If you just want to change oil for 200k , 7.3... Please let all the 6.0 's hit the scrap yard, mechanics everywhere will rejoice. That engine is the reason that Ford and IH are not together anymore, after 30 years in the same bed. It caused so many lawsuits. I really believe that engine is going to hell for all its done.

 

The bulletproof egr cooler doesnt have capped ends I have one on my truck its just a factory reinforced cooler, doesnt throw codes delete kit on other hand will unless running SCT

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And the 6.0 has had its problems but my 06 stroker outpulls out runs and all around out performs my 07 cummins I wouldnt wish a cummins on my worst enemy 7.3s are awesome and 6.4s are completly outstanding

 

Correct, the BulletProof EGR upgrade is a redesigned setup, beautiful design that I wish Ford would have done in the first place, I have one n my truck, no complaints whatsoever. The BulletProof delete is the same thing just has caps welded up inside

 

okay this way i know if its deleted or not and if its been replaced, but to look bout studded do i look under the valve cover or not?

 

You will be able to see one (be it a bolt or stud) on the outside of the valve cover, depending on the year of the truck (mine's an '07 and there is computer **** EVERYWHERE) it may be a little difficult to see down to the heads. Have a flashlight and on the drivers side look straight down from the cap of the degas bottle, right above the front cylinder exhaust manifold bend you will see what you need to, stock is a flat top bolt, stud is obviously a nut with a stud protruding through it.

 

okay thank you, im goin down this morning to look at it and wanted to get everything straight before i went down there