bismic1 all ready tried that and it's good to go fills up and holds till i let go. when i got it to star first time was before i put tuner on it. put tuner on and it want start back up. checked everything had a couple of bad oil rings on injectors fixed them put it back together tried to start it again and realized my dum butt forgot to prime it again. Guess that's what I get for trying to be in a hurry to get this truck running. But it's only vehicle I got and it's been down almost three months now. Just can't figure it out

 

Well the DB site locked up on me, I had put together a lengthy post with details. Unfortunately, it is now gone.

I will get some of it typed back out. But Bismic may have to help fill in some details if I'm not here to answer questions. I don't get a chance to log on here often.

If you can scrape up $20-$30 then you can get a decent obd2 to wifi dongle that will communicate with your iPhone. Then go on the app store and download "OBD Fusion"
There are tons of apps out there. That one is just the one that I prefer on ios/iPhone. Once you connect it to your truck, it will give you the option to purchase the Enhanced Features for your truck. That will give you specific info for your truck and not just generic obd data. That will cost about $10.

Then you can get all of the data that Bismic and I would use to help you.

With that data, we can point you in the best direction. Without it, we have to just start doing physical tests and hoping we find a problem. You could get lucky on the first test or you could go through them all and still not get an answer. Some things really do require having a scanner of some sort or a big pile of spare/new parts.

The following is copy and pasted from a post I made on another site with some of the physical tests. This was for a guy with a different issue on an 03 engine. So some of it may read a bit odd. But the tests are the same. Though some of the connections are different. Concerning the air test listed below. Since you replaced your IPR. You should be able to cut it up and make a test fitting out of it. For $8-12 you can get the fitting on amazon.


On the physical side, the first one I would do is the bubble test. Its fast and its simple.
Remove the secondary fuel filter and leave the cap off and the filter out. Cycle the key to fill the fuel filter housing. Remove the key from the ignition. Use the starter bypass wire on the passenger fender to crank the starter for 30 seconds, longer if you're willing to risk overheating the starter. Watch for air bubbles rising in the fuel filter housing. If you have air bubbles, then you have a leak on your o-rings. Other things can cause this, but that's the most common reason.
If you do not get bubbles, repeat the test. Then once the starter has cooled, repeat again. Sometimes it takes several times.
If you ever get bubbles, it is a fail. There should be zero air bubbles to pass.
If it fails, you can unhook the feed line to one head and cap it off. Then retest. Then repeat with the other head. This will tell you if the leak is on the drivers side, the passenger side, or both.

Balloon test follows the bubble test. Unhook the fuel lines between the fuel filter housing and heads. Put a balloon over each line. Crank the engine in the same manner as the bubble test. If the balloon pulses. The most common issue is that you have cylinder pressure making it past the copper washer and the bottom o-ring on an injector on the corresponding bank.The other possibilities are a cracked injector or head.
If there is a fail then proceed as follows. You can isolate the cylinders by removing all 3 glow plugs on the offending bank and repeating test. Note if any pulses are present and move the glow plug to the next cylinder and repeat. Do all 4 cylinders on that bank.

Next would be an air leak test.
I remove the IPR and have a fitting I can connect in order to pressurize the entire HP oil system. If you do not have the necessary fitting, then you can order online or you can hook into the HP rails under the valve covers with commonly available fittings.
If you have the IPR fitting then you do not have to remove the valve covers until you have heard a leak on one side or the other. Remove the CCV on the drivers side and the oil fill on the passenger side. Hook up shop air to the IPR adapter and listen for your leak. Once the leak area is identified, you can go through the effort of removing that valvecover.
If you do not have the IPR adapter, then you are needing to get under both valvecovers anyway. Though if you have an 04.5-07 engine, you could test the passenger side by hooking into the ICP sensor port.
Again, any leak is a fail.

While not recommended, I have done this one in a walmart parking lot to help an old man out.
If you have no way to air test it, your next option is to remove the valve covers and start the truck. Try to observe as much as you can and see if you can spot a leak.
This test may not allow you to spot your leak, but, if its bad enough it may show.

 

This is a screenshot of my PID layout on OBD Fusion. You can easily and quickly change the PIDs they have in their layout, but will only be able to view 6 at a time with the default layout. If you resize the gauges and tighten up the spacing, you can get a ton more on one page. You can also leave the gauges larger and have multiple pages. I like having mine on one page and then I can do a simple screen capture or a screen capture video to playback later.

 

well while taking it all back apart i did find some errors that i did wrong and fixed them. as i was starting it my buddy thought he would use propane to help start it up it went loud pop (sound like mini bomb went off are gun shot) hope we didn't mess anything up. it happen when i turned key on.