Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels

Banjo Bolts?? Has anyone BOMBed these Yet?

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  #1  
Old 06-13-2010 | 02:46 AM
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Default Banjo Bolts?? Has anyone BOMBed these Yet?

I have been reading up on this and it sounds like a pretty simple Mod. Or you could just get some 6.4L banjo bolts from Ford, slappem in yer 6.0L and make this happen too.

Has anyone done this??
Any Pros/Cons to doing this Mod?
 
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Old 06-13-2010 | 08:14 AM
conner's Avatar
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News to me. Are they larger diameter than 6.0's
 
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Old 06-13-2010 | 10:48 AM
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I bought the ebay ones a while back and put them in. It's more a peace of mind type thing. You wont notice anything. The stock setup uses check valves and they're very restrictive. You're just putting in a hollow bolt with larger supply holes to eliminate the restriction. You wont notice anything, but it will keep injectors alive longer with more fuel. If you upgrade injectors and fuel pump later on you will WANT these. You can get the large 3 hole bolts on ebay, like I did, or go to your local ford dealer and get the 6.4 bolts.
 
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Old 06-13-2010 | 05:14 PM
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I read in an earlier post that this could be and alternative to stage 1 fuel system purchase. Any Ideas on that?? I just got my truck in May so I am not ready to be throwing alot more $ at it just yet, but anything simple that could extend the life alittle would be a plus.
 
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Old 06-13-2010 | 06:57 PM
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Mmm i dont think it could be an alternative to a stage 1 fuel system but im not for sure. The 6.0 banjo bolts have check valves in them...the 6.4 bolts dont, so basically just better flow to the injectors. Good upgrade on the stock fuel system, longer life for the injectors.
 
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Old 06-14-2010 | 12:52 AM
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"Fuel systems" for a 6.0 are a joke. Don't waste your money. Just do an Airdog2 and these bolts, and you will have your "fuel system".
 
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Old 02-24-2011 | 05:09 PM
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Default Banjo bolts

Hey guys, Has anyone thought about why you need to upgrade banjo bolts on the return fuel line??????? if everyone is saying that Fuel PSI is so important why would giving the return line more flow do? Just a thought IMO waste of cash just to lower your PSI and doesnt increase flow to the injectors. Your fuel goes into the fuel rail near to the fire wall and exits the front near the rad.....
 
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Old 02-24-2011 | 06:05 PM
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The Cummins guys do the same thing on the 98.5-02 24 valve trucks. There was a thread posted somewhere that showed how to drill them out. I upgraded with the aftermarket ones. Can the check valves be removed from the 6.0s bolts?

Also (a little off topic), what is fuel pressure supposed to be? Notes from my OASIS show mine was running around 52psi. I read there is a spring mod, but there is some debate on which way to go. Can someone point me in the direction of a thread that'll get me the correct information?

Sorry for the minor hijacking ... back to you, Cowboy Cadillac!
 
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Old 02-25-2011 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mdub707
"Fuel systems" for a 6.0 are a joke. Don't waste your money. Just do an Airdog2 and these bolts, and you will have your "fuel system".
Yep
 
  #10  
Old 02-26-2011 | 07:40 PM
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Default Banjo Bolts, Blue Spring

All of the above are completed. Just bought my 06 F-350 and all though it was in excellent condition i would feel comfortable with flush and new LV in her belly. While at the dealer I bought the fuel psi upgrade and the banjo bolts. Here's a run down and thanks for all the help from this site that made it go well.

Fuel psi (blue spring) install- I was able to complete this task by myself and only remove the air filter and dis-connect the intake end of the up pipe. I left the intercooler end connected but loose and rotated the pipe out of the way enough to get at the regulator assembly. I was not able to apply psi to the radiator hose and work at the same time. So I took a small rope and tied it around the radiator hose,. looking to the ground below the radiator hose I could see a clear shot to the floor. I dropped the rope to the groud, went behind the torrsion bar and pulled the rope. This pulled down the radiator hose. When I had enough clearance I tied it off to the tow hook on the front of the truck, worked great. Then the hard stuff was over and the spring was replaced.
Banjo bolts- had to remove the up pipe to get ot the driver side bolt and got on it from there with a 17mm box end. Removing the bolt was the hardest part and would have been easy if the radiator hose was removed. I was able to get it but it took some finageling. The passeneger side was easy to get and didn't remove anything. Whole job approx.2 hrs from driving into the garage to driving out.
 


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