I'm stuck and not sure which direction to go next...
I have a 2003 F-250, 6.0 diesel with just over 300k
The EGR has been deleted
It was running great until (I think but didn't know at the time) the turbo let loose on the highway, oil started dumping into the exhaust and smoking bad. I was running around 65.
Towed it home, found the IPC and the glow plug harnesses were leaking a little and the IPR was toast.
I replaced IPR and glow plug harnesses and fired it up.
It started within a few seconds but was still smoking and oil poured out of the exhaust and it didn't shut off when I turned off the key.
After some research I replaced the turbo with a new stock Garrett
Now it still fires right up but smokes just as bad, it's not as dark and blueish as it was before replacing the turbo and it has a diesel smell.

Here is a link to it as it is now.



My dilemma now is:
Could the turbo dumping oil cause the injector(s) to go bad, they have around 100k on them since all were replaced?

Could it be bad fuel / filter; it's set for 6 months while I've been working on it.

Did I damage something when it ran away? It ran away for less than 10 seconds and didn't hit the rev limit or get hot.

he basic Scan tool shows P0267 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low and P0683 Glow Plug / Heater mod Comm Problem


I'm out of money and time and need the truck back running to haul some things...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated...

 

I would pull the glow plugs and do a compression check.. sounds like you may have a bad cylinder.. should have 300psi..

 

Yeah, I think that's my best next step.
Do all 8 glow plugs need to be out to test or just the 4 on the side being tested?
What's the best way to turn the engine over, unplug the fuel pump and crank with the key on or leave the key off and jumper the starter to battery?

I tried to run a Buzz test with Car Gauge Pro yesterday after work, it would buzz once then throw an "unknown error has occurred" message on the android screen; i'll try to run the test again and post a video.

I'm worried that it has some damage past the injectors but it's throwing me that it starts within 2-3 seconds. I thought it would take a long time to build enough pressure to start with a bad cylinder...?

 

I would pull the starter bypass wire on the passenger firewall and jump it to the + battery to crank the motor. try shooting a video of that and see how it sounds.. this will tell you if you have a base engine issue before diving into injectors..

 

After several failed attempts to get time to check compression, work, kids back in school, band, soccer...
A friend found a 2004 engine from a wreck with 128k miles on it for $2200; a local shop quoted $1200 labor plus between $200-$400 for fluids, seals, ETC for a complete swap.
It arrives Monday at the shop, I'll stop by and go over it with them before they start. If it still has the EGR we'll move the delete from my engine.
How difficult will it be to tell if the new engine has ARP studs when looking at it on the pallet? Can they be swapped without pulling the heads or should I go ahead and replace the HG and check the heads; how much should I expect that to cost?