Hey guys:

Just wondering what your opinions are about the state of my engine. I'll post some pictures of the crank and cam sensors and the oil pan drain plug.

2006 F-350 6.0L, crew cab, 4WD, dually. Amarillo Package. 98,421 Miles.

Situation:
*7,500 miles past my oil change.
*Bad EGR Cooler.
*I drained the oil and put a screen on top of the drain pan to catch any metal...there wasn't a lot.
*Truck died while cruise was set to 65 MPH.
*Would crank, but not start...no RPM's as the crank sensor was bad. Replaced, and now have RPM's
*Cam senor code showed up, so I pulled that out...had metal chips all over the magnetized end. Cleaned it off and reinstalled it. Code came back, so pulled it again. Again, it was coved with metal chips.

I have had problems with this truck since literally the day after I bought it used from a Ford dealer. They replaced injectors 3-8 under warranty. The truck only had 59,421 miles when I bought it 8 1/2 months ago. About 2 weeks after they replaced the injectors, the FICM went and they would not cover that under warranty, as it wasn't an internal engine component. But, they would put a new one in there for $1,000. Then about 2 months ago truck died while on the expressway. Had towed to dealer and they diagnosed a bad IPR, which it wasn't, then said the STC fitting was bad. Replaced fitting and truck ran ok. That little ordeal cost $1,587.35 at the dealership!

Just wondering what the best guess is, as to what has failed internally. I'll tear it apart in a couple of weeks, but would like to know if there is anything in particular that I'll need to pay attention to while I'm doing this project so I don't do this

 

Did the engine make any abnormal knocks, squels? ticks.. I would say you may have lost a bearing, in a rod or crank, but hard telling. If you take the pan off you will find alot more out alot faster..

 

Ouch,,, that much metal I would say the oil pump gears are shot, all that metal is probably from a failing lifter, when they g bad they tend to wear the cam down too.

 

It made a VERY, VERY slight ticking noise, but was so quiet I had no idea what it was...only heard it after moving into passing lane where I was right next to the concrete median.

Do you guys think this block is reusable without me spending a fortune? Or should I try to come up with almost $5,000 for a used engine? Also, my oil was about a gallon low somehow.

Also, the engine sounds like it has no compression. I pulled the oil fill cap and cranked it and could feel the push and pull of the pistons. We tried WD-40 in the intake, but bit still would not fire.

And most importantly, thank you guys for your responses.

 

You gonna feel a push a pull from the crank case which is a decent thing the big concern will be the blow by from the gases withing the cylinders. Block is reusable as long as you do not have anything within the block missing. WD-40 is not gonna start a diesel but Ether will but if you use it wait several mintues after the wait to start to cool you glow plugs so they do not ignite the ether and explode the glow plugs. But the truck will not start without 1000 psi of high pressure oil, If you where a gallon low it could cause a no start. But with that much metal you have a internal issue and untill you find out where those metal shaving came from it will be a crap shoot with guessing. If you cylinders are scored and worn they will have to be machined and over bored and you will have to rebuild the engine.

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Also what code did you have?? I will not be able to answer anything else untill tomarrow night since I do not have a way to get on here while im at work. But im sure bobfbigman can take care of ya too.

 

First code was 2617 Crankshaft Position Sensor. Mechanic at the dealership in Madison, WI replaced that. He then tried to start it, to no avail. That's when he tried to start it with the WD. Today I put used the superchips tuner to pull codes and got 2614 Camshaft Position Senor. That's when I pulled that sensor and found all the metal stuck to it.

This all happened as I was towing a 4,000 +lb camper to Washington state, by the way.

I'm making the assumption that I keep getting that code due to the fact that when I put the sensor back in, it is almost immediately covered in metal particals.

 

bearing material is not magnetic,, a lifter can fail at anytime but it seems more common when in tow mode and it downshifts causing the engine to over rev.

 

Thanks guys. I'll tear it apart in a few weeks and report back.

 

I believe the 6.0L have hydraulic lifters if im not mistaken? but with that much metal you will have to clean all oil passages and flush the oil cooler so you do not jam a piece of metal where you dont want it or block and oil passage to a crank journal. But look at the lifters and cam. If all it did was ruin a lifter or lifters then thank god, but I doubt it was somehthing simple. Keep us posted!

 

these motors have hydraulic roller lifters, what happens is the roller fails and then you have a busted piece of metal against the camshaft causing a wiped cam lobe, you will also have the tiny roller bearings in the oil pan and can easily get into the oil pump.