EGR or Oil Cooler?
#1
EGR or Oil Cooler?
my truck is a f-350 6 speed, on friday the 7th of jan started having problems gettin up to speed and blowin mass amounts of white and blue smoke, i was told that is was the egr valve, egr cooler, and oil coolerand that my turbo was dirty. i looked on line and read alot about the egr delete kits (want more advice about them please) they sound like a good product and would do good for my truck adding horsepower and engine reliability. i do use my truck for pulling goose neck trailers (all types, flat beds with cars, and box), horse trailers, vehicles, and long hauls (from south dakota to indiana) for my spare job. ive also ready about the new egr coolers with the metal or aluminum tubing.. sounds alot better than the factory models. i was wonderin which would b better and how i could diagnose the problem further to possibly pin point the issue. im also looking for a place to get a quality product at a reasonable price.
#2
Before you are going to install an oil cooler(the good ones are expensive) you need to check the real temperatures in the engine..
Because temperatures like very high temperaures as very low temperatures aren't good. Especially temperatures below 176°F cause a lot of wear by friction.
So check your real numbers first.
A good sized cooler unit will take 20°F of your heat, so when you drive in the average range this can be to cold for you.
During winter I have deleted the oil cooler- it's simply to cold and not necessary.
Setrab and Aeroquip are trusted brand good enough for the pro and military.
Deleting the EGR will raise the combustion temperature during part throttle only, because around 7% more fresh air is delivered. It is simple to explain- burned air can't be burned again. During full load the EGR is closed anyway.
Because temperatures like very high temperaures as very low temperatures aren't good. Especially temperatures below 176°F cause a lot of wear by friction.
So check your real numbers first.
A good sized cooler unit will take 20°F of your heat, so when you drive in the average range this can be to cold for you.
During winter I have deleted the oil cooler- it's simply to cold and not necessary.
Setrab and Aeroquip are trusted brand good enough for the pro and military.
Deleting the EGR will raise the combustion temperature during part throttle only, because around 7% more fresh air is delivered. It is simple to explain- burned air can't be burned again. During full load the EGR is closed anyway.
Last edited by Deezel Stink3r; 01-08-2011 at 02:52 PM.
#3
thanks..so i can go ahead and get the egr delete kit and b fine.. no issues.
im not 100% sure which was wrong, they just said that my oil cooler was cloggin up and my egr valve was sticking and my egr cooler was clogged up, but it ran just fine when i drove it home from the shop cause i wanted to research and see what was wrong before i paid the price they said i had to. as far as i know..i could only have to change one thing..
im not 100% sure which was wrong, they just said that my oil cooler was cloggin up and my egr valve was sticking and my egr cooler was clogged up, but it ran just fine when i drove it home from the shop cause i wanted to research and see what was wrong before i paid the price they said i had to. as far as i know..i could only have to change one thing..
#4
#5
#6
modern oils are designed to keep particles enclosed in the oil, not allowing them to cover nocks and crannies.
What kind of oil do you use?
I change every 6000miles (syn oil and factory recommandation) and the oil pan is so clean that you could eat of it.
Have a look into the intake manifold, too(Check for soot).
What kind of oil do you use?
I change every 6000miles (syn oil and factory recommandation) and the oil pan is so clean that you could eat of it.
Have a look into the intake manifold, too(Check for soot).
#8
EGR or Oil Cooler?
Oil cooler clogging is a common problem on the 6.0. It is what causes you egr to fail. Take a look at the ford 6.0 sub section.
#10