I am about to throw in the towel. I am out of ideas and not sure what to do next. Just replaced my head gaskets. Everything went smooth for the most part. But now I can not get the truck to run right. So far it has a new IPR vavle, new FICM harness, HPOP was replaced in November, all PIDS are good. 48v for FICM, HPOP pressure is good, ICP voltage is within spec. Ran buzz test on injectors and they passed. Replaced the FICM harness today and she ran great when I started her up. Fired right up and actually had power! I thought I had this thing beat. Then once she warmed up it was like someone flipped a switch. Absolutely no power, and runs really rough and misses. I doubt its a HPOP leak because the truck will fire right back up when warm. I keep getting contribution / balance errors but they are random and clear when cold. They never stay on the same cylinder but prefer to like cylinder 5 and 2 the most. Never get more than 2 at the same time. Today I had #2 contribution error reset then it was #5. I am at a lost what would do this. My injectors where perfectly fine before I did the head gaskets. I put new o rings on them and polished the spool valves. I have had the valve covers back off and no rods or bent and no damaged rockers. I am at a lost. I can't afford to take it to Ford and have them dick around with it just throwing parts at it. Right now I couldn't even drive her to Ford. Truck will not go over 1000 - 1500 rpm while in drive. Revs fine in neutral and park. I was going to check fuel pressure but got to get an adapter. Nobody seems to carry metric fittings, everything is sae around here. Going to have to order one. I have the blue spring too and shes fine when she is cold. What do you guys think.

 

Are you getting boost readings? make sure the map sensor hose is hooked up to the intake right behind the alternator, this hose gets left off often and it will run like poop

 

Map is good. When it is cold, it runs like it should builds boost and has plenty of power. But once it hits about 120f it falls flat.

I replaced the #5 injector which has been the most problematic. Now I am getting a contribution / balance code for # 3. Could of my injector went bad while changing the gaskets. I pulled them out, laid them on my table with the push rods and rocker arms them put new o rings on them and re-installed them.

 

I let the truck cool off. Started it back up. Ran great and smooth. Check codes and have a contribution code for #4. It cleared and didn't come back. I let the truck idle and watched the EOT. The second it hit 120F, not 119.9 or 120.1, but 120.0F the truck started to miss and run rough. It was like a switch was flipped. Checked codes and now I have one for #6. Every time this happens, it starts at 120F exactly. Is there any sensors or programming that go off temp that would affect the injectors or fuel? It seems to exact to be mechanical. Could the FICM be messing up even know I have 48V constant while the truck is running or while reving?

Wanted to see if it is temp related so I let the truck sit while I went and took a shower. Came back out. EOT was at 118. Truck fired up ran great. Watch the EOT climb and once it hit 120 again, boom, started to lope and miss again. Checked codes, #4 and #6 this time. Started to think in the shower. Correct me if I am wrong, but when the vehicle is cold it dumps more fuel to warm it up faster, correct? What if 120F is a set point to trim the fuel back so when it hits that it starts to starve on fuel. Going to go find an adapter tomorrow for my fuel gauge. Probably going to have to buy the harbor freight kit. I know they have the m12 x 1.5 fitting I need. There are only 4 things I can think of to cause this. HPOP problem which usually is temp related, a bad FICM, bad injectors, or low fuel pressure. I know my FICM is good by the voltage, shouldn't have any HPOP problems, new pump back in November and it starts fine hot and pressure builds correctly. That leaves bad injectors which I am suspicious of since they were find before the build and low fuel pressure. We'll see tomorrow.

 

unplug the oil temp sensor once and see what happens, now the fan will come on full force but lets see if it could just be the oil temp sensor, it is the one just to the left of the oil filter if I remember correctly

 

Well if I unplug the right one, haha, gray plug with 2 connections? Nothing changed when it was unplugged vs. plugged. Do you have a pic of it. To the left of the oil filter straight down?

 

Checked the fuel pressure, holding steady at 60-65.

 

Sounds to me like your injectors are getting tired it runs better when it's cold because the oil is thicker, when was the last time you changed your oil? Have you ever tried archoil9100? And just because the FICM is getting good voltage doesn't mean it's not failing causing erratic running of your injectors I've had them put out good voltage but run rough or not start at all and change them and be fine now I'm not saying go out and spend 600 bucks on a new one I'm just saying don't rule it out yet.. But it sounds to me like spool valve issues on the injectors

 

If you put a new injector in cylinder 5 and having issues with cylinder 3 switch them and see if it's still cylinder 3 that would tell you if your having injector issues or electrical issues or something else

 

Well I am getting contribution code on #5 now. So I am definitely thinking electrical or oil. Oil was changed before I started the truck after the head gaskets. Used t-6 and had some hotshot laying around so I put it in too. Every time I start the truck now, I get a different contribution code. So far just today I have gotten, 1,3,4,5,6 contribution codes. And it just started to take a while to fire and build HPOP pressure. Was firing right up hot or cold now it is taking while to build hot or cold. Once it hit, pressure goes up to 2500 and comes down to 600-900 once the IPR relieves the pressure. Might of damaged an oil ring last time I pull the oil rail. But my rough idle / missing / lack of power has not changed. I am leaning more towards electrical because wires were exposed on #5 injector plug. Maybe they shorted together and damaged the FICM? I am getting sync on the FICM. If i have it repaired it will be through Ed and I will have him put Atlas 40 on it too.