New to me 6.0L, drowning in info
#1
12-15-2018 | 11:00 PM
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Joined: Dec 2018
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New to me 6.0L, drowning in info
I just bought a 2007 6.0L with 161K miles on it. Seems to be completely stock. Down to the headbolts...currently there are no issues with it and the trans shifts "slow" but feels just like a stock truck. The truck had a 5th wheel in it at one point so its a bit of mystery at the moment.
I used to own a 7.3L and worked on my buddys 6.0L excursion so I feel comfortable with the 6.0L but have just done basic things maintenance-wise. I already priced cab off installs at two local shops for head studs and headgaskets. The shop I would go with quoted me about 20hrs of labor and around 2K$ for labor. I have access to a lift on base so I am contemplating doing it myself, I work nights so I have 4 days during the week I can do this type of repair in. I am going in the next couple of weeks to have a shop do a full diag. of the truck but at the moment I don't know what my injectors are lookin' like; she starts right up every morning (in the bitter cold of Nebraska) and it runs really good and does not look like its been modified.
Problem is theres a billion different "solutions" for the 6.0L and I am looking more of a performance based buildup of the truck with street manners that a fleet mechanic would be proud of. My power goal is in the 500-600hp range which I think is about all the 5R100 can hold without mods I would guess. I don't beat on my trucks, I'll be daily driving this truck and towing less than 5K lbs. maybe twice or three times a year.
I just need some direction on what is bullshit and what isn't when it comes to EGR/Oil cooler setups. I looked at the bulletproofdiesel stuff and it looks pretty but who the **** cares if it isn't fixing the problem. Also I am not sure a air-oil cooler is as efficient as a air-water(or coolant) setup that it has stock. And from the fleet mechanics I talk to the coolant filters are pretty much BS and their recommendation is to run ford gold coolant and flush it once a year at least. So far the only thing I have ruled out is running Sinister Diesel stuff and IPR setup. I like some of the offerings that Dieselsite and bulletproof offer but I am trying to figure this out.
Alright so I'll break it down since I'm rambling:
1. Should I delete my EGR? If so what is the best kit to run? (food for thought emissions is not an issue in my state)
2. Should I create a Oil cooler kit using the bulletproof diesel block off plate (DIY) or keep the stock oil cooler from ford or run the BPD kit?
3. Does deleting the EGR mess with the turbo oiling or draining? I heard it mentioned before but I have no idea I've read way to much **** at this point
Performance Questions:
4. What turbo and injectors would you recommend for a 400-600hp power level keeping in mind if I do studs I am doing injectors and turbo all at the same time
5. Is everyone running SCT or is there a better tuner? I am hoping for shift on the fly but I realize how that could be unreliable (I had a superchips tuner for my 7.3L because of the transmission tuning it did but power was low.)
6. Is the BD diesel throttle booster bullshit? Can I just tune that out with a SCT tuner?
7. Is there a better alternative to FASS or Airdog inline fuel pump/water seperator? (to me they seem a bit on the pricey side for the power level I am thinking of)
Are there any build threads I should check out? (on forums not magazine sites...getting tired of bullshit snake oil articles hocking air intakes and exhaust as picking up +100hp with no data to back it up)
ALright I'll stop. First post and already I'm an askhole...
I used to own a 7.3L and worked on my buddys 6.0L excursion so I feel comfortable with the 6.0L but have just done basic things maintenance-wise. I already priced cab off installs at two local shops for head studs and headgaskets. The shop I would go with quoted me about 20hrs of labor and around 2K$ for labor. I have access to a lift on base so I am contemplating doing it myself, I work nights so I have 4 days during the week I can do this type of repair in. I am going in the next couple of weeks to have a shop do a full diag. of the truck but at the moment I don't know what my injectors are lookin' like; she starts right up every morning (in the bitter cold of Nebraska) and it runs really good and does not look like its been modified.
Problem is theres a billion different "solutions" for the 6.0L and I am looking more of a performance based buildup of the truck with street manners that a fleet mechanic would be proud of. My power goal is in the 500-600hp range which I think is about all the 5R100 can hold without mods I would guess. I don't beat on my trucks, I'll be daily driving this truck and towing less than 5K lbs. maybe twice or three times a year.
I just need some direction on what is bullshit and what isn't when it comes to EGR/Oil cooler setups. I looked at the bulletproofdiesel stuff and it looks pretty but who the **** cares if it isn't fixing the problem. Also I am not sure a air-oil cooler is as efficient as a air-water(or coolant) setup that it has stock. And from the fleet mechanics I talk to the coolant filters are pretty much BS and their recommendation is to run ford gold coolant and flush it once a year at least. So far the only thing I have ruled out is running Sinister Diesel stuff and IPR setup. I like some of the offerings that Dieselsite and bulletproof offer but I am trying to figure this out.
Alright so I'll break it down since I'm rambling:
1. Should I delete my EGR? If so what is the best kit to run? (food for thought emissions is not an issue in my state)
2. Should I create a Oil cooler kit using the bulletproof diesel block off plate (DIY) or keep the stock oil cooler from ford or run the BPD kit?
3. Does deleting the EGR mess with the turbo oiling or draining? I heard it mentioned before but I have no idea I've read way to much **** at this point
Performance Questions:
4. What turbo and injectors would you recommend for a 400-600hp power level keeping in mind if I do studs I am doing injectors and turbo all at the same time
5. Is everyone running SCT or is there a better tuner? I am hoping for shift on the fly but I realize how that could be unreliable (I had a superchips tuner for my 7.3L because of the transmission tuning it did but power was low.)
6. Is the BD diesel throttle booster bullshit? Can I just tune that out with a SCT tuner?
7. Is there a better alternative to FASS or Airdog inline fuel pump/water seperator? (to me they seem a bit on the pricey side for the power level I am thinking of)
Are there any build threads I should check out? (on forums not magazine sites...getting tired of bullshit snake oil articles hocking air intakes and exhaust as picking up +100hp with no data to back it up)
ALright I'll stop. First post and already I'm an askhole...
#2
12-17-2018 | 10:20 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 299
Likes: 26
From: DFW Texas
I am going to answer some of your questions concerning the head gasket, egr, and oil cooler.
On the injectors, turbo, and fuel system, I would recommended getting with a custom tuner of your choice and talking to them about what they would recommend. Because, you won’t be running off the shelf tunning, you want the parts you choose here to be parts that tuner is comfortable with.
As as far as egr deletes. You can order the kit of your choosing as long as it has a replacement up pipe and not just a block off. XDP has a decent one and it’s reasonably priced. The other option is to get a welded up intake manifold and a complete replacement y pipe with vibrant bellows. However it is pricey. But it eliminates some potential failure points.
Going back to reasonable pricing, the XDP “solution kit” is pretty reasonable for what all is in it. I’d suggest to go with the ford headgaskets and cooler version of that kit for a simple all in one kit. But it’s up to you.
A stock replacement cooler is fine. The bulletproof air to air is a cool kit. But damn it is pricey. You can replace a few ford coolers for that money.
My opinion as far as coolant goes, flush, flush, flush, flush, and keep flushing until the system is clean as a whistle.
Then my preference is the red coolant rather than ford gold.
I have had really good success with red coolant and a clean cooling system, as far as not clogging another oil cooler.
Some guys swear by a coolant filter. If you flush the system well and run the red coolant, I am of the opinion that it is not needed. However they are not expensive. Your call. Keep in mind the ones I’ve worked with all bypass around the filter if it starts to clog up. While that’s a good thing for staying on the road, that also means that it’s not filtering when it’s bypassing. Your cooling system requires maintenance no matter what parts you run. A cooling system flush and replacement of that coolant is part of the maintenance.
Im out at a side by side race this morning and typing this between rounds. So I apologize if I didn’t touch on every point. I’ll try to get back on later and try to pick up the rest.
On the injectors, turbo, and fuel system, I would recommended getting with a custom tuner of your choice and talking to them about what they would recommend. Because, you won’t be running off the shelf tunning, you want the parts you choose here to be parts that tuner is comfortable with.
As as far as egr deletes. You can order the kit of your choosing as long as it has a replacement up pipe and not just a block off. XDP has a decent one and it’s reasonably priced. The other option is to get a welded up intake manifold and a complete replacement y pipe with vibrant bellows. However it is pricey. But it eliminates some potential failure points.
Going back to reasonable pricing, the XDP “solution kit” is pretty reasonable for what all is in it. I’d suggest to go with the ford headgaskets and cooler version of that kit for a simple all in one kit. But it’s up to you.
A stock replacement cooler is fine. The bulletproof air to air is a cool kit. But damn it is pricey. You can replace a few ford coolers for that money.
My opinion as far as coolant goes, flush, flush, flush, flush, and keep flushing until the system is clean as a whistle.
Then my preference is the red coolant rather than ford gold.
I have had really good success with red coolant and a clean cooling system, as far as not clogging another oil cooler.
Some guys swear by a coolant filter. If you flush the system well and run the red coolant, I am of the opinion that it is not needed. However they are not expensive. Your call. Keep in mind the ones I’ve worked with all bypass around the filter if it starts to clog up. While that’s a good thing for staying on the road, that also means that it’s not filtering when it’s bypassing. Your cooling system requires maintenance no matter what parts you run. A cooling system flush and replacement of that coolant is part of the maintenance.
Im out at a side by side race this morning and typing this between rounds. So I apologize if I didn’t touch on every point. I’ll try to get back on later and try to pick up the rest.
#3
12-17-2018 | 11:12 AM
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