built 6.0?
#1
#2
A few things should really get done. I would even say recommended.
-arp head bolts
-egr cooler upgrade or delete
-fuel regulator blue spring update
-some even update the fuel system to a FASS pump system. Stock system can run poorly in time and wreck the injectors.
-some even put an external oil and coolant filter. But the coolant filter is top between the two
-if it has stock exhaust, throw in a 4" turbo back exhaust
-GET a pyro meter
Engine maintenance is truly important on these trucks. You should do oil changes at NO more the 6k miles. And at the 3k miles change the oil filter. Run 5W-40 synthetic and use the arcoil additive (9100 series I believe) along with the oil. Will help to keep healthy injectors. And fuel filter, if it is still stock, change them both at every oil change too.
Make sure batteries are in good shape and are strong. Any moment batteries are showing weakness, change them. You ll save your ficm and in turn the injectors. Also check and make sure the alternator is running strong too.
How you drive it is important too. With the pyro meter, DO NOT go over 1250F for more then a few seconds. It's ok if you reach initially 1400F or more but just don't hold it there. Don't push over 1600F. If you don't follow these your asking for head gasket problems. These trucks are prone for these, and more so if you running a tuner. I wouldn't increase the power more 60-80hp with the tuner.
Hope you don't mind the advise. Follow this, you can push up to many more miles.
-arp head bolts
-egr cooler upgrade or delete
-fuel regulator blue spring update
-some even update the fuel system to a FASS pump system. Stock system can run poorly in time and wreck the injectors.
-some even put an external oil and coolant filter. But the coolant filter is top between the two
-if it has stock exhaust, throw in a 4" turbo back exhaust
-GET a pyro meter
Engine maintenance is truly important on these trucks. You should do oil changes at NO more the 6k miles. And at the 3k miles change the oil filter. Run 5W-40 synthetic and use the arcoil additive (9100 series I believe) along with the oil. Will help to keep healthy injectors. And fuel filter, if it is still stock, change them both at every oil change too.
Make sure batteries are in good shape and are strong. Any moment batteries are showing weakness, change them. You ll save your ficm and in turn the injectors. Also check and make sure the alternator is running strong too.
How you drive it is important too. With the pyro meter, DO NOT go over 1250F for more then a few seconds. It's ok if you reach initially 1400F or more but just don't hold it there. Don't push over 1600F. If you don't follow these your asking for head gasket problems. These trucks are prone for these, and more so if you running a tuner. I wouldn't increase the power more 60-80hp with the tuner.
Hope you don't mind the advise. Follow this, you can push up to many more miles.
#3
Also get gauges, if your not gonna get a tuner display. Along with the pyro, get fuel pressure gauge and even some put a volt meter, to keep an eye on the batteries and charging system.
One other thing that good to inspect once a while is the ficm output voltage. If it is running under 45volts, you should replace it or get it repaired. This can weaken you injectors too.
One other thing that good to inspect once a while is the ficm output voltage. If it is running under 45volts, you should replace it or get it repaired. This can weaken you injectors too.
#4
thanks for the good info. I ordered my gauges 2 days ago, should be here in a week or so. I was crawling around underneath and saw a trans temp probe but the previous owner cut the wire and took the gauge, would I need to replace that probe for good measure or can I just reuse it? what are some signs I would be able to see to know if any of the above modifications were done already. again thanks for the good info
#5
So the trans temp probe, well generally all probes have the same resistance, but you risk running into putting a gauge that is adjusted to a certain probe with its specified resistance, if it makes any sense. And it may not be accurate. So I wonder if you can see which company has built it or find out by the previous owner. So you can match the gauge with probe by the same company. But for how much more is to buy a gauge with or without the probe, I personally it's not a whole lot more and you get a garentee that it ll be accurate.
So to see if it's been mod
-arp bolts, you can seen on the cylinder head, just below the valve covers, a stud with an Allen key shape whole on top of the stud with a 12 point nut. But if not, the originals is just a bolt with a 6 point head.
-egr cooler upgrade, well they are pretty tough to see if it's been upgrades. But the originals are a bit scare but as too some of the updated coolers, but some are round, if so then it's updated The cooler runs along the intake manifold on top of the engine. It runs along the passenger side of the intake. Picture below.
But if it's a delete then The cooler won't be there.
-fuel regulator update. Some shops mark the fuel regulator with a blue paint marker. The regulator is on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine. But if a guy has done it himself then, then there is no way knowing but it's it's a cheaper and easy part to change. Here's a pic.
-fuel pump, it's pretty obvious, if the fuel filter housing/pump that along the frame rail on the driver side is gone and replaced with a pump with a external fuel filter.
-coolant filter is generally at the front passenger side of the engine bay
It's blue there in the pic or some others are similar to that
-external filter, if you see another filter beside the coolant filter at the same location it may be the oil filter. But also you'd see this too, follow the line and you'll find the external oil filter
-the exhaust upgrade, if the catalytic converter there, the exhaust maybe stock. But the big thing is the stock exhaust has a 3" or so down pipe but it's best to run a 4" down pipe and through out the system. This lower your egts. Here's an example
.
So to see if it's been mod
-arp bolts, you can seen on the cylinder head, just below the valve covers, a stud with an Allen key shape whole on top of the stud with a 12 point nut. But if not, the originals is just a bolt with a 6 point head.
-egr cooler upgrade, well they are pretty tough to see if it's been upgrades. But the originals are a bit scare but as too some of the updated coolers, but some are round, if so then it's updated The cooler runs along the intake manifold on top of the engine. It runs along the passenger side of the intake. Picture below.
But if it's a delete then The cooler won't be there.
-fuel regulator update. Some shops mark the fuel regulator with a blue paint marker. The regulator is on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine. But if a guy has done it himself then, then there is no way knowing but it's it's a cheaper and easy part to change. Here's a pic.
-fuel pump, it's pretty obvious, if the fuel filter housing/pump that along the frame rail on the driver side is gone and replaced with a pump with a external fuel filter.
-coolant filter is generally at the front passenger side of the engine bay
It's blue there in the pic or some others are similar to that
-external filter, if you see another filter beside the coolant filter at the same location it may be the oil filter. But also you'd see this too, follow the line and you'll find the external oil filter
-the exhaust upgrade, if the catalytic converter there, the exhaust maybe stock. But the big thing is the stock exhaust has a 3" or so down pipe but it's best to run a 4" down pipe and through out the system. This lower your egts. Here's an example
.
#6
Wow! That is some good info. I guess I will be doing a bit more crawling around to see what I can see. Thanks again for all of this. I will post results of what I find when I start looking, and then start working on a build list. I'll be on a very tight budget so I will want to do the most important first and go from there.
#7
Cool I'm glad to help. I'm working on a fleet of these 6.0l, and it's nice when you can figure out what to and not to do. Unfortunitely with these 6.0, they had a lot of problem, but nothing that can't be fixed and everything almost has an updated part to improve the motor. Lots of people curse these engines, and I do to (the engineering aspect) but once you know, then they ll work nice for a long time. Personally I'm a cummins fan, but just something about the 6.0 engine sounds and exhaust sound and power band, I just love. They make me think of old 2 stroke engines , which I love too.
These engine can haul once done right and treated right. Basically like anything out there that should be treated. Nothing is invincible.
These engine can haul once done right and treated right. Basically like anything out there that should be treated. Nothing is invincible.
#8
Yeah, they definitely do have a bad rep. I was scrolling through some of the threads on here and just about every one of them is about something not working right. I also like the Cummins. I was driving an 05 5.9 and I loved it. Most of the guys on here on the Cummins side of the page were always coming up with different interior and exterior style mods (I guess you can call them that) and a bunch of homemade diy projects, you had the occasional HELP! MY JUNK WON START! Hahahaha