A bit of back ground. I bought my truck used, an 04 F-250, for $3k under KBB 11/09. It came lifted, with a turbo back exhaust, and K&N air intake. Other than that, its stock, and to the best of my knowledge! Last night I put it up for sale, today I am regretting it... I put it up for sale cause it scares the crap out of my wallet! I don't care about the general cost of maintenance, or the fuel, or the oversized tires...its the what if she breaks down!

So, I am looking for advice, opinions, reassurance, what ever ya got! I love my truck, and want to do everything i can to keep it! So here are my concerns...

First and foremost, the head gaskets. I know the potential issues, I have 100k on it, they are holding strong *knocks on wood*! I was told the heads were studded, but the previous owner had no records. So is there any way to tell, how much to DIY it, and how long for two competent wrenches? The issue is, while I've got lots of ability, and more tools, and the ability imo to learn anything mechanical, I don't have access to a garage I can get in! Is this something two guys who've done everything to a gasoline engine that doesn't require a machine shop can do in a couple long warm sunny days in the driveway...or am I paying a tech?

Next and equally concerning is the tranny. Last spring it was acting weird. Either while shifting right before, or right after, it would randomly rev up. No increase in speed, just like hitting the gas in park! This lasted about 3 months and was VERY sporadic. Hasn't done it in about 7 or 8 months, and I saw no change in performance. She is a bit past due on the tranny service, which will be done around 3/18. Mileage was roughly 93k at the time.

I have read about the EGR valve. Mine was replaced 1/10, its going to be gone in April. Where should I get the kit to eliminate it, any pointers.

As per suggestions in other threads, a custom tuner is going in at the same time. Same questions as above!

Fuel mileage...I'm averaging about 15mpg in the winter driving 65 miles a day 24 @ 65mph, 20 @ 55mph, and 17 around town. Plus an average of 60 minutes idling per tank...does this sound right, I'm told by some its low, if so any thoughts? BTW, I'm riding on 35s...

The rest is a bit more vague, so ask for any info I don't provide. My truck is a DD and a toy. I want more power, lots. If I'm gonna keep it, I don't ever want the performance to disappoint me. So with that said, what should I do in preparation to start building. What gauges should I buy, to be properly monitoring its performance. It spends lots of time of road, and I want all the power a boy can want, while maintaining the ability to drive it daily. I wanna be able to roast $100.00 worth of rubber when the need arises... Thoughts?

Thanks y'all!

Nick

 

well first i would get a coolant filter and a good set of guages i would get fuel pressure, EOT, ECT, and Pyro. You only want to get a SCT tuner with custom tunes for the 6.0 PSD. The EGR delete and head studs are always a good idea but with a new EGR and you think you have head studs you may be good by just installing a coolant filter. I would not own a 6.0 without a fuel pressure guage and a coolant filter and change the oil ever 5K and fuel filter every 15K.

 

Maintenance is impeccable, so the oil and fuel filters are no concern.

Any gauge brand/model suggestions? I've read all over the place to stay away from gauges that hook up to the OBD...what is my best option?

 

First off Welcome to db. You're in the right place to find some good info and advice.
Secondly, I'm not a ford man and i don't mean to be critical of your truck only candid and consructive ,so here goes.
I had a friend who bought an f-250 superduty harley davidson edition. that was the best part of the truck right there. It was also a 6.0L. Stock, they can't get outr of there own wy. so enter the BULLYDOG next comes heads and new studsand heads and new studs because the replacement studs aren't strong enough either, But another guy i know gets the upgraded studs so now only the head goes bad. seems counterproductive doesn't it. Egr delete is a must because it'll be pukin coolant everytime you have a hill to climb. I don't remember all he went through with the engine stuff but i Know everytime he he tried to mod something there was something else that needed a splint because of it.Goes back to that "weakest link" thing. anyway to make a long story short,the 6.0L, IMO hasn't got any power and when you mod it it's not strong enough to hold it. He ended up getting rid of it because he was going to have to get a new engine from International which was going to cost him about $12k.
Again, i'm not a ford man and i'm sure you've heard some bad stories already or you wouldn't be thinking of sellin. I would if i were a ford man sell my 6.0L save the money i would have spent on mods and repairs, BUY A 7.3L. even if she's stock for a couple years,you STILL ended up with more power and a truck you can wrk with.

 

Eric, why not tell the whole story here!!! I warned our friends about the issues long before they became a problem, and advised them to get it fixed under warranty. Having the dealer install studs doesn't help anything as they wont deck the heads. These trucks sure do have their problems, but they are fixable, believe it! Bullydog was their first mistake... it's complete crap for the 6.0's. In fact, I wouldn't really run them on anything, there are better choices out there for pretty much every truck. They finally took my advice on getting the SCT, but what was that, 2 weeks before major failure? I'm assuming I'm the "other friend" who had studs put in right? haha. I did and yes the gasket failed again. I'd bet my paycheck when the tech took it apart again that the studs were loose from improper install. I'm back running with the SAME heads, new gaskets and stock TTY bolts again and no headgakset issues, what does that say?

New engine was also their fault. If you keep driving a truck that is puking coolant, and then adding tap water in place of coolant, things get nasty quick. I remember a nice red rusty coating on the inside of the coolant system on that truck. The tap water and leaking coolant eventually corroded valve guides to the point where valves would stick. Sticking valves make conctact with pistons, break rocker arms. Add to this equation the vegistroke, so now we're pumping some nice shiny WVO down into the bottom end of the motor... nice mix there!

You and I both know Andy well and know he's not one for preventative maintenance. Now I'm not saying that is something he should have to do, none of us should have to replace headstuds and gaskets to ensure it wont fall apart when towing, but the facts are out there, a little research and some preventative maintenance and they'd probalby still be rocking the harley truck! The Dodge was a good call for them, since he doesn't want to deal with any of these 6.0 problems and that's fine! Good choice. Great motor, rest of the truck... eh we'll see. Seriously lacking in other departments, like interior, but those are personal preference things.

Also in no way shape or form does a 7.3 have more power than a 6.0. I thought about selling my 6.0 to get a 7.3 for all of these reasons, I asked around about making 400-500hp reliably (somewhere near what my 6.0 makes with just a tuner, dyno proven), and was told to forget it. Seriously. However, getting more work done is probably true, since the 7.3 is a more reliable motor, however it's also less power, transmissions suck (unless manual), they're a FAR dirtier motor(emissions are something like 95% improved with the 6.0) and they simply don't have to deal with any emissions stuff.



WIRedneck, stick around, keep reading, you'll see what to do and what not.

First things first, lose the K&N filter, go back to stock or get an AFE setup or S&B, I prefer the dry filters myself. The K&N are just crapola. I've had lots of experience with them in the offroad world, and they just plain suck. I can't imagine how much this is amplified on a boosted motor.

First two things to do to any 6.0 is fuel pressure gauge and coolant filter.

 

Hey Mike as you read my post you will see where i said " I don't remember all he went through..." and you are not the only other PSD driver i know. I have driven other 6.0L and 7.3L sticks and autos imo 7.3l got 6's beat. Also as i said i was not trying to be critical just constructive. It's a diesel truck you shoulkdn't have to park it on a pillow evry night. No ford bashin was intended here just givig an opinion Which was asked for. Apologies WIRedneck Read up, The facts ARE out there

 

Understood! I was just clarifying all he went through for everyone! It's no secret the 6.0 has it's problems. Stock for stock a 7.3 will last longer than a 6.0 for sure, but a 7.3 also wont meet emissions standards, which is why Ford did away with it. A chipped 7.3 is NO match for a tuned 6.0. Not even close. Stock for stock they probably feel about the same, the 6.0's are complete pigs stock. They don't start moving til 4k rpms! . I know you're not bashing, it's all good! Glad to see you around the boards! Learn anything good yet? Heard the injector swap went well on the LB7, sorry I couldn't make it out for that! Next time! See you soon!

 

Mdub,

Ditch the K&N, not a problem. I will look into the options in a couple weeks, Being as though the stock set up is gone, I will either have to get a stock set up from ford or buy another set up!

Any thoughts on where/what brand coolant filter I should get? I have spent hours and hours looking at posts and parts, and it's so hard to figure out what works and what doesn't! It seems their is a lot of stuff out there for sale that is plain crap. I'm really trying to be an informed buyer!

Veggiemax,

I completely understand your opinion and feelings about the 6.0! I have the vehicle up for sale for now, if it sells for what I want in the near future, I will walk away with no hard feelings. However, I'm not willing to be dragged through the coals on it! If I'm going to lose $5k on it, I'd rather stick $5k into it and keep it!


Any thoughts on the tranny anyone?

 

HMMM... well. you could drop the stock pan and put in a deep dish pan holds more oil, Put on a by-pass fillter, another transmission cooler fan optional. You also can run it inline with your stock cooler. Torque converter, and transmission gauge. the options are endless. so you have to figure of climate, terrain, tire size and if your towing long distance or frequent. if its just a mild driver with the odd pull here and there. then bigger pan, bypass filter, and of course gauge. that should do it. But like with anything the sky is the limit. IMO keep your 6L and enjoy it sink in 5k evenly over the whole truck and you will have an awsome ride. You know you are going to get ripped on her even with a lift IMO... Good Luck and welcome to the diesel world.

 

Ghost, my truck gets used for a variety of things...I pull a boat April-Ice, once a week minimum, usually around a hundred miles. I occasionally move horses for a horse rescue. I run a small tree removal business, and side job a ton of electrical work (an electrician by trade). Plus I spend lots of time pounding through the northwoods, up and down old logging roads at least monthly! I don't work my truck as hard as some, but I don't own it cuz I'm some dumb peckerwood tryin to compensate either!