Guys they cannot void your warrenty because you put a filter bypass on ur truck. if anything you are doing a favor you are not changing anything to the truck. Prime example egr deletes, programming. If its a big concern get them to install it and there is nothing that they can do. Just like there GOLD **** coolant . But what ford doesnt understand is that the people/Company (INTERNATIONAL) that built the PDS dont recommend the coolant that is run in any PDS. Remember when you start messin with the computer that is when you get into warrenty issues. cheers

 

Change your coolant to ELC and stay away from the Ford service department.
This is my susgestion and I am sticking to it.
I use Scangauge II and Hypertech Max Energy to keep my truck updated in tunes.

Ford should be held responsible for all the coolers failures.

 

I had my head studs installed at the dealer under warranty... only problem is they don't know how to do the job right and I was back in to the dealer a few months later having them done again, this time they took the studs out for me. Some dealers just don't care, others are sticklers.

If you don't think Ford will void your warranty for such a small item, think again. It says right in our manuals and I believe right under the hood somewhere that they reserve the right to cancel warranty for ANY non OEM parts on there... they're pretty strict with the diesel stuff. Now with that said, it all depends on the dealer you go to. I wouldn't think twice about putting a coolant filter on, I've never heard of that being an issue at any dealership. You're comparing two different companies and two different issues with the coolant. Ford has not certified any of the ELC coolants for our motors...


Goose, more sheeple....

Since you're recommending to everyone to run the ELC, can you please provide some documentation to show us where it is acceptable to use that? I haven't found any yet...

Ford has fixed every cooler failure I've had on my truck so far, so what's the issue? Stay away from the service department? Not so easy for someone with a warranty, kind of leaves you with the dealer.

 

Mdub707 had my head studs installed at the dealer under warranty... only problem is they don't know how to do the job right and I was back in to the dealer a few months later having them done again, this time they took the studs out for me. Some dealers just don't care, others are sticklers.

What was wrong with your studs that they had to take them out?

BAD

 

They wont machine the heads flat. If a head is out of spec, they put a new head on. What sucks is that even new heads come in out of spec sometimes. On top of that, who knows if the tech even followed ARP's instructions on installing them. After the headgaskets failed with the studs on (which didn't take long) the dealer that did it, told me they wanted ot get the studs out and weren't going to put them in again, mostly because they didn't want to get in trouble I'm sure. I was fine with that, as they were the ones "doing me a favor"... although they failed...

Plan is to reinstall them myself and have heads decked!

 

How do you machine the block when it is in the truck? How does one fine out if the 2005 SD250 is the same as SD350 in frame ans springs? I have a 2005 Ford SD250 6.0 4x4 with camper package and tow package and want to tow a large fifthwheel toyhauler.

BAD

 

The main differences between 350 and 250 is the 250 uses 2" blocks in the rear and the 350 uses 3 5/8" blocks in the rear. So when you do a leveling kit on a 250, you need the blocks too. There are a few different spring packages based on cab size and plow prep and what not, but you'll be fine with whatever you got. Just make sure you don't go over GVWR and common sense stuff like that. I tow a 5klb 21ft TT in the summer and can barely tell the thing is there. It makes the truck ride a heck of a lot smoother, and I still don't even sit on the overload springs with that hooked up. I'm willing to bet I have more than 15% tongue weight too.


You don't.... IF you need to have the block decked, motor must come out. Most just have the heads decked though, those need to come out and off to the machine shop. That is my plan as soon as this snow melts!!!

 

I was reading on one of these forums that if the deck and head isn't machined the head gasket will leak!

 

the heads have to be flat ......it does not matter what you drive...if the head is warped you will not get a good seal on the heads...

Also you have to use quality head gaskets ....not any off shore material...

Some people just remove head ...scrap clean .. and re-install...

If the truck was over heating ...there is good chance the head could be cracked or warped

I allways remove the head and strip it down and get it crack tested and checked for flatness...

Has any body modified the heads ..ei valve job ...porting.. with results or it it better to install a tune in ......

 

The 6.0 and 6.4 heads are seriously lacking in the air flow department. This is why when we put a 66mm charger on our trucks we're lucky to get 600hp, but a duramax could make over 800 with the same charger.

Elite diesel offers ported heads, but they come with a monstrous price...

Most guys opt to go with hardened valve seats on the 6.4's, a few less on the 6.0's but some still do. You will find almost all of them are cracked, esp on the 6.4 (easier to get more power, i.e. more heat).

Decking the heads on these trucks when doing headgaskets is a MUST. You're a fool if you go through all of that trouble and don't have the heads decked.