I got a buddy with a 2003 f250 6.0 ,truck died while driving. He canged the lower fuel filter roadside thinking he ran out of fuel.
I hooked up my laptop and got some codes, but the battery died before I could write them down.
The code I thought relevant were low ICP pressure, truck showed 4 psi while cranking,and no oil pressure detected codes. I couldnt get the codes written down before my laptop died.
I noticed an aftermarket oil filter cap and opened it, It had a tall aftermarket cap with a ford filter(says right onthe cap to not reuse old cap).
Canister was bone dry, I had buddy crank truck to see if any oil entered the canister with the cap off and nothing. It would seem to me the low pressure oil pump gave out, or maybe the pick up came undone.
Is this a cab off repair? What would a shop charge to RandR the LPOP? Is there any other possibilities that would cause this to happen?
Thanks Bryan

 

There is a plunger at the bottom of the filter housing you have to hold down to get the housing to fill with oil, you can either use a screwdriver or even use just the filter and push down and have your buddy crank it over to see if it fills up.
I would never take it to a dealer to do a LPOP,or any other work for that matter. You can get a pump at parts store for $90 and it would take half a day to put it in yourself.
You are on the right track, there are a very few things that can make it quit while driving, oil pressure, either high or low pressure pumps are the most likely.

 

One more question, When I cranked the motor with the oil cap off I didnt push down the drain plug,should I still see oil coming in the canister, or does the drain valve need to be blocked for oil to enter the canister?

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Sorry I didnt see your post before I asked my last question, Thanks

 

damaged 6.0 lpop - Bing Images
If you were to see damage like this with those long lines/needle bearing marks/ then the repair is going to be alot more. The only needle bearing in these motors is in the lifters, and replacing one requires the head to come off plus the cam would most likely be screwed. Luckily most times it isn't that bad, just a small piece of something gets inthere enough to screw it up, it doesn't take much damage to keep it from working.

 

Owner called today, catastrophic failure.shop he took it to found needle bearing fragments in the oil system(not sure which part of the system). They reccomend putting in a long block. They say to try and clean engine of all metal debris would be a 50/50 shot of it working.
He got quoted 10000 for long block 3000 for R+R using his old turbo. Long block has all updated parts for 6.0.
Do you think the old turbo may have contamination from the needle bearing?,and is this price about average for this replacement?
Thanks Bryan

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The shop also said the camshaft retainer bearing is the part with needle bearing and the bearing should be serviced every 100000 miles, by removing the front cover. Is'nt the gear and retainer on the back of this motor? And shouldnt this bearing with stand the life of the motor? I couldnt imagine having to remove trans or motor to get to a supposedly servicable bearing.

 

They don't know what the hell they are talking about, the needle bearing came from a lifter, the picture that is linkd in my previous post will show you what the oil pump will look like, once the bearing hits the oil pump the motor will die in about 10 seconds. Perfect time to do upgrades with studs, new head gaskets, new oil cooler rebuild,
the heads have to come off to pull the lifters, if the cam isn't too torn up it can be reground or you can get a used one that is in good shape/a new cam is $500/
All the parts ought to be just under $1500 and add machine work for heads,surfacing and valve job and you will be good to go.

 

I talked to the shop earlier, it was the owner who got some wrong information about the cam bearing being serviceable through the front cover. The shop wants to put an 6.0 long block with "all" the upgrades. long block is remanufactured by Jasper for 10000. I called ford and got a quote of 9600 for a NEW long block. If it was me ,and I was going to replace the motor, I would get the ford and upgrade the head studs. I can;t see spending 10000 on a remaed motor.
Bob, your ides sounds best, just a matter of finding a reputable shop that is up for the job.

 

You can buy a used complete motor, turbo and all for $5k all day long, plenty of good ones out there, no way would I buy a brand new one for a 2003 truck, there are shops around here that sell rebuilt long blocks for 5k, a motor change can be done in about 3 days in a do it yourselfers garage.