I recently changed out my injection control sensor at it was throwing the code. Now, my truck runs fine, idles @ 560ish. I hear the injectors cycle properly and fast which is expected. The truck runs smooth, however, it does seem to be a tiny bit low on power and the idle seems to be a bit lower than before I changed out the injection control pressure sensor. I have an EGR delete, Atlas tune from Ed @ FICM repair, Sinister coolant filter, and cat deleted.

Some interesting things here.
My FICM volts during start up via Tuner Pro RT = 48v
ICP is over 500 upon starting so it starts fine, however idle seems a bit low
In Tuner Pro RT, I get only the P0263 code.
I connect my Blue Driver OBD scanner (supposed to be very good for pulling all codes) and I get P0263 and 0281. Cylinder 1 and 7.
I also get both codes with Car Gauge Pro.

I connect the Car Gauge Pro app and I am supposed to be able to do an injector Buzz test, but my buzz test is incomplete.
The program will buzz the injectors for the initial buzz, however, that's all that happens. The buzz test normally will get all the injectors to buzz through a cycle, then go through a single buzz for each of the 8 injectors. Mine is not going thorough the individual injectors. The Car Gauge Pro app buzzes all injectors and then says "unknown code, please wait" and nothing happens.

What should I do from here?

 

So, I go out and start the truck up, clear the codes to see if I can do a buzz test. Turn the truck off, nope! Buzz test starts, I hear the initial clicking, then I get no more noise, phone says unknown error code.

Watching my rpm's, the rpm's rune between 620-730 rpms and it does sound like it's missing a tiny bit. Other than that, the truck seems to run fine for now. I gotta fix this soon and it's pissing me off not giving me a definitive answer other than P0263 & 281....also P1000 which it pretty much always has shown.

Help! Please

 

Can you tell if during the time that all of them are "buzzed" if 1 and 7 are being buzzed at that time? You can try using a hose to listen through at each injector location.

Also, you can unplug #1 and #7 and repeat the buzz test to see what happens.

You are sure that the FICM end plug is in securely?

If none of that works, you may just have to pull the valve cover.

 

Oh, and I am assuming that FICMrepair.com upgraded your FICM (which may be true or not).

 

Thank you for the reply! Yes, I did have the "Repair" and upgraded tune from Ed @ FICM Repair about 6 years ago.

Here is the interesting thing. I never had any problems with such codes. I had to change out my ICP regulator a few months ago. Once I swapped it out, the truck ran great, however, if I was in Idle and I blipped the throttle, the idle would act kind of funny and get below or around 500 rpms, then come back up to 700ish...but it took a few seconds.

Tonight, I went out and started the truck, idle sounded perfect. I connected Car Gauge Pro and ran the codes. I cleared them earlier today. The code that came up was not the P0261 & 281 but now I only get p0275 (cylinder 5) now??? WTH? Same injector bank, different injector. I'm wondering if some sort of wiring problem is going on. The crappy thing, I SUCK @ wiring issues.

I"m guessing it's either a wiring problem or a FICM issue. FICM via torque pro when injectors cycle and also engine starts is 48v

Thanks for the help!!!

 

As far as the buzz test, I did it a few years ago and I had no problem. Now, I only get the initial multiple clatter as if when you turn the KOEO. No sequential buzzes 1-8 at all which tells me something is not right. What, I'm not sure. However, with the new cylinder 5 balance code and no cylinder 1 or 7, I think it may be a wiring problem or FICM not seated properly. Just talking about it, I suspect some sort of wiring issue since it started after I had replaced the injection control sensor. I was suspecting that I got a sensor that was working but also defective. I don't wanna do that again since I have an 03...the IPRV and sensor are in the back on the drivers side. I would love to kick the engineer in the teeth for that one!

I have so much going on it's crazy. I'm waiting for new F21 turbos and cylinder head repair for my audi 2.7 twin turbo project. About ready to assemble a 400whp daily driver, starting to finish that project on Tuesday Can't wait to finish her!

In the mean time, looks like I need to tear into my F350 and figure out if this is a wiring problem I'm just not sure where to start with the wiring after inspecting the FICM. I never touched the passengers side bank of wires, only the drives side to get to the IPR and IPR sensor. One more thing, when the truck is idling, if I blip the throttle, idle drops down to around 500rpms and sound like it's struggling for about 2-3 seconds, then recovers to normal idle. It's never done this before the IPR sensor swap.

And to top things off, I'm in quarantine for 2 weeks because my wife was diagnosed & admitted yesterday to the hospital for CV-19. 2 weeks off of work does allow me for working on my car and truck, but man, seems like I'm putting out fires else where, let alone worrying about what the cost is for her being in the hospital for who knows how long? Can't wait till this whole whirl wind of problems and projects end!

TY for the help!!!

 

Seems like you are getting more response on FTE. I will post over there.

VERY sorry about your wife. I know things must be stressful on the whole family.

 

Yea, it sucks but I"m sure she will be fine. Her temp was getting way too high, 103.9. She feels like crap but she's stable. We are just waiting till tomorrow to start an experimental drug that was used for the ebola study. The kids are doing fine, we talked to them about this who media caused panic. Thanks for the concern

Hoping to get under the hood of the truck today.

 

I"m using both boards, both are my GO TO

I was able to install Forscan on my andriod and I got a successful buzz test. I did the fuel bowl bubble test, no bubbles.

I cleared the codes again and no codes have surfaced since I did the buzz test, cleared the codes and then let the truck run for 15 minutes.

 

New OEM sensor, problem solved!