How do I remove injectors on a 6.0 liter?

 

pull the cab.

 

which one do you need to pull? you need to be able to get to the valve cover and pull it off. then pull the stand pipe out of the oil rail and pull the oil rail. then pop the connector out of the head and then use a t40 or t45 (depending on the year) long torx to remove the hold down for the injector. you dont need to pull the cab. the drivers side injectors are even and passenger side is odd.

 

So it is possible to replace injectors with the cab on? from looking at my engine compartment i figured it would be but didn't know for sure.... i have an 05. the drivers side looks like a bit more work than the passengers side. and to get this right the drivers side is even and passenger's odd, are they numbered from the front(Radiator) of the truck to the back(firewall) 2,4,6,8 driver side 1,3,5,7 passenger side? i keep pulling up a code for cylinder 4 contribution/balance and it won't go away so i believe that injector is shot if i'm wrong please let me know before i tear into this beast and waste my time doing the job and my money on an injector i don't need...

 

well its a good thing its #4, and yep thats the second one back on the drivers side. thats the easy side. it could be your injector or just a spool valve on the injector. when does it trigger the code. can you hear it run rough. if it only does it in the morning when its cold then it could just me a sticking spool valve but you still have to get to the top of the injector so either way you will have to pull it apart.

 

Why do you say its a good thing??LOL.that side has more stuff around it? Coolant resv., ficm, and other things.... seems it looks more difficult to acess... maybe i'm wrong. but the code will trip at different times and won't go away for a while... sometimes it'll trip after a cold start then stay on there even after the engine has been at running temp for a while.... could it be the injector harness chaffed? i've heard of that happening but don't know if it applies here? inthe mornings my cold starts are brutal. and when at running temp at idle sometimes i can feel like a slight vibration for a second maybe, then it stops for a second, then it vibrates again, then it stops and so on. i don't know if this has anything to do with this problem but figured i'd share just to be sure. if the problem is my spool valve sticking is that something that can be fixed or do i buy a new injector?

 

o no the drivers side is way better. just drain the bottle from the bottom of the radiator at the valve untill the bottle is empty. while its draining pull the intake and the ic pipe from that side. once the coolant is low enough where its not gonna spill everywhere pull the clamps and hoses off of the bottle and take it out. then pull the ficm and there is just a bunch of open space. you can actually work on it. as for the problem i dont think its a wire. i would replace the whole injector.

 

Sweet but the price of injectors is crappy one i replace that injector should i gain a good bit of power and fuel milage back, and have better cold starts? Also do you know if it's possible to do studs with the cab on?

 

it is but its not quite with the cab on. you have to take everything off the front like grill all the coolers, radiator, etc and then you can pull the bolts on the cab and jack up the front enough to get a couple wood blocks under there to get enough clearance to put the heads back on with studs on there. you will see if you end up doing your injector. look at the back of the drivers side head.

 

damn that sounds like alot... do you have to remove the head to replace them? i was thinkin take old out and put new in? do you know about what the average is a shop would charge to do it?