Anyone than can shine some light to what’s going on? It starts acting up after it’s been running/driving after a good 30minutes, delay when going into Reverse and in Drive, hard shift, and idles rough

 

Download ForScan to a smartphone
Get the appropriate ELM32 adapter for your device
Read and post codes

 

Also - tell us what year truck you have.

 

2004 Ford F-250 6.0

We plugged a snap on scanner and it read no codes

 

With nothing else to go on other than the delayed/hard shifts and running rough, I would take a stab at :

Broadcast Message 1586/SSM 17874/18051

Harsh or Delayed Forward or Reverse Engagement: This could be caused by a sticking line pressure control (PC-A) solenoid. Typically the line pressure will be fluctuating wildly (up to 500 PSI!). To service, first remove and inspect the external cooler line filter. If it contains fine gray metallic debris. If metal is found, the source is most likely a defective reverse planetary pinion shaft that is coming out of the carrier and contacting the case or adjacent components. The transmission will need to be disassembled and repaired as needed or replaced. Broadcast Message 3250

If little or no debris is found replace the line pressure control solenoid (PC-A or EPC solenoid) with P/N 4C3Z-7G383-AA. Broadcast Message 1586/SSM 17874/18051

This repair will require removing the solenoid harness, so a new harness sealing o-ring (P/N 3C3Z-7Z276-AA) will need to be installed. In some cases the solenoid body will need to be removed from the trans to remove the harness and solenoid. In this case the solenoid body gasket (basic P/N 7C155, trans tag number needed) will be needed as well. Note: Do not loosen the 10mm head bolts on the solenoid body. Only loosen the 8mm head bolts. If the solenoid has been replaced and the condition it still present, suspect a contamination issue of the solenoid or a sticking pressure relief valve.

Others have fixed a delayed shift with an upgraded manual valve:
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4448-manual-valve

 

I’ve had 2 mechanics telling me my torque converter was failing so it will needed a full rebuild

 

The external cooler line filter is it the one located underneath the passenger side by the radiator?

 

Then the snap on probably doesn't read transmission codes well. I can't believe that it would need that extensive of repair without throwing a code.

IDS and ForScan are the most thorough code readers. ForScan will read all transmission codes. I would download that to a smartphone for $10 and get an adapter and check for codes with that.

Also, the Sonnax valve and EPC solenoid aren't all that much money. I might be tempted to just try that - unless you really trust the shops you took it to. problem is the expense of the transmission fluid, but the Valvoline MaxLife isn't quite as bad as the SP and LV.

https://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm...od/prd1310.htm

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...id-4c3z7g383aa

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...3775/8150020-P

Yes, that is the location for the external filter. If that has not been regularly serviced, then you could have extensive issues. These transmissions need VERY clean fluid and the internal filter is not a fine enough mesh to work very well as the only means of filtration.

 

Ok I can easily try checking the filter and plugging the Forscan in it first

 

Best price for the external filter:

https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...iesel-n-a-4789

I usually get the Motorcraft one, but this NTZ is the same filter .... AND, you get the o-ring with the NTZ filter. It is separate if you buy the Motorcraft filter.

These are the only two filters I would recommend.