ford 6.0 lifter failure
#2
Here is a link to a youtube video showing just that. Currently I have 201,000 miles on a stock PSD and giving thought to having a new create engine put in.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
That should read crate not create engine
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
That should read crate not create engine
Last edited by bkmac; 11-19-2013 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#4
Wonder how much proper oil and maintenance have to do with cam or lifter failure? And if rev x or other friction modifiers help or hurt the situation. I'm sure there are a few units with a small defect or heat treat off but the majority of these motors are very durable after egr and oil coolers are addressed.
#5
I have 275k with no issues, I have 2 motors that I bought for little $$ and one of those had a failed lifter, it was caused by over revving after down shifting while towing. when the valves float the lifter smacks the cam hard. remember the valve float is not only the valve, it is the lifter and push rod that are not in contact the whole time. the weight of the lifter,pushrod,rocker arm,and valve influence valve float at high rpm. the fix is to use stiffer springs to keep valve float down.
#6
Great insight, bobfbigman!
Do you have an idea of what happens to spring tension after:
100,000 miles of running a stock motor with a stock tune?
running the rpm's up above 3500 RPM for an extended period of time?
I'm wondering how it might be possible to predict whether a motor is at risk of valve float.
Do you know what the stock spring tension is for both intake and exhaust on the 6.0?
I've heard it's possible to do valve springs with heads intact, using compressed air; you know whether this can be done on the 6.0?
Do you have any recommendations on manufacturer and part numbers for improving the valve springs.
I've spent some money on upgrades in an attempt to eliminate the highest risk issues from occurring. I'm wondering whether it's a good idea to replace my valve springs as a safety measure. I only have 110,000, but if I push the tuning (and RPM's) I might also be pushing my luck.
Do you have an idea of what happens to spring tension after:
100,000 miles of running a stock motor with a stock tune?
running the rpm's up above 3500 RPM for an extended period of time?
I'm wondering how it might be possible to predict whether a motor is at risk of valve float.
Do you know what the stock spring tension is for both intake and exhaust on the 6.0?
I've heard it's possible to do valve springs with heads intact, using compressed air; you know whether this can be done on the 6.0?
Do you have any recommendations on manufacturer and part numbers for improving the valve springs.
I've spent some money on upgrades in an attempt to eliminate the highest risk issues from occurring. I'm wondering whether it's a good idea to replace my valve springs as a safety measure. I only have 110,000, but if I push the tuning (and RPM's) I might also be pushing my luck.
Last edited by bustedknuckles; 11-21-2013 at 01:45 PM.
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